I was casting some 311008's when the wooden handle came loose.
Any suggestions for an adhesive or something to hold it in?
I was casting some 311008's when the wooden handle came loose.
Any suggestions for an adhesive or something to hold it in?
Buckbeans
I have used the Red High Temp silicon caulk to fix several loose Lee 6 gang handles
Never had one loosen up after the treatment
Not a lot needed
John
And I carry a LOADED Hell CatYea, thou I walk through the valley of the shadow of death, I will fear no evil; for thou art with me; Thy rod and thy staff, they comfort me.
I found some high-temp epoxy at the local Lowes that has worked just fine for several handle repairs. I think it was a JB Weld product.
I find using J B WELD products good.
Thanks to all three Gentlemen
Back to the hardware store!!!!
Buckbeans
I used Gorilla Glue to repair a split handle and stick it back on. Almost two years and holding.
I've repaired several cracked and or loos handles with two part epoxy. The high temp would be good.
With cracked handles I push in ample amounts of epoxy then push the handle back on. In at least one case I wire wrapped the broken wood to hold it's shape until the glue set. Epoxy will squeeze out through cracks in the wood gluing them up fine. I've never had to do one twice. With lee handles it's a good idea to drill a hole and pin them on.
I have some Lyman handles that I used J-B Weld on about 20 years ago. They are still holding on solid.
NRA Endowment Life Member
Pull the loose handle off and drop into the handle hole two or three toothpicks or a wooden match that is sharpened with a pocketknife. Slip the tang back into the handle hole and push tight. Then with a mallet/hammer tap the end of the handle to drive the tang as far in as it should be or was to start with. Its not a totally forever repair, but will enable you to keep casting until you get to the different choices of adhesives, epoxies etc, if you want a more permanent bond. LLS
One thing that will work even better than JB weld as far as temp range goes is Permatex Ultra-copper RTV silicone, it works for exhaust connections on turbochargers that often operate in excess of 1300 degrees. It makes one heck of an adhesive, too.
Off topic, but speaking of silicones, if your rearview mirror keeps falling off the windshield in summer heat, quit using the little specialty kits for gluing them back on and just use a matchhead-sized dot of CLEAR RTV, like the kind used for resealing aquariums, press the base mount on hard to squeeze out as much as possible and hold in place for 24 hours with masking tape, remount mirror. Hint: Don't screw up the location, you'll likely break the windshield trying to remove it!
Gear
I use RTV Silicon too. I didn't have any Red, so I used the Blue gasket maker. It works great. I guess since I'm a Lee guy I should have bought red huh? lol You can also order the Lee six cavity replacement handles and tap them on. The part number is SC1165. They are $2.00 each. http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/cata...921.5756=90005
US Govt mantra: If it's moving tax it. If it's still moving regulate it. If it stops moving subsidize it
thanks I havent broke any yet but now can fix when it comes up...
Crabo
Do not argue with idiots. They will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.
Looks like there are a lot of options out there
Le Loupe... I don't why I didn't think of that while I struggled with the 50 or so bullets I made with a loose handle
Buckbeans
Another user of the red high temp gasket sealer...... Have reworked all my handles using this and have not had a problem since....
I tried some of the hi-temp stuff, but it doesn't work any better than just plain 'ol Elmer's wood glue. ..geo
N.R.A. Life Member
The old timers used sodium silicate (water glass). I bought mine at the drug store years ago. Easily followed up by drilling and installing a roll pin of the appropriate daimeter through the metal ferruls. Won't ever come loose again./beagle
diplomacy is being able to say, "nice doggie" until you find a big rock.....
What timing 1 Just had one come loose today. Thought I'd get fancy and instead of using Gorilla glue as in the past, I thought drilling through the handle and metal and put a pin through.
First one no problem - drfill, push pin through, sweet ! Second one - drill through the wood, hit the metal tang, little pressure on the drill, SNAP broke the bit ! Must have cocked the piece a little.
Hmm, pull off handle, tiny divot in the metal.
OK, Chuck up another bit, wood off so I can see what I'm doing, keep uping the pressure, no cutting, hmmm me thinks. (yup, bit is sharp)
Move down the tang about 1/4 inch, cuts like a hot knife through butter !!
Some kind of "hard spot" in the tang ?? I duno !!
Back to the Gorilla for me !
Just to lend a hand to anyone. If you use Gorilla glue. It bubbles as it cures. Be prepaired to wipe the exces as it foams out of the handles. No big deal if a rag is handy.
Kevin
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |