So if I TL my CB's with LLA (or 'MS") w/or without JPW, which my LGS won't have then my CB's will be AOK and I won't be SOL?
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So if I TL my CB's with LLA (or 'MS") w/or without JPW, which my LGS won't have then my CB's will be AOK and I won't be SOL?
Charlie
"The fool has said in his heart, There is no God" Psalm 53:1
Here is a link to an article Buckshot wrote on honing out a Lee sizer to your desired size.Originally Posted by Lever-man
http://www.castpics.net/subsite2/How...Size%20Die.pdf
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I didn't have time to make a batch of Recluse lube...didn't think it would get up to a boil since it was so cold out either. So I just added 50% JPW and 50% LLA to the tiny bity of 45/45/10 lube that I had left. I used this on 350 boolits. I'll report back if there are any negative results. Maybe this will be just fine...why boil out the solvents just to add more in (mineral spirits) if it isn't needed I figure.
You cannot strengthen the weak by weakening the strong.
You cannot bring about prosperity by discouraging thrift.
You cannot lift the wage earner up by pulling the wage payer down.
You cannot further brotherhood of a man by inciting class hatred.
You cannot build character and courage by taking away people’s initiative and independence.
You cannot help people permanently by doing for them, what they could and should do for themselves.
Well I'm sure others here are more knowledgeable; But I do have a scientific background and it would be my best guess is that in the original Recluse formula the "boiling" of the JPW does not only remove the excess solvents, as most Folks think, but along with that it sets up a pre-oxidation of the wax base which in turn causes the finished lube to set up faster & harder. In the end the 10 % added solvent is only to thin out the "new compound" ( of LLA and Johnson base waxes) since this oxidation took place already, it has become a different animal, then just mixing LLA & JPW without the boiling.
This is similar to what the old cabinet makers would do with pure linseed oil. It would be boiled to cause oxidation then it would be poured into lead troughs, where it sat open to the air ( absorbing oxigen & small amounts of lead which in turn also acted as a drying agent) The skin would form over it but it was openened when needed and some oxidized oil was removed and mixed with turps to make a rubbing finish. It would dry ( set up) much faster then the pure linseed oil & turps.........Also on the culinary side chefs "scald" milk for certain recipes. So in my opinion, if it requires heating to make it there has to be a reason. Ever taste instant oatmeal? not the same as the long cooking kind but they both are oats.
" Associate with men of good quality, if you esteem your own reputation: for it is better to be alone than in bad company. " George Washington
What does oxidation do as far as lubrication properties.
Having it set up faster is not of concern because it set up just fine. The 50/50 JPW/LLA was mixed with an equal amt of 45/45/10...so perhaps that's why. It did get heat to melt in my mini crock pot that I dip the boolits into.
Last edited by youngda9; 01-19-2014 at 12:09 PM.
You cannot strengthen the weak by weakening the strong.
You cannot bring about prosperity by discouraging thrift.
You cannot lift the wage earner up by pulling the wage payer down.
You cannot further brotherhood of a man by inciting class hatred.
You cannot build character and courage by taking away people’s initiative and independence.
You cannot help people permanently by doing for them, what they could and should do for themselves.
What kind of lead are you using; pure lead, alloy, etc.
I'm not saying that it has any changes to lubrication properties...JMHO that the oxidation of the JPW may make a difference in it's set up properties
Make of it what you will.
The article is on Recluse's 45/45/10 The original as made that way ( & I will continue that way) otherwise maybe one should change the thread And describe their own formula for us to consider. Again JMHO
" Associate with men of good quality, if you esteem your own reputation: for it is better to be alone than in bad company. " George Washington
Would anyone mind posting some pics of their 45/45/10 lubed bullets?
I just started trying this pouring a Lil of the White Label into a 20oz warming with hot water. It gets really thin and then applying. I found one coat wasn't enough and was getting muzzle leading. Just did them again for a 2nd coat but still not sure if its enough. I think I might be warming it up too much.
Hey Mike, no boolit that I have ever TLed got more than two coats. If you can see the lube, then you've got too much (speaking strictly for my own 45/45/10 recipe ala Recluse)
I have driven 358 caliber rifle boolits to 1800fps with no visible signs of leading whatsoever. When it comes to TL, less is more.
Precision in the wrong place is only a placebo.
LLA only: if you can SEE the LLA, you have used too much. Thus, if you SEE any brown, amber, yellow, you have used too much.
I continue to recommend that folks try NOT sizing any bullets first and see how that works. It's worked for me for over 35 years.
I haven't used 45/45/10, as I haven't cast any bullets in a couple of years, but would think that it would be a much better choice for those who "demand" to see the lube on the bullet.
Awesome tuturiol "THUMBSUP". I think its neat that this 4yr old link still works for jpw! I was worried it would be unavailable.
