Another ramrod question

[RayinNH]

I purchased a longrifle kit in 1976 and never finished it. I'm determined to finish this summer.The stock is straight because the barrel was housed in the barrel channel. The ramrod on the other hand has a serious double crook bend in it. Is there any way to straighten this rod or do I just buy a new one? I'm afraid if I buy another I'll end up with another crooked rod, of course I could just buy 3 or 4 and pick the best one. The shipping charge probably won't change much between 1 or 4 rods anyway...Ray

[Hanshi]

I don't think it's possible to have too many ramrods. I ordered half a dozen a year ago (with tips) and have just ordered another batch of blanks. I'll finish & use the blank ones in my guns in the field and put the tipped ones in for show. Unless the rod is so crooked it binds in the thimbles, I don't see that it would be a real problem. Some bend in the rod helps hold a loose rod in. I read a method of straightening rods involving a piece if angle iron and clamps to hold another piece of iron against the rod. I think they soaked the rod and clamped it in the setup and let it dry. I guess there are several ways to do this and it sounds pretty simple.

[RayinNH]

Hanshi, I've considered soaking it and clamping in a fixture. I've got nothing to loose because it's worthless. In fact if I put a chuck on one end I could use it as a bit brace, it's that bad...Ray

[docone31]

It will take steam.
That is how they used to do it.

[Rebel Dave]

Ray
You can buy al manner of rod tips and handles from track of the wolf. I make my own rods. I get the hardwood rods from Menards or Lowes or Home depot. I epoxy the tips and handles on, then put a small nail thru the tip, to keep it from comming of at an inopertune time. Countersink the nail hole on both sides, then peen it flush, and smooth it on a grinder, so it will not drag on inside of the bbl.

Rebel dave

[northmn]

Lst time I ordered blanks they had a minimum order of 3 or 4. All came out pretty fair. They straigten wood arrows through heat, hand bending or use of a crook. You can straighten by bending against a couple of blocks or nails, etc. Once stored in the thimbles, ramrods have a tendency to straigten on thier own. Perfectly straight ramrods are not a big deal.

Northmn

[6pt-sika]

It will take steam.
That is how they used to do it.

I wasn't sure but I was thinking steam also .

[6pt-sika]

This may sound a little chicken but I've adopted the practice of using a range rod to load at the range and clean my flinters and save the ramrods that came with the guns for reloading in the field .

[northmn]

This may sound a little chicken but I've adopted the practice of using a range rod to load at the range and clean my flinters and save the ramrods that came with the guns for reloading in the field .

Most of us do that. I use a 5/16 brass rod with a muzzle protector. There is even some historical precedent among the mountain men where carrying a rod inside the muzzle is mentioned. Some think they might have liked to have had an extra handy as making one back then took time and some areas were relatively treeless.

Northmn

[nicholst55]

I was told by an old riflesmith to take your new ramrod blanks, and submerge them in kerosene. Leave them there until they're saturated, and now they won't warp. I haven't tried this method yet myself, but I will eventually.

What I have done in the past is to immediately apply a good coat of wood sealer on a new ramrod. That seems to stop them from warping, at least for the most part.

[cajun shooter]

Try a good soaking with Linseed oil. That was used in days gone by. Then buy a TRESO. You can bend it in half with out breaking. Never go into the field with just one. It will become stuck or broke; have only heard of this; sure right!!

[pietro]

In my experience, it's not a very good idea to make a ramrod from harware store or lumber yard doweling, as the grain structure isn't correct for that use - and some day the user of such will pay for their frugality with the broken end of one lanced through their hand while ramming.

Hickory is best for a wood ramrod, soaked in kero for about 30 days.
For a soaking vat, I use a length of 1/2" ID PVC tubing from Home Cheapo, with a cap glued onto one end for a seal - and check the kero level weekly for evaporation/replenishment.
If there's no shed/garage to store it while soaking, a second cap, unglued, will keep down the smell indoors.

The kero has lubricants in it that soak into the wood fibres, helping to avoid splitting, etc.

For hunting, I usually carry a Treso or other synthetic rod (one that fits lengthwise, etc) like a T/C.

The range rod, with a ball puller, stays in my vehicle.

.

[jack19512]

In my experience, it's not a very good idea to make a ramrod from harware store or lumber yard doweling, as the grain structure isn't correct for that use - and some day the user of such will pay for their frugality with the broken end of one lanced through their hand while ramming.

When I first got my 54 cal. Lyman Great Plains Rifle I knew I would be doing a lot of shooting trying to figure out the best powder, patch & ball combo and whatever. Since my patch & ball were loading pretty tight I went to Lowe's and purchased a 1/2 inch dowel rod and I must say it works great. I don't think I could ever split or break it by using it for a ramrod. Time will tell though. I have probably loaded around 75 shots with it so far and it looks like new. It is 4 foot long so I never have to put my hand on the other end of the rod.

[docone31]

In time, that rod will become brittle.
You should soak it in some deep penetrateing oil that will keep the wood supple. A deep soak.
Like the kerosene, the oil should displace the kerosene as it fills in.
I have several of those dowels I use for Dopping for my cab cutting. they all get brittle with use.
They are however good hard long grain Oak. You just need to fill in the spaces inside the dowel.
Soak the daylights out of them.

[jack19512]

They are however good hard long grain Oak.

The tag on mine says Poplar. The only reason I purchased the dowel rod was because I knew I would be doing a lot of shooting until I got the rifle lined out and I didn't want to mess my new rifle ramrod up and after that I probably won't be shooting it that much, at least until ML deer season. I use dowel rods for lots of projects so it wasn't wasted money for me even if I quit using it. But, it works so well I might just try to take care of it and make it part of my ML equipment.

[crazy mark]

I make mine out of fiberglass rods. I use the threaded chimney sweep rod. Just cut off the metal ends and turn down and mount the brass thimbles. Not worried about wood breaking then. Mark

[pietro]

[It is 4 foot long so I never have to put my hand on the other end of the rod. ]

FWIW, that's a good description of a range rod, and not the ramrod I was speaking to, regarding using a dowel as one.
A ramrod usually fits in, and is carried in, the thimbles below the barrel - and is no longer than the barrel.

AFAIK not many hardware dowels are made from a traditional ramrod wood like supple Hickory wood - which Oak and Poplar are not (supple, i.e.).

I like a wood rod on a flinter - somehow, a synthetic just doesn't seem kosher, even though they're much better for hunting and/or extended shooting sessions.

.

[northmn]

Fiberglass has been mostly discontinued for ramrod use as it is very abrasive on the barrel. If one insists on using it you should get a muzzle protector (they really are not bad for any type of rod). Perosnally when I hear of using kerosene and other soaks, I would suggest trying mineral oil as it is more refined and has even been recommended for wood use on cutting boards. After soaking I think a coat of linseed oil or even a linseed oil cut might be good.

Northmn

[felix]

Pure carnauba wax seems to hold up well on untreated wooden dowels. An even tougher wax would be a very dense castor wax, signified as hydrogenated castor oil to the utmost degree. Castor waxes tend to have extreme viscosity and would be quite difficult to remove out of a barrel unless oil coated first. ... felix

[Gerry N.]

Hardware store dowels are cut from planks on a machine called a "sticker" with no regard as to grain run-off. Ramrods are split from (preferably hickory) billets with no grain run-off the entire length of the rod.

You haven't really lived until you've made the 75 mile run to an ER with a newby who has a two foot length of filthy birch dowel run all the way through his hand, entering just below the heel of the palm, exiting between the middle and ring finger knuckles on the back of his hand. I have it on good authority that it was seriously painful. As were cleaning the wound channel, the tetanus boosters and follow up sessions.

Kerosene evaporates from the wood it is soaked into faster than it soaked in in the first place. Not to mention the stench lasts years delighting wives. We all know how much they love and appreciate the never ending stink of kerosene in the house.

Buy or make up a "real" rammer of genuine split hickory to carry in the thimbles of your gun and get a range or loading rod of solid steel drill rod or a good unbreakable synthetic.

Another twist is to have a load that allows for moderately easy insertion into the bore and subsequent ramming onto the charge. I've seen many shooters attempting to ram loads that would require hydraulic machinery for normal humans to accomplish.

Good shooting,

Gerry N.