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Thread: Lead pot II

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy

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    Lead pot II

    I see the different pots used for melting, has anyone figured how to make a large pot, dutch oven etc, with a bottom pour? I just got a stainless stock pot from a dollar store and started making some igots out of WW. I was trying to think how to valve the bottom, I figure someone here has done it.

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy kenjuudo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken O
    I see the different pots used for melting, has anyone figured how to make a large pot, dutch oven etc, with a bottom pour? I just got a stainless stock pot from a dollar store and started making some igots out of WW. I was trying to think how to valve the bottom, I figure someone here has done it.
    Ken O--I've done it a few times. Not too complicated, was posted on the old site by Buckshot. A cast iron pot works better for this. I could email ya some pics.

    jim

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

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  4. #4
    Boolit Master

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    Jim has a nice setup,

    I however after some thought decided to not go bottom pour, I often multi-task while I have a melt going and I like not worrying bout Dick Lee syndrome striking my smelter while I am not keeping an eye directly on it. I think Jim's setup could be adapted to a stainless stock pot if you stopped by a tig welders house with a 12 pack of cold beverage.

    Bill
    Both ends WHAT a player

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy kenjuudo's Avatar
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    As long as the SS pot is thick enough to resist flexing as it goes through the range of temperatures the turkey burner is gonna put it through. The bottom of a thin pot will flex as it heats up on a 170k BTU burner.

    I have never had a cast iron pot leak even when left for extended periods, I test drive every one I make and often run two at a time, I tend to let buckets of WW pile up during the winter. You can't have enough ingot molds!!

    jim

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy

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    I see Buckshot put the smelter on a stickey at the top of this fourm area. I'm going to try the SS first and if that doesnt work out I can go to cast or something else. I have the Tig outfit, I'm a retired welder/fabricator (boilermaker). I just needed some direction on how to valve the bottom, and it looks like Kenjuudo has got it figured out.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master wills's Avatar
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    Those dollar store stainless pots look real flimsy to contain that much alloy.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

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    Well as to flimsy, 100 lbs only ends up being about 5"-6" depth of liquid. I have done 5-6 batches in my 12 qt dollar store crockpot and it seems to work very well.

    The pot I made out of a freon bottle being carbon steel got real weird from being heated like that and oxidising. I re tack welded it to the stand and it burnt up much like an old brittle brass radiator does when you try to solder it.

    Bill
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  9. #9
    Boolit Master wills's Avatar
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    I guess it is a case of appearance being deceiving.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master

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    Jim, I sure don't want you to think I was throwing stones at your design, I'm quite sure it would work fine, and I might make one yet.

    I just went the belt and suspenders both route so far myself.


    Bill
    Both ends WHAT a player

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy

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    The 12 quart dollar store stock pot worked great, I did 100# of WW in three batches on a turkey cooker. It was plenty stable, I welded a piece of expanded metal on a piece of conduit to fish the clips out. I havent rigged up a bottom pour valve yet, that will be next.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check