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Thread: 35 Rem Small Ring Mauser

  1. #41
    Boolit Buddy bstarling's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by deltaenterprizes View Post
    The nut could be made with two flats and oriented where the flats were on the side and the radii are on the top and bottom to give a pleasant appearance.
    Delta,

    That sounds like a good idea on the nut. By the way, I am very familiar with the CRS syndrome. I'm 61 and it has set in I'm afraid. I have had my share of screw ups when working on things. Here lately I spend more time looking for the tool I just put down somewhere than I do working with it.

    Bill

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by bstarling View Post
    I have an action on a Spanish M93 Oviedo 7 x 57, but hate to do in the barrel. The rifle is a real shooter with a nice sharp shiny bore. It will do 1MOA in the hands of someone more steady than I. A friend of mine shot it last week and was shocked how well it shot. I guess, I'll be looking into getting another action since this seems to be coming together.

    I went on the Rhineland site and only saw some 45 ACP conversions. I have sent them an e-mail about suppling a 35 Rem set up. I'll have to wait and see. I will definitely plan this project out before I spend my retirement check on it.

    Thanks,

    Bill
    Yes the Rhineland conversions were for 45ACP and 45 win mag, The barrel nut for headspacing was what I wanted you to look at. Your M93 action will work just fine for a barrel nut set up, barrel torques against front of reciever ring. You don't want a short chambered barrel, unless you WANT to buy or rent a 35Rem finish reamer, and you don't want a deep chambered barrel unless you WANT to face off the breech to achieve .100" protrusion(use this terminology and any gunsmith/barrel maker will get your drift). Personally I would just have it reamed that way and while they were at it I would have the shank and threads made long enough to accept your barrel nut, Unless you just wanted to do it ALLyourself which is fine too, but methinks your are a little under gunned with the mini lathe. Don't give up on your ideas, nut or no nut have fun.
    Charter Member #148

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by bstarling View Post
    Delta,

    That sounds like a good idea on the nut. By the way, I am very familiar with the CRS syndrome. I'm 61 and it has set in I'm afraid. I have had my share of screw ups when working on things. Here lately I spend more time looking for the tool I just put down somewhere than I do working with it.

    Bill
    Another even more attractive barrel nut is the new Savage nut which is smooth all the way around. It has a hole in it which fits to a spanner wrench. Savage has the nut timed so it's inside the stock.

    Joe

  4. #44
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    [QUOTE=bstarling;767693]Delta,

    Here lately I spend more time looking for the tool I just put down somewhere than I do working with it.

    I have that exact same problem and it happens while I am standing in front of the lathe or mill and have not moved a step! It takes forever to get anything done, always looking for my tools.
    CRS, I couldn't remember that! I was told that when you get old memory is the second thing to go, I can't remember the first!
    Sad thing is I am only 54.

  5. #45
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    I would not go the exchangeable barrel route myself......stick with the one caliber and perfect it.....
    but I am very interested in converting that M93 of mine to a 35 Rem....
    can anyone recommend a gunsmith ...hopefully in the seattle/tacoma area?
    I dont have the tools to do this conversion myself and I think some of the posts on this thread are correct when they say that the job must be done be someone with experience and the proper tools.
    this has been a very interesting thread. Before this thread I was thinking of converting my M93 toa a 6.5x55 but the 35 Rem sounds MUCH more interesting

    atr

  6. #46
    Boolit Buddy bstarling's Avatar
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    "another even more attractive barrel nut is the new Savage nut which is smooth all the way around. It has a hole in it which fits to a spanner wrench. Savage has the nut timed so it's inside the stock."

    Joe

    I just went a took a look at my Mossberg ATR, which is also a very accurate rifle. It has a barrel nut just like the one you described for the new Savage. That is a really smoothly fitted nut and you have to look closely to tell it's a nut and not the shoulder of the barrel.

    This whole thing is becoming more and more clear in my mind.

    Thanks, Bill

  7. #47
    Boolit Grand Master


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    Now all you have to do is make a list of your switch barrel caliber choices, then start adding them! 300 Savage, 257 Rob,6.5x55,250 Sav, 7x57 this will be fun, and expensive-ha
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  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by StarMetal View Post
    .................and the Savage barrel nut system shoots a heck of a lot better then most regular barrel systems. I don't know about aiding faster production, if anything it cost them more money having to make the nuts.

    Joe

    The barrel nut in NO WAY helps with accuracy.

    I DO KNOW about aiding faster production. If you use a nut you can slap the chambers in + - .005 for depth, then use the nut to set the headspace.

    A SWITCH BARREL rifle does NOT need a nut, unless your going to use the barrels on more than one receiver.

    If things are done properly there is no need to "adjust" things..........they are right when the bbl is tightened against it's shoulder.

    If I ever had a savage, when I rebarreled it I would take the stupid nut out and SHOOT it with my new bbl once I had the gun sighted in, the new bbl would have no nut, it would not need one, the bbl would be fit right in the first place.

    Bill
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  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by atr View Post
    I would not go the exchangeable barrel route myself......stick with the one caliber and perfect it.....
    but I am very interested in converting that M93 of mine to a 35 Rem....
    can anyone recommend a gunsmith ...hopefully in the seattle/tacoma area?
    I dont have the tools to do this conversion myself and I think some of the posts on this thread are correct when they say that the job must be done be someone with experience and the proper tools.
    this has been a very interesting thread. Before this thread I was thinking of converting my M93 toa a 6.5x55 but the 35 Rem sounds MUCH more interesting

    atr
    If you get a pre-threaded and short chambered barrel I can help you. I have all the equipment necessary including a very good finish reamer. As long as I don't charge you for the work I don't need an FFL. I live in University Place so we could spend an enjoyable afternoon rebarreling your rifle.

    Larry Gibson

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Gibson View Post
    If you get a pre-threaded and short chambered barrel I can help you. I have all the equipment necessary including a very good finish reamer. As long as I don't charge you for the work I don't need an FFL. I live in University Place so we could spend an enjoyable afternoon rebarreling your rifle.

    Larry Gibson

    Actually you can charge all you want, just don't keep the action over night .


    Bill
    Both ends WHAT a player

  11. #51
    Boolit Buddy bstarling's Avatar
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    I am overwhelmed with all of the helpful advise I am receiving. There is a wealth of knowledge on this board and I intend to use it fully. There's a couple of gun shows over my way in the near future. I'll be at them looking for a donor action and then the fun will begin! I have a line on a 98 right now, not 100% sure it is available but also not sure I want a 98. I sort of have my heart set on doing this as a 91-96 project. I'm afraid if I go with a 98, I'll be tempted to go with something that will kick hell out of my worn out old shoulder and put me out of commission for a while. I've been there done that and it's not fun. I know if I went w/ a 98 I'd think about a 35 Whelen I'd load it up to hot for the old bones and be sorry.

    Thanks all,

    Bill
    Last edited by bstarling; 01-05-2010 at 09:54 AM. Reason: still can't spell

  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by bstarling View Post
    I am overwhelmed with all of the helpful advise I am receiving. There is a wealth of knowledge on this board and I intend to use it fully. There's a couple of gun shows over my way in the near future. I'll be at them looking for a donor action and then the fun will begin! I have a line on a 98 right now, not 100% sure it is available but also not sure I want a 98. I sort of have my heart set on doing this as a 91-96 project. I'm afraid if I go with a 98, I'll be tempted to go with something that will kick hell out of my worn out old shoulder and put me out of commission for a while. I've been there done that and it's not fun. I know if I went w/ a 98 I'd think about a 35 Whelen I'd load it up to hot for the old bones and be sorry.

    Thanks all,

    Bill
    Bill; stick to your original idea of a nutted switch barrel mauser! Heck everybody and their nephew has done a prefit short chambered mauser(cheap-fast-easy) we've seen enough of those! Walk to the beat of a different drummer and TAKE PICTURES!
    Charter Member #148

  13. #53
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    I had always wondered about using a milled slot in barrel shank and a spanner fit to it. Fit the barrel as normal and use the spanner to switch barrels. You could make barrels the same contour and bed the rifle by filling the slot with silly putty/modelers clay.

    Or you could make flat on bottom of barrel once setup and a witness mark on top. And use a wrench that slips over the barrel with a matching flat. That wrench could be easily made. Use a lathe turned bore the same as the barrel, then grind one side down and use a piece of heavy strap/swuare bar stock to make the handle. To take barrel off all you would have to do is turn teh wrench around and use your acton vise. If you are nto torqueing highly you can make the action wrench in a similar fashion.

    How much torque is to be used on the savage nut?

  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by manleyjt View Post
    I had always wondered about using a milled slot in barrel shank and a spanner fit to it. Fit the barrel as normal and use the spanner to switch barrels. You could make barrels the same contour and bed the rifle by filling the slot with silly putty/modelers clay.

    Or you could make flat on bottom of barrel once setup and a witness mark on top. And use a wrench that slips over the barrel with a matching flat. That wrench could be easily made. Use a lathe turned bore the same as the barrel, then grind one side down and use a piece of heavy strap/swuare bar stock to make the handle. To take barrel off all you would have to do is turn teh wrench around and use your acton vise. If you are nto torqueing highly you can make the action wrench in a similar fashion.

    How much torque is to be used on the savage nut?
    The top Savage smith (recommended by Savage themselves) said just snug if you're not switching barrel and up to 40 pounds if you plan on switching off and on.

    Joe

  15. #55
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    Buckshot & LarryG

    Are there any bolt face or extractor mods required for the .35 Remington conversion?
    I recall hearing that there were but I haven't seen it mentioned in this thread.

    You guys measure only twice? Sometimes I have to wait overnight before I make a cut .


    Overnight = FFL required.

    Dutch

  16. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dutchman View Post
    Buckshot & LarryG

    Are there any bolt face or extractor mods required for the .35 Remington conversion?
    I recall hearing that there were but I haven't seen it mentioned in this thread.

    You guys measure only twice? Sometimes I have to wait overnight before I make a cut .


    Overnight = FFL required.

    Dutch
    Dutch,

    On the small base Mauser what could be done to the bolt face? I mean the 35 Rem rim is smaller then anything they were made for. Larry said sometimes the extractor may not grab the rim good especially if the extractor is worn and to just replace it with a new one. Take my Savage 6.5MS. Although not a Mauser action, the bolt face is for a 308 class. I figured there's enough extractor catching the rim and the chamber centers the round so what the heck. Turns out that was right. There is an after market extractor for the Savage for the PPC class round and I could get that if needed but it's not.

    Joe

  17. #57
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    Bill; So I guess it is settled, SR mauser WITH barrel nut in 35 REM to start, then add other cal. I want to see pictures!
    Charter Member #148

  18. #58
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    The Turk Mauser, K-Kale, is a large ring, small ring thread reciever.
    Why not go there for the extra strength?

  19. #59
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    the Dutchman posed a good question about the extractor,,,I was wondering that myself,,

    I am also wondering if the operating pressures of the 35 Rem are within the recommended 45,000 psi pressure usually associated with the small ring Mauser actions.

    Larry,,,,thanks for you offer !!!...you will be hearing from me regarding this
    art

  20. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by atr View Post
    the Dutchman posed a good question about the extractor,,,I was wondering that myself,,

    I am also wondering if the operating pressures of the 35 Rem are within the recommended 45,000 psi pressure usually associated with the small ring Mauser actions.

    Larry,,,,thanks for you offer !!!...you will be hearing from me regarding this
    art

    Good question yes, but I fill it has been addressed. Larry has an operating rifle with the 35 Rem. I tried to address the question but apparently the answer didn't suit you. I do not mean that as inflammatory.

    I feel the 35 Rem can operate successfully in small ring mauser and a plus is the large 35 caliber bore drops pressure fast as the bullet moves down the bore. In addition do you think that a Model 336 Marlin is stronger then a small ring mauser....I don't.

    Joe

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