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Thread: How to use a maxi ball?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    How to use a maxi ball?

    It was my understanding that a maxi ball is like a regular bullet- flat bottom, conical shape.

    I grasp the idea of a minie ball; undersized, the skirt opens up on firing.

    But how does a maxi ball work? If I'm wrong and it has a hollow base, great. If I'm right, it would seem to either be greatly undersized and ergo just rattle down the bore, or so oversized you'd need a hammer and long ram to get it down the barrel. More so than a wooden ramrod, given the large bearing surface vs. a round ball.

    What gives, what am I missing?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonk View Post
    It was my understanding that a maxi ball is like a regular bullet- flat bottom, conical shape.

    I grasp the idea of a minie ball; undersized, the skirt opens up on firing.

    But how does a maxi ball work? If I'm wrong and it has a hollow base, great. If I'm right, it would seem to either be greatly undersized and ergo just rattle down the bore, or so oversized you'd need a hammer and long ram to get it down the barrel. More so than a wooden ramrod, given the large bearing surface vs. a round ball.

    What gives, what am I missing?

    The Maxi-Ball has three large bearing bands. Starting from the base the first two are bore size and the one near the nose is almost groove size. This makes it fairly easy to seat atop the powder. When the powder burns and the pressure hits the bullet it tries to move it and what the bullet does is try to stay stationary and the pressure compresses it, obturating it to the bore/groove. It does work as I've recovered many and saw the proof. The bullet by the way is devastating on deer.

    Joe

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

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    maxi

    The theory by TC when it was developed was to provide a heavy conical for hunting using fairly heavy charges... something not practical with the minie. It is designed to be right at bore size on the bottom drive bands and be slightly larger than bore on the thinner top band. It could be started with finger pressure to that top band then started with a starter then rammed the rest of the way with the long rod. Inertial obturation of the bands into the lands at powder ignition would give enough engagement into the rifling to rotate/stabilize the bullet. They (TC) always recommended very soft alloy for the Maxi to help ensure that obturation.

    I shot them a lot. I used near pure lead and charges of about 90 gr FFg in the 1:48 TC 50 cal. I found that even the pure lead Maxi would fully penetrate most anything walking. I found accuracy to be OK out to about 100 yds. I also found that over time, if decent accuracy was to be maintained, a FULL cleaning program was needed. Namely a de-leading type cleaning in addition to the normal blackpowder/soapy water routine. One other thing I discovered thru trial and error and lots of shooting is that a felt base wad helps accuracy with the Maxi.
    Last edited by 405; 11-16-2009 at 06:41 PM.

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Yeah, what they said. It's a great and accurate bullet and is pure devistation to the animal struck with one.

  5. #5
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    I used a 333gr TC maxi hunter in this Lyman 50cal.

    at 60 yds facing me, I got penetration as long as my rifle with this deer.
    They work!

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master

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    They got it right. The maxi should go in tight. Not real tight but the base of the bullet should start with no force and the rest should take more effort with your starter. Roughly the same force it would take for a tight patched ball and once the rifling is ingraved in the bullet it will go easier. Just rub a little lube on it first.
    Aim small, miss small!

  7. #7
    Boolit Master

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    I have to use a soft hammer on my R.E.A.L.s. They sit in the bore real well, then need to be driven in.
    It is worth it though. They shoot real well.
    I have used lapping compound on the R.E.A.L.s on my wife's .54.
    Cleaned up her bore nicely. It was an old bore that had a few shots fired through it, then put up for sale. I bought it nearly 20yrs after it had been fired.

  8. #8
    Boolit Mold
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    Is there any hope to using wheel weight lead to case REAL bullets? Or would it be too hard to load?

  9. #9
    Boolit Master

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    Wheel weight lead is ok for R.E.A.L.s. You have to hammer them in anyway.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master 1874Sharps's Avatar
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    Blammer,

    Nice buck you got there! Maybe next time I go out I will take the T/C 50 cal and see if I can get me one of those there thangs. I have a T/C Maxi mold (got it cheap of a bargain table years ago) but have not used it thus far, opting to shoot patch and ball. I bet that deer did not wander far after meeting Mr. Maxi.

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I have a T/C .50 Maxi Ball mould and it works exactly as advertised and the bullet fits properly.

    In the 1-48 twist T/C barrels accuracy can be a little problematic in many cases, as in my opinion the twist rate is marginal to stabilize the long projectile especially with the lighter powder charges. The Max Ball is a longer bullet than the Maxi Hunter in 50 caliber, and this makes a difference.

    If accuracy is marginal with the Maxi Ball, up the powder charges to maximum for the .50 and try again. If accurcy is still poor, try 777 as the velocity is 150 to 200 fps higher than a like charge of Pyrodex or black and this may help accuracy.

    Recoil starts to hurt with the hard buttplate on many rifles at the higher velocities. Such is life.

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy jbc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by docone31 View Post
    Wheel weight lead is ok for R.E.A.L.s. You have to hammer them in anyway.
    i wish I had to hammer them in - i've tried them in 3 different .50 cal thompson center hawken flinters and you have to hold the muzzle up to keep them from falling out. It's not the boolits fault as i cant get anything to fit the oversize tc bores (other than a THICK patch and roundball)

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbc View Post
    i wish I had to hammer them in - i've tried them in 3 different .50 cal thompson center hawken flinters and you have to hold the muzzle up to keep them from falling out. It's not the boolits fault as i cant get anything to fit the oversize tc bores (other than a THICK patch and roundball)

    you must have a barrel on the large size of the tolerance. both of my T/C 's are 501" across the lands. T/C .50 cal bullets usually measure .504-.505" on the front driving band. Hornady Great Plains bullets are .509-.510" so maybe those would be big enough for a snug fit. that is always been one of my gripes with ML's- no standards for barrel size.
    Last edited by 451whitworth; 12-08-2009 at 08:30 PM. Reason: spelling

  14. #14
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    What do you guys use to lube your Maxi-balls? TC's yellow goo seems to work well, but it's a runny mess at Texas temperatures, especially in off-season practice.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by crawfobj View Post
    What do you guys use to lube your Maxi-balls? TC's yellow goo seems to work well, but it's a runny mess at Texas temperatures, especially in off-season practice.
    Add some beeswax, to stiffen it up. That is the base wax in the mixture.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy Greg in Malad's Avatar
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    I pan lube with Lars black powder lube, I dont think Glen is making any right now, so any BPCR lube should work.

  17. #17
    Boolit Buddy
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    Melt them and cast some RB's

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BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
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