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Thread: Ruger #1?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    2ndAmendmentNut's Avatar
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    Ruger #1?

    Hey everyone,

    Just curious as to opinions on the Ruger #1. Like the look of the gun but never shot one. How are they right out of the box? How’s trigger pull and accuracy (after barrel break in of course)? What are common modifications or upgrades that #1 owners do besides attaching a scope? I have yet to decide on a caliber, but the 308win and 45-70 are at the top right now.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    Careful, you are cruising headlong into an addiction.
    I never thought I'd have more than one gun that nice. I've got two and almost bought another about a month ago.
    I've got a 1A 7x57 and a .45-70. They point like birdguns and definitely shoot minute of deer. I've never done much load development with either but the 7mm has never fired a group over 1-1/2" @ 100 and the .45-70 is hanging around 3/4" @ 50 (with iron sights).
    Trigger pull on the 7mm is 4.5 lbs but breaks clean, the .45-70 is lighter but I think it had been worked over before I bought it.
    Some folks re work the forend bedding which can be a little touch and go from the factory, but mine shoot very well enough for what they were intended. I could be a little more demanding but neither is my go to groundhog rig.
    I've never fooled with the 1B's or Varmint models, but the lighter ones are a joy to pack and point.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    I've had one in .308 Win since Christmas Day, 1968. It's my deer rifle. It is the only rifle in my collection that will never be for sale. Great shooting rifle, easy to carry, amazingly easy to hit with. Mine wears a Weaver K4 that was installed on it in January of 1969. From a bench it will put the first shot out of a clean cold barrel into the 10 ring at 100 yards every time. After that it begins stringing the shots up 1 1/2" and groups them at 2". So mine's not a target rifle, but if I get a clear shot out to 300 yds or so, at a deer, I can figure on liver and onions that night in camp.

    Gerry N.

  4. #4
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    I have two #1B, one in 7mm Rem Mag, the other rechambered to 30/06 A.I. I had the safeties relieved a bit so my empties wouldn't catch on them, added Limbsavers to both, to the '06 I had the trigger worked on , and on the 7 mag I replaced the trigger with a Moyers, and had it adjusted really light. With my handloads they both shoot very well, even my case forming loads in the A.I. are capable of hitting where I aim @ 200 yards. Surprised the devil out of me....
    Tom
    μολὼν λαβέ


    Did I ever mention that I hate to trim brass?

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    I had 1V's in 220 , 6mm and 25-06 about 20 years ago that shot great but I kinda lost intrest in them .About 10 years ago I had a 1B in 22-250 and a 1H in 375 H&H MAG and again I kinda lost intrest even though they shot very nicely .

    Now I have another 1V in 220 as well as a 22-250AI . A 1H in 416 REM MAG and 1B's in 22 Hornet , 243 , 6mm , 257 Roberts , 280 and 270 Weatherby . I think this time they may just stick around a good long while .
    Parker's , 6.5mm's and my family in the Philippines

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    I have owned 2 #1's. A 22-250 varmit model and a 7 mm Mag 1B. Both guns had forearm tension problems when first shot. It was at one time expected on #1's and many articles were written about it. Once cured the rifle is a tack driver. Mine would blow up crows at 250 yds and beyond. It's bbl was finally done in by a friend who borrowed it for a praire dog trip. The 7 Mag took and filled my freezer every year with more deer meat than we could eat. There is a certain pleasure that one gets when shooting single shot rifles that can not be described. If it's in your blood then you will pursue it. I now favor the 1874 Sharps for my shooting with BP but the #1 is still in my heart. Later David
    Shooter of the "HOLY BLACK" SASS 81802 AKA FAIRSHAKE; NRA ; BOLD; WARTHOG;Deadwood Marshal;Bayou Bounty Hunter; So That his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who neither know victory nor defeat; 44 WCF filled to the top, 210 gr. bullet

  7. #7
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    It seems that I'm in very good company here, because I too am a true devotee of the #1 rifle.

    It's a throwback to the wonderful British single-shots of the early smokeless-powder era. Although it's modern in all senses of the word, its probably the finest-looking single-shot ever built. I prefer the appearance and handling of the #1 to any other single-shot I ever seen or handled, including those which cost four or five times as much (or more), AND the old British singles.

    I have to admit that stainless steel and laminated stocks do nothing for me. Still, the mere fact that such #1s seem to sell rather well implies that SOME shooters are fighting the traditional approach even though they like the single-shot. Heh....we'll get 'em yet! Blue steel and nice walnut are the "proper" garb for such rifles.

    I'd hunt anything, anywhere, with a #1 of a proper and relevant chambering....without a qualm or question in my heart.

