I'm not sayin' don't use a barrel nut. That said, when I rebarreled my savage I cut the shank long enough to accept a tubb lug and fitted it to the action without a nut. Now if I can just get done with the stock mods we'll see how well it shoots.
I'm not sayin' don't use a barrel nut. That said, when I rebarreled my savage I cut the shank long enough to accept a tubb lug and fitted it to the action without a nut. Now if I can just get done with the stock mods we'll see how well it shoots.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.35_RemingtonThis is a cartridge with a medium to heavy bullet that has moderate recoil based on a moderate pressure level of 33,500 CUP as set by SAAMI.[1] The normal factory load consists of a 200 grain round-nosed bullet with a muzzle velocity between 1950 and 2100 feet per second.
That's a big YES, the Swede and other small ring actions are A-ok with .35 Remington, and for that matter, .30 Remington & .32 Remington & .300 Savage ".300 Savage is set by SAAMI at 46,000 CUP". The handicap with the .300 Savage being the same short neck as the 7.65x54 Belgian/Argentine Mauser. No such handicap with the .30/.32/.35 Remington.
The extractor issue may be similar to that of the 1867 rolling block 12,7x44R Swedish when using cartridges made from .348 WCF in that the rim diameter is somewhat smaller and once in a while you accidentally slip a rim past the extractor and have to sit there for some minutes trying to extricate the stuck cartridge from behind the extractor. You'll do this only a couple times before you pay closer attention to the chambering process.
Rim diameter of .35 Remington is .458" versus .480" for the 6.5x55. .022" difference. Since I have no experience with this conversion I'll contemplate a ~possible~ solution being to open up the bolt face and soft solder a partial ring, or circle segment, of the correct size. (thinking outloud).
Interesting about the .30 Remington case head diameter of .421" and it being the parent case for the 6.8 mm Remington SPC. I'd think that would certainly require bolt face and extractor mods that may rule out this particular path. At the least you wouldn't have problems with case availability though you'd have to load to .30 Remington levels.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.30_Remington
I still think the .35 Remington route is pretty cool.
Hmmm... metallurgy of a 100 year old umpteem times fired Swedish Mauser versus a new high proof pressure Marlin 336. That might be a tougher argument than you think, Joe .
Dutch
I'd put my money on the small ring beating the Marlin. The Marlin doesn't really shoot any really high pressure rounds if you think about it. Let's see how long a Marlin would hold up shooting a 308 or 243.
Depending on what small ring he goes with I think the extractor, if if in fairly good shape with get a grip on the case.
I too like the idea of the 35 Rem on a small ring.
Joe
I had to play with the extractor on my Spanish Mauser converted to 7.62x39. I had to grind the part that rides in the groove in the bolt to allow it to grab the rim consistantly and relieve the back of the claw to allow for the thicker rim. I had read about it on another forum and it worked well.
I was pointing out the extractor can be modified with minor metal removal to insure reliable extraction.
I converted a Large Ring - Small Thread Turk to 7.62x39 a few years back. A new extractor from Brownells fits the rim just perfect so I don't think you'll have a problem with a 35 Rem which has a larger diameter rim. And the 7.62x39 is also about 10k more psi than the 35 Rem. If the Turk Mausers can handle the European 8mm loadings they can handle the 35 Rem cartridge.
Either a 35 Rem or 358 Win Mauser is in my future in a few years as well.
Bruce
Bruce
I Cast my Boolits, Therefore I am Happy.
Bona Fide member of the Jeff Brown Hunt Club
All this talk has me considering a 35 cal rifle also, not sure which one.
Extraction has been a bit wimpy, and limp in the .35 Remington Mauser conversions I have handled. I'm certainly not saying that would always be the case. I've converted a bunch of Mausers, and understand they can be a lot more individual than you might think. I do thin that the idea of relieving the part that rides in the bolt groove is good, and I have often thought of soft soldering a shim in the bolt face. Temperatures involved in soldering get close to some heat treat temperatures though so I've always had some slight reservations about that.
Mausers are tough, and have forward locking lugs, but I have drilled, and tapped a few old Marlins for scope mounts and I have to say that they have very tough receivers. New Rugers, and all Mausers I've worked with are easier. The Marlin was chambered for the .307 Winchester, and the .375 Win. and those pressures are in line with what small ring Mausers are considered safe with so I'm kind of holding my money on that one. I do think that if things go wrong, the Mauser will probably handle things more gracefully. Feeding can be an issue with Mausers, and the .35 Rem too, so make sure you work that out before you get too involved in expensive barrels, etc.
