Milk Jug 300 Yard 6.5 Swede

[StarMetal]

Pizza comes in a ready to use target holder. If you feel like getting fancy.

You know what's pitiful about that is that I know that and have used them from time to time.

[scrapcan]

Ah, but to do better you can also use the 12 pack box to hold the empty cans to shoot at them also. You can have your Pizza, Beer and a bunch of fun targets the next day!

[StarMetal]

I was out with the Swede again today and I used that same load of 35 grains of R22 and 35 grains of N160 except I exchanged the group buy Kurtz with BaBore's remake of the same bullet. I believe this to be the first shooting posted of his bullet. Where as the Swede like the original Kurtz with both powders, it favored the R22 load with BaBore's bullet. In fact I believe it shot a smaller group with it excluding the first clean bore fouling shot which is the most top one in group.

Buckshot: New targets, this time I bought the ones with those 3 35 caliber clean cut holes on the left instead of the right.

Here's the target and you can see how the rifle didn't like the N160:

[StarMetal]

Keeping both threads going.

I decided to devote some time to the Cruise Missile today. Three different powders...Accurate 4350, IMR 7828, and N 160. The 4350 didn't shoot good so it's eliminated in this post. The N 160 seems to be good. I haven't tweaked any of these yet. The first shot from a clean barrel was a low flyer and it's marked on the target. The other 4 went into about an inch group. These were at 2239 fps. The 7828 shows it wants to shoot and I'll mess with it some. It went into about 2 inches which I classify as my Coke Can group...bottom of Coke Can that is. Those went 2128 fps. It was fired from a fouled bore so no flyers. On the first target the 4350 groups is marked.

[scrapcan]

Joe

tell me what you did with the 7828 loading. This is one of my favorite powders for a coule rifles (25-06 and 7mm-06 at present). I have been using the slow for cartridge powder for many years and thought it woudl be too slow for the swede and fillers.

[StarMetal]

Joe

tell me what you did with the 7828 loading. This is one of my favorite powders for a coule rifles (25-06 and 7mm-06 at present). I have been using the slow for cartridge powder for many years and thought it woudl be too slow for the swede and fillers.

I hadn't tried it with the CM so my first load was 34 grains. That's the target you saw. Typical buffer loading, pour the powder in and top with the buffer while lightly tapping the case to settle it to just 1/16th of an inch past where the bullet base will finally be seated. I crimp them using a Lee factory crimp die. Primers were Wolf. I then tried upping the load 1/2 grain and the group opened up. I'll do some more testing with that powder for sure. Even though the velocity 2128 fps the loads seemed mild and the primers showed nothing.

[StarMetal]

Another load that shows promising results in the 6.5 Swede using the Kurtz bullet is IMR 7828 powder. I tried 34 grains with the buffer and although not stellar, had a decent group. Shows with some tweaking it will shoot.

Absolutely none of my shooting has been with factory brass, no matter how well you think they may fit the chamber they still have thin necks.

[StarMetal]

Ok, new discovery. I took my famous 4350 load with the 6.5 Kurtz bullet and shot them out of PMC commercial brass with a new technique (to the case only) and I shot a 3/4 inch group. That is a major improvement with commercial brass. Dutchman gave me the technique in a private email so direct all queries about the brass prep to him. He told me in confidence.

[goofyoldfart]

Well, I read all 26 pages of this thread. Must say that my eyes are both bloodshot at this point. I have a CG M38 and all I want to do with it is shoot heavy for caliber @around 1400--1600 FPS. in a good hollow point with a good metplat. The rifle is too nice to run the risk of damaging (or my fat old body 2) , I just want something to plink and penetrate out to about 150--175 yds. I don't need the HV stuff. The rifle and I have one thing in common and that is we're both old (and beautiful ) and don't want to damage either. when I hunt I'm lucky if I can see that far. So, Joe, feel free to bash me as a Woose-Puss or anyone for that matter It was interesting to see the thought and effort that was put into the project and I learned a lot. one of the major thing s that I learned is that it is Not my cup of tea. Great for those that want to do that stuff. Learned a lot about the Swede. all of it helps.

