I shot a guys #1 at the range the other day. It was in 45-70 Deadly accurate at 100 yds with his hand loads. Trigger pull was very crisp and smooth, not too firm yet not too soft. I now want to get one.
I shot a guys #1 at the range the other day. It was in 45-70 Deadly accurate at 100 yds with his hand loads. Trigger pull was very crisp and smooth, not too firm yet not too soft. I now want to get one.
If grasshoppers carried .45's the birds wouldnt mess with them.
The mystic of the single shot falling block design is something that many fall in love with. I have and have had a few #1's and #3's. Currently I have a #1 in 6mm Rem, #3's in 45-70, 375 Win, 44 mag and recently sold my 30-40 Krag (first #3) to fellow cast boolit member Typecaster. They all are fantastic guns but you must realized their ability and short comings. Do a google search and you will learn a lot.
I noticed the mention of checking out the Thompson series (Contenders & Encores). I fell for that one too thinking that I could do more for less money. Don't be fooled. After picking up 5 frames and about 2 dozen barrels I have concluded that a full on Contender / Encore cost about the same as a #1 when you consider custom barrels alone are upwards of $400 and when you add a few more $$ for a good set of scope bases you are right at the price (if you search hard) of a #1.
Robert
"The only way to deal with an unfree world is to become so absolutely free that your very existence is an act of rebellion."
- Albert Camus -
Got four of the beasties right now.
A 375 H & H which is good for 1-1/2" at 100 yards, a 30/06 which is good for less that 1" at 100 yards, a .223 which is a 1" rifle and a custom .38-55 which will shoot 1" with about any bullet I feed it. I like 'em.
They do have their faults as has been mentioned and forend bedding is one. Another is they have a very slow lock time hence a Mould hammer spring kit is in order. The triggers are so-so but can be tuned or replaced by a Moyer adjustable or if you got deep pockets...a Keplinger single set trigger. The last beef is the eye releif with high power scopes is hard to get right. Seems like there never enough adjustment even with extension rings.
They're a bear to reassemble and normally, I clean all four at once because I forget how to put them back together if I do them one at a time but this is an operator problem.
They're great rifles and if you're willing to overlook the things above and work with them, you'll love them. Everyone should have one...or two...or three./beagle
diplomacy is being able to say, "nice doggie" until you find a big rock.....
Hi Guys,
I have one that makes me CRAZY !30-06)
Some time I cannot miss, other days the target looks like a shotgun pattern!
Fooled with the hanger screw, took the forend off & shot it.
I'm using the SAME loads each time! The load shoots well in my other two
30-06's ALL the time!
I do let the thin barrel cool between 5 shot groups.
Have switched out the scopes & shot with iron sights TOO! Depending on the day it's good or just UGLY!
I did clear a little wood from one side of the forend, it did not make any change one way or the other.
I can slip a dollar bill into the gap on both sides of the barrel/ forend with no problems.
Do you guys have any secrets for tuning a #1
Best,
broom
I've a ruger #1 in 45/70. Actually looks kinda business like when you load her up with a 500gr cast boolit and then to proceed to launch it down range. Velocity was about 1200 fps so no sound breaking missile flying through the air. Only real bitch I have about it is that ruger should have started them out with 28" long barrels when they first came out. They would have a trouble selling them then. Still the stock line could have been raised to be more scope friendly. I say this as when I shoulder my ruger and look through the irons I'm basically looking at the center of the breech block. The stock is a bit too long by about an inch I have to climb over the stock to use the scope. I do like the alexander henry forend on my #1. Need to do some serious casting and put that group buy mold we did for the Fat .462 400 grain bullet.And find a better way of storing ingots. Having 300lbs in a plastic pail does not make them any easier to move them around. Am thinking seriously of mounting a redfield olympic target sight somehow and a globe frong sight. The crappy irons you get with rugers don't amount to a hill of beans. Frank
I have a .458WM and like it a lot, mainly becuase I can shoot everything from round ball to 520 grain Lee's. There are though a lot of things I didn't like that I've either changed or are planning on doing. I stripped the awful polyurethane stock finish and now have a silky smooth oil finish. The trigger needed work and the Williams rear sight does not look the part. The safety seems to have been designed by Stevie Wonder and the LOP is not enough. I would suggest though that if you go for the model with the foresight, that you go for one or the large .45 calibers. Ruger have stuck with a one-sight-fits-all policy, hence, the front sight on the .22 calibers say looks like a big blob of playdough.
Well - this has been an interesting thread. I've always admired the looks of the #1 but I've never owned one. Most of the stuff I've read about 'em over the years has led me to expect less than great accuracy. I've read about the forend hanger issues - I've read about the barrel quality issues, I've met and talked to shooters who were disappointed, and heard that Ruger's response to their complaints was "3 MOA? It meets our standards. Go away." That didn't surprise me much - I've owned a few Ruger centerfire rifles over the years and they've ranged from "not particularly great" to "downright atrocious" in accuracy.
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My gunschmidt buddy says some Rugers shoot really, really good...
His exact words were closer to "They'll either shoot like crap or really, really good. There's no in-between." Guess I just never got lucky - and I got tired of feeling like a gambler bucking a stacked deck when I bought a rifle. I've pretty much reached the personal conclusion "If you want accuracy, don't buy a Ruger rifle."
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I'm frankly surprised to read in this thread about so many #1s that shoot MOA or better. I've been tempted by their looks before but I've always managed to resist because I like accurate rifles and I didn't expect to find it in a Ruger. Maybe I'll have to look at 'em again - maybe even give in to the temptation. Heck - the worst that can happen is I get burned one more time...
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Uncle R.
I've got a 70's vintage 1B in 300 win mag. It is one tack drivin' piece of iron, but what I like the most is the balance of the rifle. It's probably the quickest to put up and on target of all my rifles.
Clover leafs off the bench at 100.
I've shot 3" groups- off hand pretty consitantly at 100. Copper.
I only have one Ruger No.1, caliber 9.3x74R. It knocks the squeel right out of wild hogs. I would like one in 458 Win Mag but now the only 45 calibers are 45-70 or 458 Lott. I don't need a 458 Lott and the brutal recoil. A 458 Win with cast bullet loads would be just right for me or the hogs.
RR, I can tell you where there is one , used , in 458mag. Friend used to have one. I have one the the Wilson barrel ones, in 45-70, don't shoot it as it wanders about a foot from shot to shot, but its a Liberty year gun, so its in the safe. After that, I have the 357Max, 7.62 x 39, 35 Whelen, 405win, 375 H&H and 50-70govt.
The Max (I did the rechamber) is an amazing gun. I can stick a 180gr boolit at 2400fps, but unfortunately, the best grouping is a J-word at about 1.5" at 100. Most all shoot 1.5 @100, but if they had a better trigger pull, it would shrink. The only complaint I have about the gun is the trigger.
Dogg... you didnt happen to trade it at the Austin TX gun show downtown in 92 ????
I picked up the same type there 375 H&H, great wood early 70's vintage. Shot Win super X 270 gr 3 shots in 1 big hole @100 yds. Been playin with Hdy 225 sp J-words ( varmint load) Just got a lyman 375449(?) 268 gr mould in and cant wait to try it.
Got to get down below 105* F first.
broomhandle, C.E. Harris (NRA, CBA, Ed's Red creator, etc.) used to work for Ruger and wrote an article about the #1's in "American Rifleman" some years ago. He said that if you got one that consistently shot 1.5" or less @ 100 yds., you should consider yourself lucky. Part of the problem was the fore end hangar, the rest was the variable quality of the barrels Ruger used. Now having said this, I must also say that I own one (.243Win.) and I've only seen 2 others (.30-06's, one with a bull bbl.) and all three shot extremely well with jacketed bullets. In the .243Win., cast bullets shoot into < 1.5" @ 100 yds., sometimes into <1". Btw, I discovered that the fore end on my rifle was screwed on so tightly that it wore the blueing off the bbl. where it made contact. You may want to try the very inexpensive fore end fix of using one of those ~3/4" x 3/4" flat plastic things that you find on [plastic] bread loaf bags to supply the "proper" tension: Cut it to fit the flat at the bottom of the hanger and use contact cement to hold it in place, then screw the fore end in place.
Gunfixer, wasn't my gun traded it in Upstate NY for a Belgium Browning .338mag..Still have the Browning and have only shot it once but it on of those with the claw extractor and gold filled scroll work. To be hones though really wish I had the No1 instead!
I would consider buying a #1 in .375H&H if I knew for sure it had enough throat to handle castings from the readily available molds, seated out so the lube wouldn't be below the case neck. Since #1's in .375H&H have 12" twists, I would also hope that 300 to 350 grain boolits can be chambered. If not, I think I'll just have a custom 280 grain mold cut to fit my .350RM.
MJ
I have a #1 which is currently wearing a Win. Natl. Match barrel,chambered in 30-30. It also has a Canjor set trigger. While I have several very nice single shot rifles,it will probably be the last one to go. I have one minor complaint. The screw that holds it all together tends to back out of the side of the action during each shooting session. I am aware that I could put lock-tite on it I always seem to forget once I get home. Oh well , as I said it's only a miner complaint.
During the 70's I bought a used Number 1-v that had been rebarrelled to a 25 Super that always shot from 1/2 to 1/13 inch groups. Had to sell it after I had worn out the barrel and I divorced in 1978. I still wish I had that rifle.
Bought a Number 1-B in 338 Win Mag at a Austin gun show in the mid 80's for 200 bucks. It was pretty rusty and had a bunch of scabbard wear, but always shot 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inch groups and beat the hell out of me. After I tired of the recoit I traded it for a Remington700 varmit in 223 that I still have and it is now on it's second barrel.
I have been thinking lately that I need to get another one this time in 45/70.
big Dale
Here's my circa 1978. It's sportin' a nice old Leupold VariX-III now since the old scope busted me in the eyebrow ...
Been carried and hunted much with, but not hardly fired. Not normal for such a beautiful rifle. Picked it up in a hawk shop for $300.
I think one day all these Number 1's are gonna be serious collectors.
PatMarlin:
How about a close-up photo of that stock ?
BEAUTIFUL !
Jerry
S&W .38/44 Outdoorsman Accumulator
I have four #1's. 22-250, 25-06, 300Win Mag, and 458 Win Mag. I love them all but they all required a lot of forend tinkering to make them shoot. It was all hanger problems. The cure is to appoxy a small block of plastic onto the barrel above the forend, relieve a notch on the forend, drill a small screw hole though it and run a screw up though to make contact with the block that can be tweaked.
This will allow you to fine tune the resonance when fireing. It is like the Browning system. All of my rifles now shoot sub minute of angle and they are all 70's-80's mfg. when Ruger sub'd out their barrel sources.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |