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Thread: Kroil in a boolit mold

  1. #81
    Boolit Master jlchucker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fiatmom View Post
    Midway has Kroll penetrating and bore oil and Kroll gun oil in a can which should I use? I did not see one in a spray can.
    When I ordered the Online special, two spray cans is what they sent me. My order got screwed up and I ended up calling them. Nice people, and they straightened it out right away. They sent a price list for buying their stuff in quantity, too. That special looked like it was intended to be for businesses and not individiuals, but I got courteous and prompt treatment from them when I called.

  2. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by jlchucker View Post
    When I ordered the Online special, two spray cans is what they sent me. My order got screwed up and I ended up calling them. Nice people, and they straightened it out right away. They sent a price list for buying their stuff in quantity, too. That special looked like it was intended to be for businesses and not individiuals, but I got courteous and prompt treatment from them when I called.
    they put a special every 6 months or so.
    I have ordered the 2 for 1, with free ship, three times now.
    different size cans.

  3. #83
    Boolit Master

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    You can look it up as Kano labs or their ph no is 1800 598 0745 you do NOT need to be a company
    The "silikroil "is the special and it works good but does take a little longer to set in on the mold

  4. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jagdhund View Post
    I haven't been on the site for a while, but I'm trying to catch up. When I bought my Sharps and started banging away with black, I bought a can of Kroil. I is a great preservative. If only they could make it smell better. It smells like the little crystal cakes they put in urinals to me! I recently started using Ballistol. It smells like puke to me. I have open a bottle of Hoppe's No.9 to get the sweet essence of guns back in the room. I have used Kroil on several moulds, but I'm sure I have always used degreaser before running bullets. I will definitely try this. Any up-date on Kroil in moulds?
    Kroil and ballistol smell bad??? Man I wish they made perfume that smelled like kroil and toothpaste like ballistol. I love the smell of this stuff.

  5. #85
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    Charlie Sometimes's Avatar
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    I haven't been following this thread for a while.
    There is a certain "way" to apply it to achieve the best results.
    I've tried a few other ways, and got varying results, but none were acceptable.

    I am going to edit my original post to include this info-

    Call Kroil, you don't have to be a company to do it-
    Their number is 1 800 598 0745
    Last edited by Charlie Sometimes; 08-22-2010 at 10:20 AM.
    USMC 1980-1985

  6. #86
    Boolit Buddy
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    Aero Kroil & liquid Kano Kroil are the same thing, and have always been made by the same original company. I have used them for over 25 years on heavy equipment, in the machine shop, and at home. Kroil is great for cleaning gun barrels, and will free up rusted bolts, or about anything else that is stuck. I had never heard of using it in a mould, like most others I figured it would have to be completely removed before casting. Now, I'm going to try it as I have two moulds that are cranky about releasing the bullet. Thanks to all for the info.

  7. #87
    Boolit Man GeneT's Avatar
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    I tried this for the first time a couple of weeks ago - worked like a champ. I just swabbed the mold with a q-tip dipped in regular kano kroil and set to casting. Worked like a champ. A bit of smell as the Kroil burned initially and good drops 'til I was done.

    I'm storing all my steel molds well-kroiled from now on!

    GsT

  8. #88
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    I tried it, it works! How nice to be able to store moulds oiled without a long cleaning session before casting.
    Best,
    Mike

    NRA Life Member
    Remember Ira Hayes

  9. #89
    Boolit Buddy mustanggt's Avatar
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    I'm a believer. Beautiful boolits that drop out by just breathing on them.

  10. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by mto7464 View Post
    Kroil and ballistol smell bad??? Man I wish they made perfume that smelled like kroil and toothpaste like ballistol. I love the smell of this stuff.
    The employees at Kano Labs must love the smell also. Both our sons live in the Nashville area, so I am there quite often. I went by the factory to pick up a gallon of regular Kroil. The whole place smells like Kroil. I would assume the actual factory area is very strong since the office where I went had the distinctive smell permeating its' entire area.

    By the way, Kano Labs is a small place, "on the other side of the tracks". I guess a GPS would get you there but I didn't have one then. I almost gave up finding it before I saw a small sign near the road.

    John
    W.TN

  11. #91
    Boolit Buddy Rusty W's Avatar
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    After I heard all the talk about Kroil I had to try it. I ordered the online special last week and it arrived today. I came home for lunch and it was waiting on the porch. I couldn't wait so I sprayed some on a few molds to let soak while I went back to work. About 4 hours later I started casting boolits. I didn't wipe them down, just heated them up and started casting. About 8-10 fills and the boolits started dropping like rain. I tried it on a Lee 6 cavity I've had problems with and it solved that, no more stuck boolits. I tried it on the 313640 NOE mold as I've had problems with the boolits sticking to the pins, solved that too. They jump right off now. If you have a stubborn mold that want's to hang onto the pretty boolits, give it a shot of this stuff, it'll throw them right out.

  12. #92
    Boolit Master derek45's Avatar
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    I use it as a bore cleaner


    BROWNELLS carries it.

    so does my local hardware store.

    http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=7610/Product/KROIL





    .


    NRA LIFE Member

    USPSA/IPSC

  13. #93
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    I tried it on some notoriously sticky moulds in my Magma Eng, Master-Caster with terrible results when I sprayed or dabbed it on.
    In the interest of experience, I soaked the moulds, submerged in a large jar of 50/50 Kroil/Silikroil overnight. I just shook them off and wiped them a bit with a cloth before mounting in the MC.
    Hot dang!
    About 3-4 casts of gnarly ones to heat things up and even my (formerly) stickiest block now runs a thousand without having once to whack the MC handle against the stops.
    I've always liked Kroil - on machinery, as a bore cleaner, even as a solvent for a couple of industrial adhesives that would glue your butte to a chair in a heartbeat. Now I am sold on it as a mould prep' too!

  14. #94
    Boolit Buddy Jech's Avatar
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    I was just skimming over Kanolabs' product list and there's some really interesting stuff that sounds (to a casting novice) like a proverbial mag full of silver bullets. Let me apologize right off the bat for asking questions about products I'm sure have been posed and addressed elsewhere but it seems like having some experienced feedback on some of these other products might make a helpful addition to the sticky.

    Parteze...anybody have any experience using this directly in their mould cavities as opposed to seasoning the block with the "real mccoy" Kroil?
    Mold Release - Maximum Release Effect
    Pure silicone compound. Formulated to maximize release effect when
    used on molds. Its extreme anti-sticking properties make release quick and
    complete. Reduces sticking of parts in molds. Used to produce a slick finish which resists dirt. Parteze is highly repellent to oil, water, and is heat resistant. Valuable as a water repellent for most porous surfaces, such as concrete, wood, rubber, linoleum, etc. Use on molds, putty knives, trowels, hand saws, and planes, lawnmower blades, plows,boots, etc. Anywhere extreme anti-sticking properties are useful.
    Penephite...this one sounds really good for alignment pins/bushings on Lee 6-bangers
    Graphited Penetrating Oil!
    Oils and solvents dissolve rust and grease, carry graphite into
    infinitely small places for long lasting lubrication.
    Dryphite...see bold text...good for block faces to assist with alignment when closing the block halves?
    Graphite Lubrication - Excellent in Dusty Conditions
    Provide a smooth surface of high-grade graphite. Adheres to metal for long lasting lubrication under extreme pressure, temperature, and weather. Excellent where dusty or dirty environments make oil lubricants ineffective.
    Molyfilm...please tell me has tried this as a bullet lube!
    Molybdenum Lubrication - Severe Pressure Lubrication
    Sprays dry, smooth surface of Molybdenum Di-Sulfide. Adheres to any hard surface for excellent dry lubrication under severe pressure conditions. For use in temperatures from -100 degrees F to 600 degrees F. Used on slides of all types.
    As a sidenote, this Silikroil sounds like it could be effective as gun oil...
    Loosens Frozen Metal Parts plus Silicone!
    Kroil penetrating oil plus silicone for faster penetration,
    lubrication, water displacement, and rust prevention.
    ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

  15. #95
    Boolit Mold


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    Quote Originally Posted by Jech View Post
    I was just skimming over Kanolabs' product list ...
    Molyfilm...please tell me has tried this as a bullet lube!
    ..
    I use it mostly on my trailer hitches, but I tried it on bullets, too. The spray sure made it go on easily.
    I'm not sure what advantage moly' gives bullets and am less interested in some of the effects I have read about since I Ultra-Coated my rifles. I also wonder if spraying on a coating is as effective as the tumble-on process; it seems to me that the latter would actually embed the moly' in the lead.
    That said, I did notice less leading at high velocities with the Kano-sprayed bullets.

    I know that's not much help, but maybe you will get more answers. At least I can assure you that I did *not* notice any ill effects of the Kano spray.
    Geezer, veteran, mostly retired, mostly libertarian, Magma Engineering fan ... hey, y'all come eat some BBQ...

  16. #96
    Boolit Master

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    The trailer hitch is rusted into the receiver on my truck. I tried PB Blaster and that didn't help. Wrapped a chain around it and tied it to a big tree and yanked -- and was afraid to try that a second time cuz my airbags might go off. The hitch didn't budge. Haven't tried a torch and a BFH yet.

    Sounds like Kroil might be worth a try. Also can use it on some sticky Lee boolit molds and it might help or might not but it won't hurt anything to try.

  17. #97
    Boolit Buddy shawnsmc's Avatar
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    It works great as a boolit release agent in molds but it also works good in your seater die if you load tumble lubed boolits. Keeps the die from building up those thick layers of LLA.

  18. #98
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    GREAT TIP, Shawn!


    Quote Originally Posted by shawnsmc View Post
    It works great as a boolit release agent in molds but it also works good in your seater die if you load tumble lubed boolits. Keeps the die from building up those thick layers of LLA.
    Jim Fleming

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  19. #99
    Boolit Bub
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    What Happened to Smoke?

    I have always stored molds with oil of some type in them. I cast boolits, knock the sprue off, and let the mold cool. I then open the sprue plate, use some Rem Oil that is thin and penetrates into the cavities. When I get the mold out, I remove the bullets, scrub it with Brake Parts Cleaner and a toothbrush. I blow it out, then sit it on the pot to heat up. When I start casting, as the mold nears a good temperature, I take a Bic lighter and smoke the cavities with the flame on "high" so it gives off some smoke, and that's it. Bullets fall out. I have always heard that leaving oil in a mold and getting it hot would create a residue that didn't burn off, and ended up making trouble. I have a couple of old molds that have oxidation in the cavities, and I intend to use a soda blaster to clean them out, then brake parts cleaner, then smoke from a lighter. Never had a mold that smoke would not improve wrinkling and dropping out. Smoking the top of the sprue plate also keeps sprue material from sticking. Just my .02 worth. Been casting since the '60's but new to this forum.

  20. #100
    Boolit Master
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    Got a couple of Lyman molds out, Kroiled them up and went at it just to see if I could make it work. After about fifteen or so drops. Perfect boolits from then on. I'll have to say, some of the nicest boolits I've cast in a while. Very few rejects. I'm sold. When I was finished, I put more Kroil on the molds and put them away in my heated safe. So, next time, I'll just get them out of the safe, heat them up, and go at it. That's the part I like the best. Eventually, I'll get all of my molds in the ready condition. I'll have to give this two thumbs up.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check