I would be interested to any that wish to share the knowledge for the LOW velocity load mentioned -- what would be the best heavy for caliber bullet in this range? I have never loaded for the Swede or any 6.5 for that matter. Loaded plenty for pistols and 30's and 8MM. Hell, 30 years ago I was shooting 3006 180's (cast) at 2500 FPS. Like a damm fool, I don't have the data in my records. Youngun's often are more interested in shooting rather that data collection. After I eroded a few throats and had to buy new rifles, I started to get smarter. So, long story short, any help appreciated, Thanks.

[Bass Ackward]

Hell, 30 years ago I was shooting 3006 180's (cast) at 2500 FPS. Like a damm fool, I don't have the data in my records. After I eroded a few throats and had to buy new rifles, I started to get smarter. So, long story short, any help appreciated, Thanks.

Yep, that throat comment sounds like you got the T-Shirt.

[felix]

Yep, T-shirts galore. High heat results from high pressure which makes our smokeless powders burn completely. A consistent pressure curve is desired, and that typically is at the expense of a high peak pressure that occurs too close to the throat. Unfortunately, this is NOT dependent on projectile type. ... felix

[goofyoldfart]

Yup, I claim the T-shirt. Plus with the arthritis and bursitis of my shoulders--I want soft recoil. I've found that burning out barrels is not the way to go. for the cost of one barrel I can buy a lot of Decelerator pads and past equipment. :P

ETA: still open to suggestions on heavy for caliber in 6.5. you guys know what flies better in this realm than I do.

[StarMetal]

Well, I read all 26 pages of this thread. Must say that my eyes are both bloodshot at this point. I have a CG M38 and all I want to do with it is shoot heavy for caliber @around 1400--1600 FPS. in a good hollow point with a good metplat. The rifle is too nice to run the risk of damaging (or my fat old body 2) , I just want something to plink and penetrate out to about 150--175 yds. I don't need the HV stuff. The rifle and I have one thing in common and that is we're both old (and beautiful ) and don't want to damage either. when I hunt I'm lucky if I can see that far. So, Joe, feel free to bash me as a Woose-Puss or anyone for that matter It was interesting to see the thought and effort that was put into the project and I learned a lot. one of the major thing s that I learned is that it is Not my cup of tea. Great for those that want to do that stuff. Learned a lot about the Swede. all of it helps.

I would be interested to any that wish to share the knowledge for the LOW velocity load mentioned -- what would be the best heavy for caliber bullet in this range? I have never loaded for the Swede or any 6.5 for that matter. Loaded plenty for pistols and 30's and 8MM. Hell, 30 years ago I was shooting 3006 180's (cast) at 2500 FPS. Like a damm fool, I don't have the data in my records. Youngun's often are more interested in shooting rather that data collection. After I eroded a few throats and had to buy new rifles, I started to get smarter. So, long story short, any help appreciated, Thanks.

You won't get the bashing from me. If you are satisfied what you are doing..that's what counts for you. Only two things I will say is you would really have to work hard in the wrong manner to damage your rifle and the other is boy the Swede is really nice shooting at those yardages you mentioned with a little more velocity.....such as my milk jug shot. Too bad the coyotes killed off most the groundhogs because this would be a jim dandy load for them.

Read my next post.

[StarMetal]

Yesterday I wanted to go out and fire form some of the 30-06 military brass I just prepared. You know the format on that, the wrapping of Scotch Tape around the solid web portion of the case to center it in the chamber for even expansion while the cast bullet and thicker neck centers the front end. I wasn't expecting very good results on initial fire forming but had some other problems that interfered with the shooting. I let a friend of ours hay my fields which in one is my shooting range. With all the rain we have been getting he hasn't had an opportunity to do this yet. Last week I set up some target and sat at my bench and couldn't see the target due to the height of the grass. So I run back and forth with my ATV half a dozen time and matted down a path. It was fine for that day, but when I went out yesterday to shoot those fire forming loads, some of it sprung up and plus there was a breeze blowing some of it back and forth through my line of fire. I said what the heck, I just want to form this stuff. I shot ten round and I was amazed that the first three went into one hole and then shooting through the grass and heating the barrel up, I ended up with a 2 inch group. I says "hey, this requires some more loading and testing". I got the formed brass and reloaded and haven't been back out yet. I will give you the load here which maybe, must maybe may work for you. Like I said I didn't want to waste my more expensive good powders so I used my 860 surplus. I of course used the technique described in this thread. Bullets were BaBore's re-cut of the Lyman 266468 which he got to drop at the proper fatter diameter. I sized them to .268 and used a very firm crimp with the Lee factory crimper. I put them across the chronograph and they were going 2424 fps. I thought that's not bad for a 140 grain bullet. I'll retest that load and I won't be shooting through no grass this time.

[Crash_Corrigan]

I have not had the time nor the inclination to read this thread completely. But for an easy on the pocketbook and shoulder loading for this calibre I have had some success.

I had a custom rifle built onto an BRNO Czcech 98/22 Mauser action. The gunsmith put on a Douglas Match barrel, Buhler safety, thumb hole laminated stock, jeweled the bolt, did some work on the bolt face, cleaned up the screwholes in the baseplate under the magazine and blued it beautifully. It came out just like I wanted. The only drawback is that it is very heavy to lug around. But from a rifle rest on a good bench it is a tackdriver with:

A Lyman 266469 cast boolit of straight ww water quenched with nothing added except I also throw in the stick on weights. I waste nothing. I size it to .266 in my SAECO lubricizer with lars Carnuba Red and add a gas check.

Using a commercial PMC casing which I bought cheap at the Brassman for only $121 per 500 cases I put in 10 gr of Unique powder and using a Lee expander die open up the case mouth so as not to shave the lead offa the base seat my round.

No, I did not FL size the case first....it fits fine in the gun. With this loading I get decent accuracy and low recoil at over 440 yds. I have not chroned the loading yet but I suspect it is moving somewhere in the area of 1600 FPS.

I have been able to get groups of less than an inch at 100 yds and at my range there are two steel targets set out at 300 and 440 yds. The closer one is 18" x 30" and the far one is 24" x 36" They are set on steel posts in concrete and are angled down about 15 degrees to prevent richochets.

The area around them is chewed up pretty good and when you hit the target you will see a big dust cloud form at the base and then hear a distinct clang from the steel. No matter if you are shooting a .223 or a 50-90 you will hear the clang if you hit it. If you miss you will see a major dust cloud from the impact.

If you have your spotter set up the scope directly behind and above you he can watch the last half of the bullet flight in the air and really tell you where you are hitting the target.

There is a can of black spray paint at the target if you are so inclined to really be picky however. I figure if I can hit these targets with regularity the loading is pretty good at that range.

The last time I used this gun with this loading I went down to the target prior to shooting and sprayed it with the paint. Then back to the line and I fired 5 rounds to see where they were hitting. With the 40x scope I could see I had a good group of 5 hits within a 6 inch circle right in the center of the target. I then tried to hit all four corners of the target by aiming my 24x scope as to hit 3 inches down and 3 inches in from the corners. Again I had my 4 groups of about 6 inches.

The wind was about 5 mph and temps in the low 80's and the stars were in alighnment for me that day. Moving out to the 440 yd target I was getting bigger groups naturally but there was a clang after every round.

Trying some Data 2200 powder I had bought years ago I got terrible results. I was lucky to hit the 300 yd target once in five and the 440 yd target one in 10. Some of those rounds were as much as 6 feet off to the right or left with the same boolit. So this gun and boolit did not like that loading at all.

Shooting that Data 2200 powder in a .223 I had excellent results but not in the Sweede.

Again 10 grains of Unique with a gas checked 140 gr lead cast boolit worked for me.

[StarMetal]

I have not had the time nor the inclination to read this thread completely. But for an easy on the pocketbook and shoulder loading for this calibre I have had some success.

I had a custom rifle built onto an BRNO Czcech 98/22 Mauser action. The gunsmith put on a Douglas Match barrel, Buhler safety, thumb hole laminated stock, jeweled the bolt, did some work on the bolt face, cleaned up the screwholes in the baseplate under the magazine and blued it beautifully. It came out just like I wanted. The only drawback is that it is very heavy to lug around. But from a rifle rest on a good bench it is a tackdriver with:

A Lyman 266469 cast boolit of straight ww water quenched with nothing added except I also throw in the stick on weights. I waste nothing. I size it to .266 in my SAECO lubricizer with lars Carnuba Red and add a gas check.

Using a commercial PMC casing which I bought cheap at the Brassman for only $121 per 500 cases I put in 10 gr of Unique powder and using a Lee expander die open up the case mouth so as not to shave the lead offa the base seat my round.

No, I did not FL size the case first....it fits fine in the gun. With this loading I get decent accuracy and low recoil at over 440 yds. I have not chroned the loading yet but I suspect it is moving somewhere in the area of 1600 FPS.

I have been able to get groups of less than an inch at 100 yds and at my range there are two steel targets set out at 300 and 440 yds. The closer one is 18" x 30" and the far one is 24" x 36" They are set on steel posts in concrete and are angled down about 15 degrees to prevent richochets.

The area around them is chewed up pretty good and when you hit the target you will see a big dust cloud form at the base and then hear a distinct clang from the steel. No matter if you are shooting a .223 or a 50-90 you will hear the clang if you hit it. If you miss you will see a major dust cloud from the impact.

If you have your spotter set up the scope directly behind and above you he can watch the last half of the bullet flight in the air and really tell you where you are hitting the target.

There is a can of black spray paint at the target if you are so inclined to really be picky however. I figure if I can hit these targets with regularity the loading is pretty good at that range.

The last time I used this gun with this loading I went down to the target prior to shooting and sprayed it with the paint. Then back to the line and I fired 5 rounds to see where they were hitting. With the 40x scope I could see I had a good group of 5 hits within a 6 inch circle right in the center of the target. I then tried to hit all four corners of the target by aiming my 24x scope as to hit 3 inches down and 3 inches in from the corners. Again I had my 4 groups of about 6 inches.

The wind was about 5 mph and temps in the low 80's and the stars were in alighnment for me that day. Moving out to the 440 yd target I was getting bigger groups naturally but there was a clang after every round.

Trying some Data 2200 powder I had bought years ago I got terrible results. I was lucky to hit the 300 yd target once in five and the 440 yd target one in 10. Some of those rounds were as much as 6 feet off to the right or left with the same boolit. So this gun and boolit did not like that loading at all.

Shooting that Data 2200 powder in a .223 I had excellent results but not in the Sweede.

Again 10 grains of Unique with a gas checked 140 gr lead cast boolit worked for me.

That's really great. I'm glad you got that mold I sold you shooting good. I feel good it went to a good home.

I bought some of that brass from the same place.

Sounds like you are enjoying yourself. Keep up the good work and good shooting.

[Hang Fire]

Got my .266 lube/sizing die in for the 96/38 Swede and had a few of the Lee cruise missiles cast up from water dropped WW. Knew the boolits were fat at .271, but the old #45 balked at even trying to size down to .266. I will cast up some softer boolits to try, first air cooled 50/50 WW and soft lead, if still too hard to size, will try 2/3 lead and 1/3 WW. I don't intend to push them hot, just stay around 1600 fps.

[StarMetal]

OldJoe was out again finding yet more loads for you fellows. Here's what I shot today. I shot the BaBore's Kurt and BaBore's 268459 both over two powders...one is new. The old one is 860 surplus. The new powder for me is the new 867 surplus. The Kurtz went into any inch group with both powders, same location on target too. The 860 with the 268 went into 3/4 inch and the 867 into 1 inch. I shot both 268's in heavy rain. Little description on the loads. The big difference this time, besides the new 867, was CCI Large Rifle Magnum primers. It made a difference. More on the 867. I loaded the 860 to 44 grains and with the shot buffer and mag primer. Well without changing the powder measure (Belding & Mull) I used the same setting to drop the 867 charges. Well the volumes were the same, but the 867 weighed a grain less. Now the 867 had more of a crack upon firing and it's velocity was higher. So, so far, I'm determining that the 867 is faster then the 860. Boy I'm glad I bought 8 pounds of it. The 867 burned CLEAN...no left over granules or carbon. The velocity of the 140 some grain BaBore 268 was in the mid 2400's. I didn't chronograph the Kurtz. I will do that later.

So I feel I have a few more decent loads that are great because of the cheap surplus powders.

You fellows wanting to do this now have at least a half dozen or more loads that worked for me to start testing your rifles on. You don't have to shoot bug groups...around an inch is good.

[Bullshop]

Nice, why dont you enter some of those in the postal match?
BIC/BS

[StarMetal]

Nice, why dont you enter some of those in the postal match?
BIC/BS

Thanks Dan.....and no....lots don't believe what I do so the postal match would only be one more hassle for me. Thanks for the offer.