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Thread: Watch where you whack

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
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    Watch where you whack

    I have noticed that until I get my Lee 6-cavity mold HOT I have trouble with getting the bullets to drop. So, I tend to beat on it with an 1-inch thick oak dowel. Typically I try and hit the handle nut.

    But, when I get frustrated I take a gentle whack at the edge of the bullet. So, of course I just had to remove a burr from the edge of one of the cavities, and will probably be stuck with a tiny wing on bullets from that cavity.



    Wish I had thought more before hitting.



    Since the mold seems to work great when it is hot (e.g. I have to wait for the sprue to harden) I think I will be getting a hot plate to better pre-heat the mold.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    Ben-WSU,

    If you've not thoroughly cleaned the mould, do so. Careful lapping with fine-grit valve lapping compound should help, too.

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I started using a hard plastic mallet instead of wood. It isn't hard enough to do damage and gives a sharper wack so I usually don'y have to hit it a second time. Plus I don't get the wood splinters after awhile.
    Aim small, miss small!

  4. #4
    Boolit Mold
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    i guess you could use a leather faced mallet for the same?

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I ruined my first LEE 148 gr. TLWC mold by striking it with a screwdriver handle. Missed the boolits. Hot alluminum tends to be soft and can damage easily. Dented the top of the mold.

    Still have it, .015 shaved off of the top may salvage all but one cavity.

    Shiloh
    Je suis Charlie

    "A society of sheep must in time beget a government of wolves."
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    “Any government that does not trust its citizens with firearms is either a tyranny, or planning to become one.” – Joseph P. Martino

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  6. #6
    Boolit Master JesterGrin_1's Avatar
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    That is why I made one of these The part that hits the mould is made of HDPE. If you would like to know more on how it works ask 45Nut ( Ken ) as I sent the one in the pic to him to abuse lol.
    If one sits in thundering quiet the soul dies slow instead of yell to the heavens for all to hear and behold the righteous and upstanding and ones of which should be held with tales of woe. By C.A.S. <--- Thats Me lol.

  7. #7
    Boolit Bub
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    Hobby Lobby has a nice wooden mallet in the leather section for about 4 bucks. Works great

    Glenn

  8. #8
    Boolit Master



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    I use one of my old rawhide headed leather mallets.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    Get a pair of welders gloves and after pouring just open the mold with your gloved hands. been doing this for years this way. I always wear these gloves when casting. Frank

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy
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    Jestergrin, Nice work!

  11. #11
    Boolit Master JesterGrin_1's Avatar
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    CWME Thank you.

    For others that do not wish to make a handle all you have to do is purchase say a 1 foot piece of HDPE at your local store that sells plastics. A 1 foot piece should only cost 3 or 4.oo Bucks.
    If one sits in thundering quiet the soul dies slow instead of yell to the heavens for all to hear and behold the righteous and upstanding and ones of which should be held with tales of woe. By C.A.S. <--- Thats Me lol.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master



    Crash_Corrigan's Avatar
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    Don't whackit....squirt it. Some Kano Kroil oil in the cavities will solve your problems.
    Pax Nobiscum Dan (Crash) Corrigan

    Currently casting, reloading and shooting: 223 Rem, 6.5x55 Sweede, 30 Carbine, 30-06 Springfield, 30-30 WCF, 303 Brit., 7.62x39, 7.92x57 Mauser, .32 Long, 32 H&R Mag, 327 Fed Mag, 380 ACP. 9x19, 38 Spcl, 357 Mag, 38-55 Win, 41 Mag, 44 Spcl., 44 Mag, 45 Colt, 45 ACP, 454 Casull, 457 RB for ROA and 50-90 Sharps. Shooting .22 LR & 12 Gauge seldom and buying ammo for same.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master


    Taylor's Avatar
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    Hickory hammer handle
    Pro Patria-Ne Desit Virtus

  14. #14
    Moderator Emeritus


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    I flick the stickers out with my thumb welders gloves on of course.
    [The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy desteve811's Avatar
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    i use my bullet puller..

  16. #16
    Boolit Master doubs43's Avatar
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    If you've properly cleaned your mold and applied a thin coat of mold release, such as the Frankfort Arsenal brand sold in an aerosol can, the bullets should drop out with minimal tapping.

    Here's how I do it. I disassemble the new mold and wash all parts thoroughly in denatured alcohol using an artist's brush. I dab the parts, including the cavities, with a kitchen paper towel and then allow to air dry. I speed the air dry along with a rubber air blower bulb.

    Next, I sit the blocks - cavities up - and the spure plate on a hot plate and heat them mildly to evaporate any alcohol that penetrated into the pores of the steel. As they cool and are just barely warm, I spray the cavities and the underside of the sprue plate with the mold release..... a light, even coating.

    When the release agent has dried, I use a Q-Tip to remove the release agent from the face of the mold blocks to make sure the air bleed channels are open. I'm very careful to avoid removing any release agent from the actual cavities. The mold is then put back together, the handles attached and let the casting begin! Depending upon the mold, a rap on the handles pivot bolt and opening the mold will cause the bullets to drop free. In general, only one or two light raps will free the bullets that don't drop when the mold is opened.

  17. #17
    In Remembrance
    montana_charlie's Avatar
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    If you whack the handle hinge on it's top you drive the mould in a downward direction. The bullet travels downward with it because the driving bands are locked with the grooves in the mould.

    It you hit the hinge on the side, it will move the mould sideways...away from the bullet.
    Bullet stuck in the left block...hit the hinge on the right side.

    CM
    Retired...TWICE. Now just raisin' cows and livin' on borrowed time.

  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy Daddyfixit's Avatar
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    Looks real nice Jestergrin, I use a piece of DELRIN (maybe the same stuf as HDPE??) but adding the weight would work way better!

    Quote Originally Posted by JesterGrin_1 View Post
    CWME Thank you.

    For others that do not wish to make a handle all you have to do is purchase say a 1 foot piece of HDPE at your local store that sells plastics. A 1 foot piece should only cost 3 or 4.oo Bucks.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master JesterGrin_1's Avatar
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    HDPE is High Density Poly Ethylene That same type of stuff one would use for a cutting board. I think Delrin is harder than the HDPE line of which you can get from softer compounds to high strength used for heavy bearing surfaces.

    If I make more of them I will use gun barrel drilled Aluminum as the one shown is a solid piece of Aluminum I machined down. As 45Nut ( Ken ) says it is a bit heavy lol.
    If one sits in thundering quiet the soul dies slow instead of yell to the heavens for all to hear and behold the righteous and upstanding and ones of which should be held with tales of woe. By C.A.S. <--- Thats Me lol.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master at Heaven's Range 2010

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    hammer

    any hardware should have stanley or other brands of plastic tipped hammers.I have two got so long ago I dont remember what I paid.
    WILDCATT

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