+1 Joe. I know I'm a neophyte here but I know Mausers.
Lap the lugs, square up the boltface and barrel mating surfaces, get a decently chambered barrel and nothing will shoot like a Mauser larger or small for the price. I just wish I could find the cheap actions that were around ten years ago................
Art
”Only accurate rifles are interesting”
——Townsend Whelen
In a time of universal deceit , telling the truth is a revolutionary act
—- George Orwell
I would have never imagined this thread would have generated the amount of participation that it has. I think this speaks volumes about the caliber of people on this forum. I have gained a wealth of knowledge and have really gunned up my enthusiasm for this project. I am actively looking for a suitable action, and will let all know when I find one.
Thanks for all of the help.
Bill
1910 Mexican SR would be nice for that if there were any left. You know Bill, I may have an old ratty 1910 Mex that needs some work and a bolt out in my shop still. Let me know if you're interested and I'll look. I mean it's ratty too but the price would be right. Still gonna need a bolt IF I've still got it. A young gunsmith I know tried to weld on his first bolt handle to it and broke/melted the........well, I guess you get the story. Anyway if it's something might interest you get ahold of me and I'll trudge through the snow tomorrow.
Can't wait to see how it comes out. I haven't bought a short chambered pre-threaded barrel in a few years from Brownells and almost DIED when I saw the prices.
”Only accurate rifles are interesting”
——Townsend Whelen
In a time of universal deceit , telling the truth is a revolutionary act
—- George Orwell
Once you go .35 you will never go back. You have been informed and warned.
Over 1/2 of my toys that require a pre loaded brass case are in 35. Your in trouble once ya stick the toe in that water.
As far as 35 cal choices.....is there a bad choice in .35??????????? NOPE
I will say that since I have my very own 35WHELEN the rest seem rather redundant, as I can load up or down to match them all. The 35Whelen does fast and accurate a little easier also....I would call it the MOST FLEXIBLE 35. I would not give up any of the other children though. The 35Rem just does what it does so nicely and rather cheaply........there is no BAD 35 choice IMHO.
DID I HELP YOUR ISSUE??????
Small ring (M1894 Brazilian) Mauser 7.62x39. No extractor mods done, and none required for THIS rifle. However, EJECTOR mods were done. In addition a filler piece had to be added to the follower to bias the top round over to the right more.
Same action, NO extractor mods required on this rifle conversion either. As mentioned in my previous post, while I've encountered no problems with feeding, extracting or ejecting, a filler block might be a good idea ............just because
Not all extractors are going to grab the much smaller 7.62x39 reliably, and possibly also the 35 Rem. If they don't there are easy fixes.
..............Buckshot
Father Grand Caster watches over you my brother. Go now and pour yourself a hot one. May the Sacred Silver Stream be with you always
Proud former Shooters.Com Cast Bullet alumnus and plank owner.
"The Republic can survive a Barack Obama, who is, after all, merely a fool. It is less likely to survive a multitude of fools such as those who made him their president."
Shrink the State End the Fed Balance the budget Make a profit Leave an inheritance
Rick; I really like the red in the stock, but could live without ever seeing a bolt handle like that again, Numerich Arms, I've had several of them.
Charter Member #148
I have one of those bolt handles, actually a complete bolt.
I like it. It is no my heavy barrel and quite easy to throw. I have very large hands, and the bent bolts are an issue for me. MY hands hit the stock and they are quite uncomfortable.
Mike,
I dunno.......for example I owned a 7mm Rem Mag, but I still liked my smaller 7mm's better, like the 7x57 and 7mm08...even though I could load the Mag down it wasn't the same. I do see you point though. Looks like you need a 9.3x62 now Mike. Then after you own that and think the others are redundant, buy a 375 H&H Mag.
Joe
Since I always choose to "be different" why not consider the 9 x 57 necked to 35cal......it's really a .35 anyway. Use a 1-14/.358 barrel.
Cases can be made from cheap 8mm brass. Rails or bolt face do not have to modified. Start reading up on the 9 x 57 and you might rethink your conversion. It's done nearly everything in every corner of this earth. It's a reloading proposition anyway, so you have full control over pressues. .35's LOVE cast boolits.
I have several Turk Lg ring/Sm thread K. Kahl trued actions that I am going to put up for sale soon. (my FFL to your's) PM if interested.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |