Load DataSnyders JerkyTitan ReloadingWideners
RepackboxMidSouth Shooters SupplyInline FabricationReloading Everything
RotoMetals2 Lee Precision
Page 9 of 9 FirstFirst 123456789
Results 161 to 173 of 173

Thread: .351 Winchester S.L - Model 1907

  1. #161
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    2,919
    Did you use a paperclip (or whatever) through the post behind the buffers to hold everything in place while you removed the steel rod and replaced it with the bolt guide rod? I'm thinking that the original factory assemblers back in the day had special tools and jigs to help them set that spring. The hole in that post seems to be part of the original procedure.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSCF5312.JPG  

  2. #162
    Boolit Master

    firefly1957's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Harrison Michigan
    Posts
    2,787
    No I left the spring fully compressed by place a wood block in the bolt opening slid the rod out and the bolt spring guide rod .
    Once I had the spring compressed and the buffer in place with the bolt closed I was able to place the buffer washer with a pair of forceps.
    The washer was put in bottom slot sideways with flat down to barrel then bolt moved all the way to the rear and spring tension let back on moving the bolt forward the pin was removed and the rod pushed all the way in buffer so it would be in place under pressure . Bolt was then fully opened and blocked open with wood block . Assembly rod removed and guide rod put back it and tightened . All of the threads had to be cleaned of the hard oil/grease whatever was in them around the buffer was a lot of rubber compound stuck to bolt and barrel it was reddish color .
    Above I said I thought the buffer could be as long as .8" I did not look at where the bolt relation was to the rear of the magazine for that statement as the rear of the receiver was removed and I am not sure at what point a new round is picked up from the magazine when bolt goes forward.

    I am not going to try to cut another buffer in the same way with a punch if I make another a spinning cutter will be the way to go . I could also use a few thousand more on the outside for a firmer hold in the cup .

    I am going to do some shooting pull the forearm and decide how this buffer made from a rubber hammer is doing .
    The pin I used to retain the spring was a bit to long and needed to be shortened , it was a hardened steel needed bearing from a large truck ujoint, polished very smooth so easy to remove .
    When I think back on all the **** I learned in high school it's a wonder I can think at all ! And then my lack of education hasn't hurt me none I can read the writing on the wall.

  3. #163
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    2,919
    I had to use two buffers to fit the .401 properly, each buffer cut equally so I wouldn't have one thick and one thin. As long as the recoil is "buffered" by something, it should be fine.

  4. #164
    Boolit Master

    firefly1957's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Harrison Michigan
    Posts
    2,787
    I was wondering about adding a "sorbathane" buffer to the old one but when I saw how bad it was forgot that .
    Besides when I cut those thin washers from the material if got a bit gooey .

    I had some pads of "sorbathane" from old work gloves it filled the palm area was supposed to help with vibration from air impact wrenches at work . They ended up going to other means like electric motors with reaction bars or on support stands .
    When I think back on all the **** I learned in high school it's a wonder I can think at all ! And then my lack of education hasn't hurt me none I can read the writing on the wall.

  5. #165
    Boolit Master

    firefly1957's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Harrison Michigan
    Posts
    2,787
    I did some more shooting and chronographed the loads today .

    All loads except 170 grains I loaded in mid 1990's were at bottom end of load density and had soot on cases a few that went under 1200 f/s did not function the gun . All bullets sized to .352 or .351" all primers CCI 400
    .223 case trimmed load unknown cast gas checked 162 gr semi wadcutter 1830 f/s same load Speer 160 gr. bullet 1540 to 1750 . A couple in the 1100 f/s range I suspect case contamination as this load sat since about 2005 .

    Speer 158 grain Jacketed sized to .351 loaded in trimmed .350 Legend cases .
    14 grains 2400 1480 f/s .
    15 grains IMR-4227 1200-1428 f/s pressure to low did cycle the action .

    My deer load loaded in mid 1990's in .351 cases Sierra 170 grain JHC sized at .352" .
    IMR-4227 17.5 gr. 1524-1550 f/s - I was expecting more I think IF I seat the bullet deeper velocity would go up? This load is very destructive on deer but on the weak side for deer! The load is also very accurate and all the loads fired here were at same general point of aim at 25 yards .
    I have some more loads to shoot up before I look at the buffer again to see how it is working.
    When I think back on all the **** I learned in high school it's a wonder I can think at all ! And then my lack of education hasn't hurt me none I can read the writing on the wall.

  6. #166
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    2,919
    I bought and fixed up a 1907 .351 a few years ago (sold it last year). On the stock someone had cut 5 notches. I'm hoping they were deer.
    Have you tried .357 Mag brass?

  7. #167
    Boolit Master

    firefly1957's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Harrison Michigan
    Posts
    2,787
    I have tried .357 mag brass they are way to short for the magazine and a case on top got over the lower case and the rims locked together what a pain that was to clear . The charges did cycle the action with the cases I used them both as is and with a bit of a groove cut and rim turned down . That was done on a drill press as I did not have a mini lathe yet at the time . Doing that trimming caused me some problems the cases no longer fit in either 357 mag or .351 shell holder and I could not size them , I did not cut the groove larger for worry of making case web unsafe to hold pressure .

    Funny thing somewhere in this forum when I suggested just trimming 5.56 cases I was told that a rimless straight walled case of suck power would never work.
    I wonder if those people are looking at the now very popular .350 Legend and saying the same? I did mention the .450 bushmaster back them and 30 carbine since then I have seen a number of VERY accurate guns in bolt actions and AR platforms in the .450 BM at my club when I help with sight in days .
    When I think back on all the **** I learned in high school it's a wonder I can think at all ! And then my lack of education hasn't hurt me none I can read the writing on the wall.

  8. #168
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    2,919
    Interesting. I trim the rims on .357 mag brass down to .408" with a drill press and file (.404” to .411” worked). I do not cut an extractor groove. I'm still able to use the .357 mag shell holder. It's worked on two different .351s. I tried the longer .357 Max brass but, in each gun, the case mouths got beat up when extracting. But, hey, whatever works.

  9. #169
    Boolit Master

    firefly1957's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Harrison Michigan
    Posts
    2,787
    I can see that , in my case the rim just pulled off in resizing the case . I really like going rimless for the round may sit on it a while before working on it some more . Next step with the rimless cases is to seat the bullet deeper and see what happens . I also need to check case capacity against 357 Magnum cases one source says they are the same ?
    When I think back on all the **** I learned in high school it's a wonder I can think at all ! And then my lack of education hasn't hurt me none I can read the writing on the wall.

  10. #170
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    2,919
    I size the case with a 38/357 die, then for neck tension I use a 9mm crimp die the length of where the bullet will seat. I load 17 grs IMR4227, which is compressible, then seat with a 38/357 die. Like I said, there's no extractor groove.
    I use the same technique (less powder) with the .35 wsl (.38 SP case).

  11. #171
    Boolit Master

    firefly1957's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Harrison Michigan
    Posts
    2,787
    I just sent some 180 grain bullets sized to .351 to a guy in Minnesota to use in a .35 WSL . He is trimming .223 cases to shoot with .
    I have RCBS 351 dies but find the .357 Mag dies work best I crimp bullets with Lee .357 factory crimp Die .

    I cut a die from 1" diameter steel rod to use in a 1 ton arbor press to size jacketed .357" bullets to .351 " less effort then reloading press !
    When I think back on all the **** I learned in high school it's a wonder I can think at all ! And then my lack of education hasn't hurt me none I can read the writing on the wall.

  12. #172
    Boolit Master Sprue's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    WV
    Posts
    840
    Hello people. It's been years since I've revisited this site, so I thought I would say hello to all, and that I'm still kicking. I got away from shooting/reloading many moons ago. I haven't even been to my shooting range in at least 5 years but I've always kept my dues current. When or if I start reloading again, I'll have to start from scratch. But it shouldn't be too much of a re-learning curve as I have many folders of notes. As for the .351 I know is that I should have a mold, both cast and jacketed boolits. My best to youins and yours
    Sprue ™

  13. #173
    Boolit Master

    firefly1957's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Harrison Michigan
    Posts
    2,787
    I have been working more with my Model 1907 lately right now it sits doing coyote duty with some resized 140 grain FTX bullets at 2150 f/s .
    If you are on facebook you may look at this group : https://www.facebook.com/groups/287455216543486
    When I think back on all the **** I learned in high school it's a wonder I can think at all ! And then my lack of education hasn't hurt me none I can read the writing on the wall.

Page 9 of 9 FirstFirst 123456789

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check