Im only on page 5 of this thread
Last edited by BPrezPB; 02-19-2014 at 07:44 PM. Reason: Update
Not if you are a clutzy blockhead like me, at any rate. Was finishing up a batch but had some leftover LLA in a 1/4 cup meauring tin to make room for the concotion in the Lee bottles. It was resting on the not quite closed JPW can lid. Went to finish closing the JPW...
Warm LLA all over the floor!
Otherwise, the 45-45-10 is much nicer than straight or MS thinned LLA.
Got any tips for cleaning LLA out of a carpet????
Jim
"The problem with quotes on the internet is that it is hard to verify their authenticity." - Thomas Jefferson 1803
Not yet. Give it time.
Loading some boolits for lube tests in .357 mag. Won't be breaking any new ground, I reckon, except it may be instructive as to what the various revolvers like, individually.
The S&W 25-5 .45 Colts have very different likes. Annoying, that.
Those are very nice looking bullets. What do you use to measure your quantities or do you just eye ball it?
I like to lube mine 2-3 time's and build up a heavy coating of lube.
But I shoot all my cast out of rifle's
Got a tin of JPW at HomeDepot. Heated it in an old stainless steel kitchen sauce pan on a 900 watt electric hotplate. I checked the temp once it became liquid with a non-contact infrared thermometer. I think some folks are heating the JPW way too hot in the attempt to 'boil off' the thinner. This stuff does not need to actually boil for the thinner to evaporate. 250 degrees does the job just fine, only took 30 minutes and there was never any danger of setting it on fire. It might have worked just as well at less than 250 degrees but I wanted to maintain a constant temp while counting down the minutes until only one quarter of the quantity remained.
I used pharmacy pill bottles to measure the equal parts of JPW and XLOX + a splash of mineral spirits/paint thinner/Stoddard solvent--all the same stuff. It did become solid once it cooled but nuking in a microwave oven or using a hand held heat gun returns it to liquid quite easily.
It works as advertized. Coats the same way as LLA...I use a recycled plastic tub...but dries faster with a, as best as I can explain it, hard shell. Non sticky and doesn't attract lint. Down the barrel, it lubricates just as good as 100% LLA.
So far I've tried 9x19, 38spcl and 45ACP.
My only regret is I could have saved some time and $$$ by buying White Label Lubes' 45/45/10 already mixed and packaged. If I would have known about it sooner, that's the way I would have gone. Thanks Recluse for this recipe.
Thank you Recluse, Getting ready to load my first cast boolits soon and this is helpful.
"Failure to prepare is preparing to fail" - Benjamin Franklin
I am just starting to cast and was planning on using the 45-45-10 mix to lube. My question is that I have read that using TightGroup powder tends to make a lot of smoke when shooting cast bullets. How does the 45-45-10 mix do when using hotter powders? In todays times we can't always get the powder of choice... I do have several pounds of TightGroup that will keep me shooting for awhile.
TiteGroup? That is one hot powder. My magnum cases aren't as hot as a light load of TiteGroup in .45 Auto. I always wonder if it will prematurely erode the throat of the barrel.
I don't care about smoke, I don't see smoke when I am shooting. It isn't a concern. concentrate on the front sight and NOT on anything else. Even in the "blast and pray" days of IPSC, I never saw my smoke.
TiteGroup, however, burns very hot and doesn't always "play nice" with lead bullets-often throwing them all over the target. TiteGroup also doesn't always do well with coated or powder-sprayed bullets. It does much better with plated or jacketed.
Thus, I can't say that it will or won't smoke more, just that it is not among my first choice for shooting lead bullets--it may work great in your gun or it may work as poorly as it does in mine. But, if the smoke relates at all to powder burn temperature, and I don't think it does, then it would be a smoker in all cases.
So, the only way for you to know is to go and shoot some.
I tend to go with 231/HP38, AA2, and Solo 1000 for fast powders as these work well in all my guns that I use with a fast powder.
As far as powders go, I've been looking for Power Pistol for at least 1.5 years and haven't found any. I have been "a day late" several times.
My own recommendation is cast, inspect bullet bases and reject all that don't have a fully filled out base, lube them as-cast in 45/45/10 or LLA and have fun. Then, tell us your results. I wouldn't bother with water quenching--the extra hardness is not significant and, back in the '70s and '80s, when I water quenched I found that the lead alloy of that time lost the hardness when it was sized (sized my rifle bullets since it was easier to lube them in a lubri-sizer than trying to pan lube long skinny bullets and they "had" to have a gas check any way) when I checked the BHN of the sized section (the bore-riding section or whatever the exact term is).
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| BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
| BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
| BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
| C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
| HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
| PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
| LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
| GC | Gas Check |
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