35 Rem Small Ring Mauser

[bstarling]

I may be able to get a Swedish M96 action for my project. The problem is that it is only a stripped bolt and receiver. Can the striker and associated parts from a 93 or 95 bolt be used in the Swedish. I also would need an extractor, trigger group, ejector box, and trigger guard assembly. I've looked into some Swedish replacement parts and they are way more expensive than German or Spanish for the 93/95 series.

Oh for the days of the $25 actions!!

Bill

[Tazman1602]

I may be able to get a Swedish M96 action for my project. The problem is that it is only a stripped bolt and receiver. Can the striker and associated parts from a 93 or 95 bolt be used in the Swedish. I also would need an extractor, trigger group, ejector box, and trigger guard assembly. I've looked into some Swedish replacement parts and they are way more expensive than German or Spanish for the 93/95 series.

Oh for the days of the $25 actions!!

Bill

Bill,
A good trigger you should be able to get from Timney for $50, and GOOD LORD I just priced out those parts!!!!!!! I've paid less for entire rifles!!!! ARRRRGGGGHHHHHHH!!!

"Where have all the mausers gone
LOOONNNGGG time passing......."

I'm guessing "Mauser guys" at the guns shows may be a lot cheaper IF they are still around, used to be at least three of them at the major shows in my area but man I just don't know anymore! The last extractor ring I bought still has the price on it, I just looked $.50........................

[bstarling]

I can buy a new action from lots of places for what some of these folks want for some of these Mausers. I am not going to give up, but man, I didn't want to have 500 bucks in a toy. I don't need another gun, but I really do want to do this build. I even thought about a Mosin, but that didn't make too much sense and would have taken a load of work. At the rate it is going I can buy a Savage at the pawn shop and build the 35 Rem easier than I can do the old Mauser. Trouble is that is NOT what I want too do.

Bill

[Tazman1602]

That was my way of thinking Bill, Geez I can buy a Savage used for less than a Mauser to do this with now or a used Marlin or..........take your pick. I'll keep my eyes peeled at gunshows, got a few coming up this spring and see what I can find but I don't know with what I've been seeing on the web lately.

Christmas even the old Enfield actions seem to ALL be GONE.....................wonder if this would work with a Springfield 03-A3 action, nah, that would be 35 Whelen..............

[bstarling]

I have run across a couple of possible candidates for a receiver for this project. Both are small ring 98's. One is a Mexican 1910 that has had it missing bolt replaced with an intermediate bolt. I don't know what kind, but the guy has some rifles he has built on these so I guess it works. The second is a Turkish SR 98. It has had the receiver faced to remove the lip and looks pretty good. The issue I am having is the fact that these have two torque shoulders, the "c" ring and the receiver face.

I am thinking that the inner ring will interfere with my barrel nut switch barrel idea. Is the "C" ring essential? Can it be removed without compromising the receivers strength?

Does anyone have any ideas about this?

Many thanks, Bill

[swheeler]

I WOULD NOT REMOVE it, nor would I face it off, it will not affect you one iota, PERIOD! Now if you MUST mess with it, and later want to rebarrel in the normal fashion, no big deal, but you will have to barrel in the M48 safety breech fashion with extractor cut in breech face. THIS IS NO BIG DEAL< EXCEPT YOU NEED A LATHE AND A MILL IS NICE FOR THE CUT!
You say you have the Turk action in your hand, close the bolt and look inside the rec ring, look specifically at the extractor, LIGHT COME ON FOR YOU??????????

[HangFireW8]

"Shaw makes the A&B barrels for Midway and a prethreaded short chambered barrel is the way to go for your first project." quote by Deltaenterprizes

Not true as far as I know, Battenfield Technologies ACTUALLY makes the barrels, unless you have some insider information

Battenfield Technologies is just another brand name held by Potterfield's MidwayUSA.

I don't know if it is still the case, but ER Shaw was making A&B barrels for years. I've owned both from the same era and the type and quality of rifling was identical, that is to say, adequate.

For initial horsing around on a lathe, an ER Shaw or A&B is a good choice to risk ruining, when you're ready for something accurate and not much more expensive, get a Lothar Walther or Douglas. When you really know what you are doing, or are willing to pay someone who does, then move up to the Lilja, Hart, Kreiger, MacMillan or Shilen.

