Thanks Mike,
Ditto on the guillotine cutter.
MJ
Here ya go 303:
I had trouble getting it to show in a pic, so I wallered a pencil around in the throat a bit...kinda sorta made it visible.
BTW. I am using a hornady sizer die that is only partial fl sizing, belling/expanding the case mouth (pretty heavily) with a 35mag/357 maximum rcbs "M" type die, and seating with a standard 35R rcbs seater...my hornady seater is not large enough in the floating seater to do the job properly.
I started "bumping" the loads into the warmer area and things are getting a bit tighter groupwise, but I can go no further...she getting "warm" on me.
I will steal the ol man's chrony the next time I am up that way, but I would imagine I am in the 2200fps area.
Very nicely done. I'm a big fan of the 35 Remington, and those loaded cartridges of yours look like they mean business! I know next to nothing about paper patching, but could you tell me... is there any need to crimp with the PP? In the closeup of the rifle marks it looks like there's a very slight bell on the mouth, although I also see the tell-tale marks of a Lee FCD. If no crimp, does the friction fit of the paper hold it well enough in place for a tube fed lever gun?
I've never loaded the 358315 in a 35 Rem case. I take it with the PP, the crimp groove does not matter and you can seat to whichever depth you need to clear the throat and engage the rifling, so with your seating depth is there some case capacity lost to the bullet's base? Will your 35 Rems feed a normal GC'd 358318 crimped in the groove?
Cheers and congratulations,
Stirling
Last edited by SilverBow; 06-15-2009 at 05:59 PM.
I am not crimping these there is PLENTY of neck tension so I am not. I do not ever crimp rifle rounds unless some factor makes me (ignition/feeding/recoil/etc). If I can I just get them to feed properly and leave a slight bell..it seems to help accuracy. I have had zero boolit movement in the mag thus far and the loads I shot today were over all but the oldest books a bit.
Do not let lack of knowledge get in your way...I knew nothing until I started reading the great info posted here. I just menataly/theoretically refined it before I dove in. The big factor is getting the proper sizers/sizes and such, after that there ain't alot to it. No witchcraft, no magic or fung shhhhway involved.
I never let fear/common sense/or ignorance get in my way
From memory...utt oh a 358318 will cycle but not chamber..it has been awhile, but I never took that project any further....for a reason of some sort or other.
I do not use lee fcd's on my rifles..that mark is from the factory...this is a dummy round only.
those marks are left over from the factory load,he/someone fired to get the brass.
That was a clever trick! Thanks, 357maximum.
I have the same problem. I am going to drop down to 220gr boolits for that reason if they shoot straight. Actually, I am sizing the boolit to suite my gun and whatever weight they turn out to be will be incidental. Should be around 220gr.I started "bumping" the loads into the warmer area and things are getting a bit tighter groupwise, but I can go no further...she getting "warm" on me.
Rest In Peace My Son (01/06/1986 - 14/01/2014)
''Assume everything that moves is a human before identifying as otherwise''
Mike,
Off topic but what is the barrel in your avatar? My guess is a .35 cal Shilen.
MJ
Mike,
Back on topic... I was getting some good groups at 2300+ fps using patched SAECO 352 (.35W) but an occasional flyer would sneak its way into my otherwise great day. Have you had that experience yet? I think rolling the paper on with consistent pressure/tightness might be the answer but I haven't gotten around to testing yet. I still need a guillotine cutter to speed up the patch creating business and a cig roller ala docone31.
MJ
I had a few flyers in my first groups, It was either (or both) my patching technique or my lube application. They went away when I started using the back of a mouse pad to roll em on (tiiiiiiiiight). I also waaay reduced my post sizing lube amount at the same time.
I tried a cheap zigzag cig roller......could not get it to work with a 35 boolit...not enough room in the contraption. I will stick with the mousepad...need to find one in a lighter color that I can mark some reference lines onto.
I am going to see how fast I can push some in another caliber when I have more time...I have got to see this 3K relatively soft alloy patch thing work for myself.
I am going guillotine cutter shopping at weeks end..will report my findings/purchase if there are any to report.
If you open up the slotted hole for the opening roller a little, you might get it to work.
I wonder, if one of us "geniuses" here, might just make one for the 35 and up guys.
Now that you mention it .... mmmmm. I am out of work and have just found a small precision machine shop that will do things like this for us (mostly dies and molds and possibly cherries). I have been using my zig-zag without closing it fully so as to control the tension on the paper (and its alignment).I wonder, if one of us "geniuses" here, might just make one for the 35 and up guys.
I have been told by my local gunshop that there is a supplier in the US that sells cut strips of 100% cotton paper to the paper patch folks. Anyone know about that?
Rest In Peace My Son (01/06/1986 - 14/01/2014)
''Assume everything that moves is a human before identifying as otherwise''
357maximum, and others, walmart sells in its craft section, foam rubber sheats about 8x11. you can get sticky back or plain, and many different colors.
I have been using one for years as a mouse pad, and it also works GREAT to roll on a patch. and they are only about .15 cents
also works great to line the bottom of a cigar box to stand bullets in without any dings to the all important base!
TreeRat
You are a friggin genious, thank you
I can picture them , i have even seen them in there...thanks for trippin my memory...SWEET
UPDATE:
Made a trip to chi-kong mart tonight...I bought some "foamies".($.42/ sheet) ..they work STELLAR..thanks TREERAT I also bought a pack of self stick "FOAMIES" (foam sticker sheets) $3.48 for a 6pack...I am gonna mount one on an oak board with a slight ledge to run the nose against, and draw a line for patch alignment.
I also bought a Fiskars 12" deluxe portable trimmer ( slide rule with a blade) to try out.($19.00)...works good, but my green bar will not fit in there without a trimming...the slide rule cutter does cut nice strips though.
I retrieved some foamy stuff I threw away and cut a usable piece out of it and yes, it does work a treat! Thanks TREERAT.
Rest In Peace My Son (01/06/1986 - 14/01/2014)
''Assume everything that moves is a human before identifying as otherwise''
The majority of my PP experience has been with a Marlin 38-55 (Cowboy type, with Ballard rifling). I have never had a single PP'd round get its patch damaged by cycling through the action. I use a custom Mountain Mould 250gr bullet (truncated ogive, with a 1/4" diameter meplat) that is a bit undersized at 0.367", yet it shoots fine in the 0.381"-groove barrel, so long as the patch is laid-on thick enough that all the air is squished out of it when it is sized at 0.381" ~~~> makes for a very hard-surface patch. E.G.: a 2X patch of 24" paper.
The trick, when using proper-diameter boollits like this in the 38-55 (normally, only 0.358" or smaller diameter boolits will chamber) is to use only the new 2.125" long Starline brass, with it waaaay-thin neckwall (~0.0075").
Mic McPherson has "lengthened" the action to function with an LOA of up to 2.73" (see http://www.levergun.com/), and this boolit jams into the rifling at an LOA of 2.65" ~~~> having that extra available "elbow room" (above the usual 2.59" max LOA) is REEEALY handy! Load is 41.5 grains of AA-2495 over a Remington 2 1/2 primer. Using WW+Sn alloy, the rifle likes loads like this that are at least 30 Kpsi, as indicated by QuickLOAD. This load gives a measured MV of ~2100 fps.
BTW, that powder (AA-2495) is yet another neat trick. It reaches peak pressure far further down the barrel than any other powder of that burning rate. I KNOW that sounds contradictory, but you can SEE it on QuickLOAD by playing it against other powders that achieve a similar MV and roughly the same MAP (maximum average pressure). That means that it is a WONDERFUL powder for any boolits, and especially PP boolits, because the slug gets ALL THE WAY into the rifling before getting enough of a kick-in-the-arsenal to obturate it (i.e., it will not swell up early and then have to be sized back down by the throating).
Regards, Zeek
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |