I thinking on mixing 3 parts lead to 1 part lino for use in my 45acp lyman 452460 only. Paper target shooting. This would be stick on WW and pure lead. I'm keeping the clip on WW for use in my 9mm, .357 and 44. Or should I try 2 lead 1 lino?
I thinking on mixing 3 parts lead to 1 part lino for use in my 45acp lyman 452460 only. Paper target shooting. This would be stick on WW and pure lead. I'm keeping the clip on WW for use in my 9mm, .357 and 44. Or should I try 2 lead 1 lino?
I mix 2 ingots range scrap with one of WW to use in the 1911, .40 S&W, and .38/357.
This shoots fine with no leading. If I want to move a bit faster with the .357 with a 170 gr Lyman 358429, I go 50/50 WW/Range scrap. All my boolits get water dropped out of the mold and are plenty hard for my purposes.
50/50 should work fine in the 9mm for target shooting. Boolit fit to the bore is as important as hardness of the alloy.
Your alloy mix would probably be somewhere between clip on WW and hardball, but closer to clip ons. Plenty hard for your purposes. You may try cutting 3.5:1 or 4:1 to stretch your lino.
Shiloh
Last edited by Shiloh; 10-12-2009 at 11:21 PM.
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the 3-1 would be fairly close to ww alloy.
like was said it will probably work fine but to me linotype is getting so tough to find that id hate to use it just to get an alloy simular to ww when wws are still relitively easy to find. I use most of mine to alloy 5050 ww/lino for rifle bullets and pistol bullets used to hunt bigger animals.
Yes. 3:1 makes an alloy that is near perfect match for WW. And it shoots and cast well.
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I don't see where you're using a Linotype mix. The sticky WWs are pert near lead, or the ones I keep running into are. The water-quenching might bring the hardness up, but I have my doubts.
I use powdered antimony, and stick tin, to get where I want to be. I get some pure lead, from time to time, but mostly add stuff to WWs.
That being said, I usually use WW plus 2% tin to shoot in my .45 ACP. I've tried Lino but can find no advantage. I shoot plates, and steel, but I STILL experiment to get the best accuracy. I want my misses to be mine, not the gun's.
I agree that bullet diameter is more important than alloy, in a slow cartridge like the .45. A 10mm or 9mm might be slightly different.
Have fun,
Gene
Thanks, I'll try the 3-1 mix this weekend
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |