Problem with new mold

[will-mo]

I just got my new mold from MP. Its a fantastic looking .45 SWC in the H&G design. When I was preparing my mold for the first pour ( cleaning/ degreasing) I noticed that I could see light through the closed mold in the center. I'm new to this stuff, so I didn't think it was a huge deal. Its not like the gap was more than a hair wide so I continued with my plan to pour some bullets.

I've used a Lee .452 SWC mold with great results, also a NEI RN. I'm using 20# WW and 2# 50/50 solder as my alloy. I don't see anything wrong with the mold, but I'm not very skilled at this sort of thing.

Here are my results. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks,
Will

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

[AZ-Stew]

Are you using a bottom-pour pot with the spout stuck into the sprue plate countersink? If so, you're pressure casting and forcing alloy into the vent lines of the mould. Scrape them off and shoot the boolits (they're excellent castings), or start casting with about 3/4 - 1 inch between the spout and the sprue plate. Let the melt run into the mould and allow it to form a puddle on top of the sprue plate. When you see the puddle sink in the vicinity of the hole in the sprue plate, wait a couple more seconds for it to harden, then cut the sprue. Your flashing should disappear and you should have completely filled boolits with no base voids.

Regards,

Stew

[will-mo]

I've got about 1 - 1.5" between the bottom pour spout and the sprue plate.

Maybe reduce the rate of flow?
What about the hair of a gap in the mold? Should I be concerned? Maybe I need to really clean the mold faces better?

I'm pouring with this mold, just like I use my Lee molds.

Thanks,
Will

[geargnasher]

Ah, whiskers!

That just means you have good fillout, could be that 5% tin is a bit much, (low surface tension) but those sure are purty! Don't worry about the whiskers until you've finished loading and crimping and just wipe off the stragglers on the nose with a quick twist in a rag.

One caveat, though, mic those boolits and make certain they are ROUND. If you do indeed have blocks that are gapping in the middle, your boolits will be elliptical. It they are round, you are GTG.

Gear

[Le Loup Solitaire]

Really nice bullet design and you are doing very well with it. When your mold gets broken in a bit more, the slight "light hair" you see between the blocks probably will diminish and/or go away. You're using a fair amount of tin and thats ok; tin increaes the flowability of the melt and makes sharper castings. What you do have is a case of "pressure whiskers" and a trace of flashing. the whisker(s) can be popped off with a fingernail and that'll also get the small amount of flash off as well. Backing off on the pressure by leaving some space between the spout and the spruecutter pour hole will usually do that or cutting the diameter of the pour stream a bit. The stream diameter should be slightly smaller than the pourhole anyway to let any trapped air to get by it. AZstew also gave you some good advice for managing the sprue puddle. Your bullets look real good and should shoot vwey well. Good luck on your new mold/ LLS

[will-mo]

Thanks guys.. I'll reduce the amount of tin and not worry about it the whiskers. I guess the main pain in the rear is they don't drop very easily with those whiskers..

I was worried that the mold was bad. I heard so many wonderful things about this mold..

Thanks again,
Will

[will-mo]

Well, maybe I should have got out the mic before responded to the last post...

I get a bullet that is .4535 and .4560

Is that a problem?

Will

[AZ-Stew]

Not if you size it. It will get round in the sizer.

BTW, I didn't see the alloy earlier. The extra Tin in the mix will cause the whiskers to form more readily.

Regards,

Stew

[will-mo]

Picture of mould held together tightly and place in front of light..

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

[shotman]

I will agree with above about the tin. Are you running a HOT melt? You will need to size those for sure If you are using in a simi auto. Check the sticky above about the Kroil

[SierraWhiskeyMC]

You're casting Daleks!

EX-TERM-IN-ATE! EX-TERM-IN-ATE!

Seriously though, they look great.

The mold does look like it has rather a large amount of light shining through it. Less tin and perhaps a bit lower temp could do the trick for you.

[Echo]

I've got to disagree - I would send that mold back and ask nicely for a replacement. There is absolutely no excuse for a mold with that gap to leave the factory.

[Marlinreloader]

I've got to disagree - I would send that mold back and ask nicely for a replacement. There is absolutely no excuse for a mold with that gap to leave the factory.

I agree Echo, That should be sent back. You paid good money to get a good mold. In my opionion that is too much gap. Iv'e never had a Lee that bad before. That would sure explain the difference in side size.

Nice looking boolits, appearence wise.
Marlinreloader

[AZ-Stew]

After seeing the photo, I agree with the above two posts. Send it back.

Having said that, and with reference to another recent thread, here's the mould blocks that someone said couldn't be warped! Too much lead dipping and water dunking!

Regards,

Stew

[runfiverun]

i'd e-mail that pic to them....
holy cow i was thinking hairline crack i am surprised you could keep the lead in the mold.

[DLCTEX]

Wow! And people bad mouth Lee molds. Send it back.

[randyrat]

Was it that way before you started or before any lead touched that mold? If not it may be a tiny little piece or two of lead that is preventing the mold from closing all the way.
I just cleaned a mold up yesterday that was giving me a headache, i could see light between the blocks. Before i took a big hammer to it, i ceaned it one more time and found a little tiny spot of lead that made the mold look like it was warped.
After i cleaned that out it made nice boolits again.

Sometimes a real sharp dental pick will help and a magnifing glass. Heating the mold up makes removing those tiny spots of lead easier.

[armyrat1970]

I have a Lee mold for the 357 that shows a little hairline crack when closed but I don't get the whiskers you are having. Was wondering if that gap would effect it but so far so good. (understand your mold is not a Lee) My only problem with it so far seems I have to be very careful when closing the mold and tap one side on a flat surface or the blocks don't align right. Other than that, it drops good boolits.

[Matt_G]

Check the block faces for lead spatters and burrs; use a magnifying glass.
Something is obviously preventing the blocks from closing properly. Either that or they are warped.
If you can't resolve the problem yourself, send MiHec a PM or e-mail with a link to that picture and I'm sure he will make things right for you.

[will-mo]

Guys, Thanks for the responses.

This isn't a lee mould. I received the mold on Wednesday and noticed the gap while prepping the mould for its first pour. I decided to give it a shot and see what results I get.

Since I usually use Lee moulds, I run my pot hot and add tin to the mix. I'm going to reduce heat and tin and see what results I get. I'm communicating with the Mould manufacturer too.

Thanks,
Will