I have a roll of lead free solder from Kester. I am trying to figure out what the composition is. The web site states it is 97/.2/.8/2. Does anyone know what this means? I have some soft lead and thought it might work to harden it. Thanks.
I have a roll of lead free solder from Kester. I am trying to figure out what the composition is. The web site states it is 97/.2/.8/2. Does anyone know what this means? I have some soft lead and thought it might work to harden it. Thanks.
97 tin
the other numbers are antimony,copper,and either silver or indium.
don't matter though as they will be far too small of amounts to matter.
call it a lb of tin.
Not likely to be any indium in there. The small numbers in that Kester alloy are antimony, copper, and silver. The percentages are so small that for casting alloy additions it doesn't matter which is which.
Use it as if it were pure tin. Good luck!
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Taracorp sells a 95/5 Tin/Antimony under the Dutch boy flag that is ideal. Fergusons and other plumbing outfits have it.
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Thanks for all the replies! Think it would be safe to use to up the tin content in my lead?
Greg
If I were unsure of the tin content of the mix that I have already cast into ingots, how should I judge whether I need to add tin or not? How much? Again, thanks for all the info.
Tin lowers the surface tension of the alloy. If you are not filling out the mold well with
rounded corners even though you seem to be hot enough, then add a bit of tin and
see if the mold fills out better. If so, that was the problem.
Bill
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
It's great to have access to a forum that responds so well to a novice's questions. Thanks for all the replies.
Greg
MtGun44 gives good advice above.
You may not need to add tin to your current batch of lead alloy. Make sure you'r doing everything right-- pre-heating the mold, etc, etc, then cast up a few dozen bullets. If the cavity fills-out well and the edges are sharp, and you're gtting the diameter you wish, then you do not need to add any tin.
If you don't get good fill-out, and you struggle with getting good pours even though you're doing everything else right, then add 1/2% tin to the melt and try casting again. If that doesn't do it, add another 1/2% tin. Often only a half-percent addition will do it. With some stubborn molds and alloys, you may need to add as much as 2% tin to get good fill-out. More than 2% tin is usually unnecessary.
Best of luck!
I believe WILGEN's reply can be applied more broadly. I believe the no-lead solders you find in the plumbing depts at Lowes and Home Depot are 95/5 tin/antimony. For some reason these solders are not required to list the ingredients on the package. If somebody knows otherwise I would appreciate an authoritative correction.
95/5 will be listed out if that's what it is. Most of the stuff at Lowes and Home Depot is not 95/5 it also has some trace copper in it, probably not a big thing, if you want true 95/5, if you have a Menards get it there, they have both. That's what I do for boolits and solder to use (yeah, I know blasphemy) as I like 95/5 better than the "newer" composition lead free solders.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |