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Thread: 40 cal from 9mm easiest by far and cheap!

  1. #41
    Boolit Master
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    Striker the rod in the middle knocks out the bullet. Its attatched to the ram so as the ram comes down the bullet gets ejected.

    On regular CH dies you are supposed to wack it with the hammer to knock out the bullet.

    Here is a video of a CH die being used without the mods

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZqRlg...eature=related

  2. #42
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    Dannix,

    The Redding is a good press for sure I just think the ram is made from to soft of metal. Certainly good for reloading purposes. If you pay attention to how the suport arms that hold the arm assembly to the press you will notice the Redding big boss is only supported on one side of each arm and designs like the rockchucker and Lee clasic cast supports this spot on both sides. Hope I explaned that clearly. I know of a one guy that broke the rockchucker where the handel joins the piece coneted to the ram and support arms. This is where I broke my cheaper RCBS too. then I made a stronger set up and broke the cheaper RCBS all together. I'll get a pic of that soon.

    A coax and ch dies would certainly be all you need to make a lot of bullets. The dies themselfs are strong enough to last a life time. the interial parts could use a stronger design but when used as dirrected they work great. I may just post a thread on the die improvments someday.
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  3. #43
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    Sonoma,

    Turning 22lr into .223-.264 bullets has got to be one of the most popular topics on this board. I have not tryied it yet. Check some of the long threads all ready in progress as they will have more to offer then I.

    Thanks for the compliments.

    Bt
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  4. #44
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    Striker,

    Aneat sumed it up pretty good. Check the pic I posted of the components I attacted to the ram of the press. With the piece of steel attached to the ram and the threaded rods connected to it. Then another piece of steel conected to the top of the rods with an 1/4" ejecting rod in the middle facing down threw a hole in the top of the dies. When the ram comes back down so does everything connected to it (2 pieces of steel, 2 threaded rods, 8 nuts and one 1/4" upside down rod you get the idea). The 1/4" rod pushes the internial parts of the die back down ejecting the bullet. Otherwise the bullet is still in the die waiting for you to manually eject it with a mallet.

    Absoltly the best thing I have made for this set up. Not my design as it has been done before and posted here on the sight.
    Last edited by BT Sniper; 12-16-2009 at 03:00 PM.
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  5. #45
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    Yes I have quite a few RC planes. Been building them since I was 12. Became an airline pilot then the hobby felt a little like work. Now I no longer fly for a living so I can enjoy my hobby again. I rotate between all my hobbies depending on time of year. I like to make my own everything, DIY. Model airplanes, fishing flys and poles, lead weights, bullets, auto body work and paint, reloading, gun stocks, bit of machine work and tooling, cooking, as you can see in the video I am no stranger to good food.
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  6. #46
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    Dannix,

    Casting lead boolits to be used for cores is one of the more enjoyable parts of this hobby, actually a bit of stress relief for me. If you ask me I think casting boolits as compared to swaging bullets is by far easier and more enjoyable. I just like the look of a jacketed bullet compared to bare lead.

    With a inexpensive lee boolit mold you can turn out hundreds of boolits in just an 1 hour time and that is with a 2 cavity mold. With a 6 cavity mold it can be a couple thousand per hour and just as good as using wire without the need to cut anything.

    9mm and 40 S&W brass has got to be the least expensive brass out there to obtain. I can get it for $56 shipped for 3k worth just have to look around a bit. Then when you get good making bullets you can trade brass for bullet at a rate of 20-1. Doesn't take long to acquire a LOT of brass. Great thing about this is the brass is never to old to be used as a jacket. I have a lot of berdan too. Not to many people reloading that stuff.

    BT
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  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by ANeat View Post
    Striker the rod in the middle knocks out the bullet. Its attatched to the ram so as the ram comes down the bullet gets ejected.

    On regular CH dies you are supposed to wack it with the hammer to knock out the bullet.

    Here is a video of a CH die being used without the mods

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZqRlg...eature=related
    I get it now...Genius. I would definitely buy that in a kit if it was available.

  8. #48
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    " I would definitely buy that in a kit if it was available. "

    What press do you have? I may have some time and could possibly put somthing together.
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  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by BT Sniper View Post
    broke the rockchucker where the handel joins the piece coneted to the ram and support arms. This is where I broke my cheaper RCBS too. then I made a stronger set up and broke the cheaper RCBS all together. I'll get a pic of that soon.
    Pics of press destruction is always cool.

    Quote Originally Posted by BT Sniper View Post
    The dies themselfs are strong enough to last a life time. the interial parts could use a stronger design but when used as dirrected they work great. I may just post a thread on the die improvments someday.
    A thread post on this would be awesome and very much appreciated!

    In regards to casting, it was on my to do list once one of these days I pick up a single action for lead-only purposes. Now I have another reason to start casting.

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sonoma2k2 View Post
    that has got to be one of the most awesome things I have learned!! I don't personally own a 40 but i got a 357sig so i could get another barrel.

    now i do save my 22lr cases from time to time, what can i make with those little boogers? I got quite a few 223's and 243. throw your knowledge my way and into my dumpster some call a brain BT!!!
    Sonoma,
    Why don't you just get the .355 dies from CH40 and swage for the SIG? I have been following BT's posts because I can't cast for my sig, and I would like to shoot it more.

    IMO, I'll cast for the .40 and swage for the SIG.
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  11. #51
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    Bullet ejector/hammer substitute !

    C-H used to make a bullet ejector that used an eccentric lobe to push your new bullet out. The one pictured is mine - I don't need it with the Corbin press/Blackmon dies I have now so if anybody wants it, it can be had !

  12. #52
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    I have one of those too given to me by a friend. Havn't tried it yet. I'll have to see how well it works. Didn't know it was a CH tool. Kind of forgot about it.
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  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by BT Sniper View Post
    " I would definitely buy that in a kit if it was available. "

    What press do you have? I may have some time and could possibly put somthing together.
    If I got that die, I would get a dedicated single stage press for seating. Probably a lee classic cast or something used if I could find it.

    I spent my gun/reloading allowance so I wouldn't be able to do this for at least a few months. Thanks for the offer, I'll pm you in the future.

  14. #54
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    Hey BT, What are your thoughts on useing berdan casings, the CCI aluminum type, that material is so soft probably would not need to be annealed. Thanks.

  15. #55
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    Never thought of that? I know the Nickel cases got shot down because of the ware and tare on the dies and barrel.

    I would certainly give it a try but I don't have any. Know of anyone that does?

    What would aluminum do inside a barrel? May be pretty cool and you are probably correct that I would not have to anneal it. Not for sure on that though. Someone send me some I'll give it a try.
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  16. #56
    Boolit Master
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    My first thoughts on the aluminum cases were aluminum oxide, which is very hard, as in abrasive.

    But then dont bullets like winchester slivertips have an aluminum jacket???

    I know guys here are making gas checks out of aluminum

  17. #57
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    Now I remember the al oxide discusion. I know of silver tips with al used as the tip cover but it did not extend down to the tangent of the bullet to engage the riffling. I;m sure some one may step in on the subject.
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  18. #58
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    Thanks for the return BT, I'll make it to the indoor range in the A M, see what I can come up with, who knows. I going ga ga on this swaging thing, just ordered from CH, 9 & 40 in the 101, now I'll have 5 sets, already have 3 sets in the 105's. Recently bought a bunch of swaging equipment from a person who had not used for about 20 yrs, included 2 corbin sets, 38/357 AAAAAANNNNNNDDDDDDDDDD a 3 die set for 22's. 6 months ago I had never poured a drop of lead in my life, been reloading for about 40 yrs or so, Now my boolit mold inventory is around 60 or so, also just picked up two star lubers and 5 H & G 6 cav molds---------NOW, am I HOOKED or WHAT? Hope I got the time to use em all. Thanks for all you do and share.

  19. #59
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    OH, and while I'm on a roll, as soon as I get some boolits turned out I'll take some pics, got it down pat on doing the XTP thing, also too round off the tips I have run them in a larger sizer die with a round nose bullet seater, does a pretty good job.

  20. #60
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    Awesome! You are going to like the 101 series dies compaired to the 105s. Do let us know how it goes and post ?s as needed. Everything you need to know is posted here somewhere too. When you run low on brass for bullets I know of a couple good sorces.

    BT
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check