When you own a barrel that breaks in with 10 shots and cleans all the (very little) copper out in ten minutes and the cotton patches go through it (when brand new) smooth as hot butter, then you'll know the difference.

I had to learn the hard way. I have lots of bucks tied up in a custom ER Shaw barreled rifle that shoots near one hole groups. I'm still waiting for it to finish breaking in and become easy to clean... maybe another 500 rounds will do it.

-HF

[swheeler]

I don't know if it is still the case, but ER Shaw was making A&B barrels for years. I've owned both from the same era and the type and quality of rifling was identical, that is to say, adequate

I don't know if this was EVER the case. I have seen it referenced many times on the internet, but that doesn't mean it is true. So until someone can give me proof, I have to say "just another cyber myth"
In an email from about a week ago Battenfeld Technologies(never heard of Battenfield Technologies) said they never heard of ER Shaw.
ER Shaw never replied to my email.
My oldest daughter was living in Columbia, Mo and going out with Midway/BT employee, when asked he told me they made the barrels themselves, there.
So I will say I have no proof that Shaw makes them. Someone on here has to live in Mo close enough for a tour, then we all could know the truth.

[swheeler]

I might add that I asked ,just recently, where someone read that A&B barrels were msade by Shaw, he replied that he read it on BT web site. I logged on to the site and read everthing, or atleast I thought I did, NOT A SINGLE WORD ABOUT ER SHAW!

I'm not from Missouri, but "SHOW ME"

[Dutchman]

I may be able to get a Swedish M96 action for my project. The problem is that it is only a stripped bolt and receiver. Can the striker and associated parts from a 93 or 95 bolt be used in the Swedish. I also would need an extractor, trigger group, ejector box, and trigger guard assembly. I've looked into some Swedish replacement parts and they are way more expensive than German or Spanish for the 93/95 series.

Oh for the days of the $25 actions!!

Bill

No other Mauser parts will fit the Swede.

Extractors are not difficult nor expensive. I can help you with the ejector box assy, triggerguard assy, guard screws, trigger & sear assy, new main spring, new unnumbered bolt sleeve, new unnumbered cocking piece. I don't have a spare firing pin or extractor I want to part with presently. Sarco may market a reproduction Swede firing pin, or so I heard.

I would suggest you get what you can from Ken Buch and what he doesn't have I may have. But the above mentioned parts I do have enough of to sell. I'll be ~gentle~ on your wallet as I can be, as well as for anybody else in this forum.
http://www.kebcollc.com/index.html

I also have m/96 stocks if you want to chop a stock into a sporter stock. I'll even cut the stock but you'll have to plug the cleaning rod hole and file-shape the front of the stock. I have beech and walnut stocks. One that needs refinishing would be perfect for a sporter. Cheaper, too.

I'll also barter parts for bullet molds or wheelweight ingots .

Dutch

[bstarling]

No other Mauser parts will fit the Swede.

Extractors are not difficult nor expensive. I can help you with the ejector box assy, triggerguard assy, guard screws, trigger & sear assy, new main spring, new unnumbered bolt sleeve, new unnumbered cocking piece. I don't have a spare firing pin or extractor I want to part with presently. Sarco may market a reproduction Swede firing pin, or so I heard.

I would suggest you get what you can from Ken Buch and what he doesn't have I may have. But the above mentioned parts I do have enough of to sell. I'll be ~gentle~ on your wallet as I can be, as well as for anybody else in this forum.
http://www.kebcollc.com/index.html

I also have m/96 stocks if you want to chop a stock into a sporter stock. I'll even cut the stock but you'll have to plug the cleaning rod hole and file-shape the front of the stock. I have beech and walnut stocks. One that needs refinishing would be perfect for a sporter. Cheaper, too.

I'll also barter parts for bullet molds or wheelweight ingots .

Dutch

Dutch, thanks for the offer and the web link. This project has taken a turn since I found a M98 FN 30 to work on. I was most fortunate that I was able to but it for $50. After I had looked at other sites for Swedish parts and almost fell over at the prices I got busy on another action. Look at 35 Rem Mauser Part 2 for the progress thus far.

Bill

[Dutchman]

Yeah, I saw Pt.II after I did that note.

Dutch

[acsteve]

I havent been on in a while, but I think the 35 rem on a small ring action sounds great. Happy hunting for a small ring in good condition. I would love a 35 SR in a short handy mannlicher. Will this require any boltface or extactor alteration?

[bstarling]

My project has taken a turn since I got a FN action. Now it is looking like its a 35 Whelen or a 338 Federal on a 98. But to answer your question, it looks to me as though the 35 Rem would work ok on the stock SR bolt face. I am no gunsmith by any means, but I have done a lot of research and questioning and that is the general conscience. One resource I have found helpful is Wikipedia. The have a lot of info on various cartridges with all of the dimensions. Try Googling "35 Remington dimensions"

I may well still go with that original plan if I can run across a decent SR action. I just haven't seen one yet.

Good luck if you find one, I'm sure it would be fun.

Bill

[marlinman2008]

I lucked up this weekend,im an apprentice gunsmith and I was helping my buddy this weekend parkerizing a few rifles when he asked me if i'd be interested in a Mauser 93,I said well i cant afford another rifle no time soon.He said,did i say anything about buying it?Anyways now im a prould owner of a Mauser 93 with a new barrel chambered in .35 remington.Its one of those mausers that was re-chambered during the nato era for .308 but when he got the gun the magazine hated the 7.62 (cartridges was too fat) so with a little figuring he decided to turn a new barrel in .35 and the rifle absolutely loves it.I have always loved the old remmy cartridge and cant wait to work up some loads with that cartridge using some boat-tail balistic tips.

[82nd airborne]

im 23 and ive rebarreled 3 mausers from blanks, all shot fine. id say youd be hard pressed to be more underskilled than I. You have the capapility to do the work, just think it all thru twice before turning a dial. however, the mini lathe is out of the question, if its like my grizzly of the same size, youll want that barrel choked right up to the chuck with as little as possible hanging out in the wind, which isnt possible. I hope this help, I see no need to insult anyones capabilities without knowing them. good luck with the project, im looking forward to seeing pictures.

[82nd airborne]

Delta,

Here lately I spend more time looking for the tool I just put down somewhere than I do working with it.

Bill

like looking for the safety glasses that are on top of your head for ten minutes? not much makes me feel dumber than that.

[357maximum]

I really wish you all would quit talking about bolt action 35 remmies.....you are not helping my yearning for one at all and have me looking at my SR mausers with a look they do not appreciate. It is one of those odd wants on my bucket list, but my bucket is low on money at this time and you are killing me. I have a perfectly great 1951 marlin 336SC in 35 rem, but I have always wanted a SR mauser in 35R..........a condition you fellas are not helping 1 iota with.

[bstarling]

I lucked up this weekend,im an apprentice gunsmith and I was helping my buddy this weekend parkerizing a few rifles when he asked me if i'd be interested in a Mauser 93,I said well i cant afford another rifle no time soon.He said,did i say anything about buying it?Anyways now im a prould owner of a Mauser 93 with a new barrel chambered in .35 remington.Its one of those mausers that was re-chambered during the nato era for .308 but when he got the gun the magazine hated the 7.62 (cartridges was too fat) so with a little figuring he decided to turn a new barrel in .35 and the rifle absolutely loves it.I have always loved the old remmy cartridge and cant wait to work up some loads with that cartridge using some boat-tail balistic tips.

You have made me envious. I wound up building a FN 98 into a 35 Whelen, that I truly do love, BUT, still want the Remington 35. The Whelen can always be loaded down to the Rem specs, but it ain't the same. I knew when I did the Whelen I would load em up big, and I have. Surely the dog sized deer we have in my neck of the woods will probably be killed by the muzzle blast if the round only hits near them! All joking aside, I have found that .357/.358 handgun bullets shoot nicely in the Whelen and I am certain would in the Remington as well. I'll likely hunt with a 200 grain J-word or a cast in the 250gr range. I have to find a reasonably prices mold for some of the 250+ boolets first though.

Good luck with the new 93.

Bill

[Molly]

On the subject of wanting a switch-barrel rifle: The locking nut is the way to do it, but I don't recommend it. I've made up a couple of switch-barrel rifles, and both times, I ended up getting fond of one particular caliber, and just letting the other barrels gather dust. 'Taint worth the trouble, in my experience. Make the rifle for what you want, and make another for anything else you want.

I really like the basic idea of a 35 Rem in a bolt though. You could use 38 Spl bullets for plinking and small game, and use factory ammo for most American big game. Shoot! You could even use the plastic Speer wadcutters and shoot in the basement.