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Thread: 1851 "Colt" base pins

  1. #1
    Banned Bucks Owin's Avatar
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    1851 "Colt" base pins

    I think I know the answer already, "make a wall hanger out of it"....

    But I was just curious if the base pin in a brass framed 1851 Colt replica .44 can be tightened up for another 1,000 rds or so....(That's what it took to shoot it loose..)

    This is an "inexpensive" (rather than "cheap" LOL) Italian copy and I tried centerpunching around the pin which worked for a very short while...

    Any hope for this sixgun or is it a paperweight now?

    Dennis

    BTW, it's only fed about 20 grs of "real" FFG with a .451" RB...
    Last edited by Bucks Owin; 06-18-2006 at 08:42 PM.

  2. #2
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    montana_charlie's Avatar
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    Bucks,
    Checking the Colt 1851 Navy information in my NRA Guide to Firearms Assembly, I don't find any part called the "base pin". Are you referring to the "cylinder pin"...meaning the shaft which the cylinder rotates on?

    It appears to have an associated part which inserts above it in the frame which either locks it in, or keeps the cylinder pin fron rotating. That small part is called the "cylinder pin lock pin".

    Is it possible that this second part is missing from your revolver?

    If both pins are available, and inserted...and the assembly is simply 'shot loose' because the brass frame has stretched, the only advice I can think of is to resort to some kind of 'adhesive' to semi-permanently anchor the cylinder pin into the frame.

    Substances such as Acraglas, Black Max (I think it's called), and the more aggressive forms of Loc Tite come to mind.

    Heat can usually be used to break the bonds of these substances if you ever want to disassemble the piece.

    BTW, Bucks...I sent you a PM a few days ago. Did you get it?
    CM
    Retired...TWICE. Now just raisin' cows and livin' on borrowed time.

  3. #3
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    Bret4207's Avatar
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    IIRC there's been reference to making bushings for the cylinder pins and there supposed to be some fix, (I think it involved a hammer), for the brass framed jobs that streched. Maybe one of the SASS or Re-enactor sites has the fix?

  4. #4
    Boolit Mold
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    You might try J.B. Weld. I had pistol in same shape. I unscrewed the cylinder pin and slathered the threads with J.B.Weld and reinstalled in frame.

  5. #5
    Banned Bucks Owin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sray
    You might try J.B. Weld. I had pistol in same shape. I unscrewed the cylinder pin and slathered the threads with J.B.Weld and reinstalled in frame.
    I thought of doing that, maybe even heating the frame a little bit for good penetration of the JB....Did it work pretty well?

    This pin is now loose enough to wiggle in the brass frame...From what I gather, it's a normal malady for brass framed 1851's after several hundred shots...

    Dennis

  6. #6
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    Hell, if you're going to put some heat on why not solder the damn think back in there say like with low temp silver solder?

    Joe

  7. #7
    Banned Bucks Owin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StarMetal
    Hell, if you're going to put some heat on why not solder the damn think back in there say like with low temp silver solder?

    Joe
    Don't know how!

    But that idea sounds like the best yet and shouldn't be too hard huh? Now to find "low temp silver solder"....Gunshop?

    Dennis

  8. #8
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    Denis,

    Brownells has it and so does NAPA dealers. The temp is right around 400 F something, just about like regular solder but it holds better. I just recently done a barrel sleeve so don't worry about it ruining the temper or anything. Clean your parts up really good with some solvent like brake cleaner. Make sure you use the flux that comes with the solder. I believe the flux is sulfuric acid or similar.

    Joe

  9. #9
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    montana_charlie's Avatar
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    A couple of days ago, I did some Googling to try to find more information on your particular problem. I didn't find any repairs for a loose cylinder pin but, another problem which pops up when brass frames start to stretch is...there gets to be so much room inside the frame, the cylinder gets too far away from the hammer...and it won't set off a cap any more.

    Might be you are nearing that point, too.
    CM
    Retired...TWICE. Now just raisin' cows and livin' on borrowed time.

  10. #10
    Banned Bucks Owin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by montana_charlie
    A couple of days ago, I did some Googling to try to find more information on your particular problem. I didn't find any repairs for a loose cylinder pin but, another problem which pops up when brass frames start to stretch is...there gets to be so much room inside the frame, the cylinder gets too far away from the hammer...and it won't set off a cap any more.

    Might be you are nearing that point, too.
    CM
    No, don't think the frame is stretched, just the pin loose IN the frame. The barrel gap is still like new but the pin is wobbly. I've read that this is not an uncommon problem in inexpensive Italian replicas....

    Also the barrel wedge seems to need it's slot widened slightly to tighten up more securely. (As long as the B/C gap doesn't get too tight...

    I'll check out NAPA next time I go to town...

    If that doesn't fix it I'll Brasso it up real purty and make myself a $60 wall hanger! (And tell everyone it belonged to Clint Eastwood in the "spaghetti days"....)

    Thanks,

    Dennis
    Last edited by Bucks Owin; 06-27-2006 at 11:30 PM.

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master
    Mk42gunner's Avatar
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    What about tightening the base pin a half turn and lengthening the slot for the wedge pin?
    If all else fails look at it as a learning experience and hang it on the wall. Remember these replicas aren't that expensive and it is not worth bodily injury.


    Robert

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Here's your fix...

    If the pin is loose in the brass just clean, degrease and set in with acra glass. Then when the wedge loosens up...

    Drill and tap the front of the pin for a 10-32 set screw. Then you use the set screw to set the wedge tightness and lock tite the screw in place. To re tighten just heat the pin and turn te set screw in a little.

    This will give you some more life to yor dead horse. I am assuming this is a 44 as the 36's don't seem to shoot loose as often. The best remedy is to shot a light charge in these brass guns, although the steel ones shoot loose too. I remember reading that Hardin owned a Colt so loose he had to hold the cylinder back with one hand while he pulled the trigger with the other.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master shooter575's Avatar
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    KCSO,That is a great idea.Sorta killing two birds with one idea!
    If shooting,fixing,making and thunking were easy.Everyone would be doing it.

    There are four types of homicide: felonious, accidental,
    justifiable, and praiseworthy.
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    Jim

  14. #14
    Banned Bucks Owin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KCSO
    Here's your fix...

    If the pin is loose in the brass just clean, degrease and set in with acra glass. Then when the wedge loosens up...

    Drill and tap the front of the pin for a 10-32 set screw. Then you use the set screw to set the wedge tightness and lock tite the screw in place. To re tighten just heat the pin and turn te set screw in a little.

    This will give you some more life to yor dead horse. I am assuming this is a 44 as the 36's don't seem to shoot loose as often. The best remedy is to shot a light charge in these brass guns, although the steel ones shoot loose too. I remember reading that Hardin owned a Colt so loose he had to hold the cylinder back with one hand while he pulled the trigger with the other.
    Excellent post amigo! I can see that you've had some experience with these guns, and yes mine is a .44.....

    Thanks again!

    Dennis

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