    The last two rifles I've bought are about as far from the #1 as it's possible to get. A Mini-14 (blue/walnut) and a DSA FAL (blue/walnut...yes, on an FAL) have taken up residence in the last month or so. It may be time for a companion to my .416 Rigby #1H. I am distinctly poor in the #1 department right now.
    Regards from BruceB in Nevada

    "The .30'06 is never a mistake." - Colonel Townsend Whelen

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

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    I loved mine.
    I had a #1 Tropical in .375 H&H. I removed the spring ejector so I had to physically remove the brass. It is expensive. I installed a Triple Field Pad, oiled the daylights out of the stock, rebarreled it with a series 99 A&B barrel. I had a trigger job done on it. While rebarreling it, I had a colour case hardening on the reciever. I jeweled the block.
    It was a good, fast pointing, with the heavy barrel good shooting rifle. I had express sights installed. Not so good for target work, but, would work well in the field.
    It seems to be a rough copy of the Farquarson.
    With the large calibers, it can be punishing, but, with two rounds in the hand, you can get off three fast shots that will hit well.
    I really loved that rifle!
    It is a good, solid, good feeling rifle. Something about single shots.
    Well worth the money.
    Laminated never got me, so I always lean towards conventional woods stocks.
    The field pad did make a difference. The strip of rubber pad hurt after 10 rds of .375 H&H.
    If I did it this time, I would go 30-06.

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master
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    One #1 here, in 45-70. SUPERB. It is a cast boolit machine, once you get boolits fat enough to fit (.459" throat and grooves). Eight-groove right pitch of about 1-20" or 22", "Government Ballseat", land height is .449". With aperture irons, It will do 1.25"-1.5" with castings at 100 yards all day long.

    The rifle is strong enough to contain some pretty stout loads. Rest assured, your shoulder will give out long before the action will--given the rifle's weight of 7.25#. I have come to enjoy 1873-level load duplicators, 405 grain boolits running 1300-1350 FPS. These subjectively feel like heavy trap loads in a fine double gun, and both Marie and the kids can fire them and enjoy the ride. That such loads can make venison or tip over elk with good placement is beside the point.......they are all-day target intensity, if ya don't mind spending the lead.

    One of my first centerfire rifles was a Ruger #3 in 223. That critter could SHOOT, and it laid Sierra Matchking 52s into repetitious rosettes with boring consistency. A #3 in 30-40 Krag showed up at a local shop recently, and I was in no financial condition to snag it--oh, well. One That Got Away.
    I don't paint bullets. I like Black Rifle Coffee. Sacred cows are always fair game. California is to the United States what Syria is to Russia and North Korea is to China/South Korea/Japan--a Hermit Kingdom detached from the real world and led by delusional maniacs, an economic and social basket case sustained by "foreign" aid so as to not lose military bases.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by cajun shooter View Post
    Both guns had forearm tension problems when first shot.
    Could someone please clarify what this means? What is the cure? How much does it cost or is it a do it your self project? My guess by the sound of it is that the forehand is too tight on the barrel, causing accuracy problems, but I really have no idea.

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy TDC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Potsy View Post
    Careful, you are cruising headlong into an addiction.<snip>
    2ndAmendmentNut,

    I sincerely doubt you will hear many, if any, negative comments about the Ruger #1. I've owned 4 #1's for over 35 years and they are the only rifles I own I'd never consider selling. I started out with a 1B .270, then a 1V 22-250, then a 1B 7mm Mag, and finally a 375H&H. Still own um....

    Many of the earlier #1's had fabulous wood figure. The fit and finish was outstanding on all.

    When I bought the .270, friends wondered why I'd buy a hunting rifle that was limited to one shot. The limiting issue spoke for itself, as did the novelty of owning a falling block action in the old Farquharson tradition, Now many of those same critics own #1's, and hunt with them too.

    I agree with Potsy.... If you buy one prepare for a new firearm addiction...

    Terry
    "Hindsight is always so much more accurate than foresight, but well considered foresight so much more valuable." - Dwight D. Eisenhower

  12. #12
    Boolit Master Doc_Stihl's Avatar
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    If you're considering a #1, take a look at an encore.
    It is hard to fail, but it is worse never to have tried to succeed.

    Theodore Roosevelt

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy James C. Snodgrass's Avatar
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    2nd , What they are talking about is the pressure between the forearm hanger which also houses the main spring . There have been a number of articles written about it over the years . A company by the name of Hicks made or still makes a device that allows a person to adjust the pressure between the hangar and barrel . I only have one #1 currently it is the tropical in 458 Lott . I have had no problems with it at all it will shoot M.O.A with cast or j- word boolits . James

  14. #14
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    "If you're considering a #1, take a look at an encore."

    Jeez, Doc......there is NO comparison.

    The Encore is workable, but comparing it to a #1 is like comparing a New York taxi to a Rolls Royce.

    The Encore is flat-out ugly, and I wouldn't give one house-room even as a gift. It is designed for the shooter who wants utility and variety at a minimal price, and I've met quite a few folks who have them. Most have moved on to better things; one gent here had an Encore with SEVEN barrels and he got very tired of it all. Barrels aren't rifles, and he wanted RIFLES. He also found a very poor market when he tried selling it.

    In my limited experience with them, it's been difficult in the extreme to warm up to the design. One gent I hunted with for almost three weeks last fall had an Encore with three barrels (.270, .30-06, .338), and none of them shot at all well even from a benchrest with good scopes.

    My personal reaction to seeing an Encore is......ick. If it floats anyone else's boat, so be it. Just don't expect nice comments from me.
    Regards from BruceB in Nevada

    "The .30'06 is never a mistake." - Colonel Townsend Whelen

  15. #15
    Boolit Master Doc_Stihl's Avatar
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    Oh, I didn't realise it was a sophistication/taste comparison. I thought it was a question about a single shot rifle. Glad to know where you stand on Encores, I'll file that in the round folder.


    Specifics to check with the No1 is throat/chamber alignment with the bore.
    It is hard to fail, but it is worse never to have tried to succeed.

    Theodore Roosevelt

  16. #16
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    2nd, It's the forearm tension screw. Not all guns had the problem but there was a time in the history of production that almost all guns had it. The forearm screw would cause the rifle to string shots. Sometimes you could just loosen the screw and wallah!! it would become a tack driver. As I stated in my first posting there were several articles written about how to fix this problem. There are still old guns out there with the problem I'm sure. The owners probably thought it was a piece of junk and sold or traded them off. If you do a search I'm sure you can find the info. Several people had the fix in many different ways and for the most part they all worked. It messed with the barrel harmonics.
    Shooter of the "HOLY BLACK" SASS 81802 AKA FAIRSHAKE; NRA ; BOLD; WARTHOG;Deadwood Marshal;Bayou Bounty Hunter; So That his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who neither know victory nor defeat; 44 WCF filled to the top, 210 gr. bullet

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    The old #1's also had the infamous Wilson Barrels, some of which were a problem (per Doc Stihl's comment about chamber/bore alignment). I don't have any experience here, but what I've gathered is while there were some problems, they weren't terribly common and often could be cured with a little judicious handloading (oversize chambers, long throats, etc.). The Ruger built barrels have a good reputation.

    A couple of friends of mine are pretty heavy into Encores, they are more "hunters" than "gun guys". They shoot good and being able to swap barrels is handy.
    But they're both amazed when they put one of my #1's up to their shoulder.
    One of them is currently saving his money......

  18. #18
    Boolit Bub
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2ndAmendmentNut View Post
    Could someone please clarify what this means? What is the cure? How much does it cost or is it a do it your self project? My guess by the sound of it is that the forehand is too tight on the barrel, causing accuracy problems, but I really have no idea.
    There is a correct method for fitting the forend to the rifle, that essentially entails receiver contact points (rear sides), receiver clearance points (rear bottom), barrel clearance (full length on sides), & barrel contact upper pressure (forward tip). If done correctly, there is no need for aftermarket hangers, or glass work.

    For what ever reason, this does not always get done correctly at the factory.

    Earlier this year, I purchased a NIB No.1-A in 7x57. Shortly after taking delivery, I noticed a problem w/ the barrel crown, and so sent the rifle - w/ a diplomatically worded letter, back to the factory for warranty service.

    I can only assume the letter got the attention of the right individule, because on top of of a new barrel, they re-stocked the rifle w/ select grade wood. Got the whole thing done in record turn around time too.

    During the course of this service, I had the opportunity to pick the brain of the gentleman that performed the work, & he described the correct factory "bedding" procedure - as outlined above. That little tidbit of info, may be worth its weight in gold.

    Turned out to be a pretty good shooter, w/ handloads grouping into 1/2" - 3/4".

    I will say that from what I've seen, the new hammer forged No.1 barrels are very accurate, but need to be to shot in - as they foul a bit at first. I've got about 150 rounds down the tube at this point, & have noticed bore cleanup gets easier after every range session. I expect velocity will pick up w/ time, as well.

    If you are a hand loader, appreciate classic design rifles, & get some range time in w/ a good No.1 - you will pretty much be hooked for life. Trust me on that...
    "Sometimes you make eight - sometimes you hit dirt!"

    Regards - GCF

  19. #19
    Boolit Buddy
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    HAd a No.1 in 375H&H back in the late 70s and like an idiot traded it in 1992. Had very nice wood, way nicer than the current No.1s. Never really hunted with it other than shooting ground hogs and take my word for it a ground hog does not hold up well to the 375H&H.
    Now almost 20 years late I decided that needed another because as has been said a number of times in the previous threads, there is just something about the way they look and feel and they do feel good, go to the shoulder like no bolt action rifle ever did. Anyway I like big bores so bought a .458mag and am currently looking to have it converted to a Lott with a shorter throat and then plan on shooting lead boolits through it. If I could find one and afford it would love to get an octogon barrel at about 28" for it and basically have a modern version of the 45/110.

  20. #20
    Boolit Buddy part_timer's Avatar
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    I have a 416 rem mag and wouldn't trade it for anything. I'd like to have one in a 218 bee for some reason I can't explain.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check