Where can this kroil be had? I live in north Florida and have never heard of it.
Thanks, Gunsite
Where can this kroil be had? I live in north Florida and have never heard of it.
Thanks, Gunsite
I got mine here.
https://www.kanolabs.com/orders/order_kroil.shtml
KROIL is cheaper by the case. I have sprayed rusted flange studs on steam piping that is outside in the elements and once the rust turns to mud everything comes apart. Its not a long lasting oil as it seems to evaporate in a week or so but it does what it says ,it penetrates and things come apart. If you have leading in your pistol or rifle, spray it down and the next day it cleans up fast. Also the plastic fouling and leading in a shotgun barrel cleans up in one swipe.
I can't believe you own guns and don't have kroil oil. It is the best stuff. just soak and wipe out. remove lead that I have ever seen, just soak and wipe out.
How does Marvel Mystery Oil compare to Kroil?
Specialty petrol products seem to be a bit of a mystery sometimes, every pun intended.
I'm also curious about Marvel Mystery Oil. I have an old can of it that was my Grandfather's, and it's one of my favorite decorative items in my loading room. I'm worried that it will undersize because of the lard content, (if it does in fact contain lard, which I've heard).
Wellllll, here's the MMO MSDS (nothing organic, 100% petroleum based = NO lard):
https://ehs.cranesville.com/msds.pdfs/MSDS(M001).pdf
And here's the official website's take on the "Mystery".
http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/inde...ucts/about.php
I'm still asking about its performance in the arena of bore cleaning. I've used it and it seemed to gray up for a few patches after Sweet's 7.62 was showing clean on powder fouling (yes, I know Sweet's is not that great a powder fouling solvent).
But never having found Kroil on the shelf anywhere and not being motivated enough to pay through the nose to get some shipped to me, has anyone here used both so they can report the comparison???
You might try looking at the auto-parts stores and also Ace Hardware, both places usually have Kroil, or can get it for you. Grump you might try Hurst's Ace Hardware in ST. George,ut. they should have it or can get it.
Last edited by mwc; 07-25-2013 at 09:26 PM. Reason: add more info
I seal them up in an ammo can, with packets of dessicant. H & G said to never put oil in/on a mold.
I use a product named "The Inhibitor V80" by Plano. It is a blend of volatile corrosion inhibitor and oil, in a spray can. I don't spray it on the moulds, but spray a tiny bit on a piece of paper, then put the paper and mould in a ziplock. Volatile corrosion inhibitors will infiltrate the metal without having to by physically applied, and passivate the metal surfaces. It's the same type of chemical that is on the brown pieces of paper that guns and other precision metal items are packed with. A can lasts a LONG time.
This intrigued me, as it goes against the grain of everything I've read (including what Lee say about their molds) so I thought I'd give it a try. I don't have Kroil, but if you look up the MSDS it's nothing fancy, basically just petroleum distillates (which is all many of these products are). I have some Penetrene, an Aussie rust penetrating oil that's been around since Adam was a lad, and is just (you guessed it) petroleum distillates and a small percentage of light oil. I sprayed the molds, let them stand and then wiped them down. The first few balls came out slightly wrinkly, which is an issue I've always had, but then they started coming out much smoother. After a little while they started sticking slightly, so I wiped out the hot mold with a cotton bud moistened with Penetrene and all was well again for a while.
Further proof that one shouldn't always take what people say at face value and be prepared to experiment.
my mold was sticky. Instead of smoking it I tried soaking overnight in Kroil and then when my melt was heating I had the mold on the hotplate heating at the same time. The boolits just fell out of the mold. At about 40 a little tap on the hinge got them out, 60 they started sticking again and I hung it up. My mold is upstairs soaking with a little Kroil to clean it up.
Glad I saw this thread.
I Am Descended From Men Who Would Not Be Ruled
Fiat Justitia, Ruat Caelum
The two 13oz cans for $14.50 + $5.95 shipping is still a good offer. Just purchased a couple of cans.
http://www.kanolabs.com/google/
None available locally, guess I'll try the website.
@ Crash - if you decide you don't like the Bulldog, FIRST DIBS!
@ azcruiser - When I was dating the first wife, she figured out to put Hoppe's behind her ears. The less said about wrinkles the better...
The liquid quart size can is currently on sale at Midway for $9.99, but the two can deal direct sounds good. I got mine directly from Kana labs, and I got the aerosol free with the quart liquid.
kano will send you offers from time to time so you will not run out
make sure mold is hot and put the Kroil on and let evaporate about every 50 casts or so .
the spray works best but the can will do ok but it cools the mold too fast. If you use the can type wet a paper towel and wipe or a Q tip that is a non plastic
Brownells, farm-fleet have it too….hazmat charge for shipping is a bit steep…..by the way….it will creep into everything so keep watches, electronics and anything else that doesn't need kroil away!
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |