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Thread: Hobby Gunsmith Question - Barrel Removal from Savage Model 3

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy 4570guy's Avatar
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    Question Hobby Gunsmith Question - Barrel Removal from Savage Model 3

    I'm sure one of you guys can help me out. I have an old Savage Model 3 single shot .22 rifle that was given to me a while back. I decided to turn it into a "project gun" to try and learn some simple gunsmithing. I plan to refinish the metal using a nitre blue process. Now to my question --

    I am trying to remove the barrel. I noticed that there appears to be a pin through the bottom of the receiver that I'm sure is pinning the barrel at the bottom of the barrel threads. I tried knocking the pin out, but it won't budge. I don't want to use too much force for fear of damaging something.

    I read on another forum that some barrel pins have to be drilled out and a new one installed once the barrel is re-installed. Is this the best way to go? I fear I could way-lay on this pin with a big hammer, but I'm just going to end up buggering something up. I don't have a hydraulic press, but I do have a drill press. I was thinking I could chuck the receiver up in the vice and carefully drill the pin out. Sound reasonable?

    One other question - are .22 receivers typically hardened like centerfire receivers? I sort of think they wouldn't be because pressures are so low with the .22. I was planning to D&T the receiver for a Lyman target sight. I was wondering if I'll need to anneal the spots I want to drill first.

    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
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    You have'nt said what condition the metal is in. If there is rust, you can try soaking it in Kroil. I have'nt worked on the Savage Mod. 3 but many less expensive .22's used a pin and a slip fit shank to fit the barrel, no threads.
    Personally, I'd soak it, then try some test tapping to see if the pin will move, I'd also go from left to right as I've seen tapered pins used. If it will budge, I'd go with a really close fitting punch and a heavy hammer untill you know it's moving well. Have the receiver well supported too.

    I would try removing the pin before I'd drill it out.

    It's doubtful the receiver is hardened, tho possibly you could run into case hardening, you'll probably know when you center punch it.
    You'll know for sure when you try drilling it, the bit will do very little but squawk and squeal.

    Hope thats some help,
    roadie

  3. #3
    In Remebrance


    Bret4207's Avatar
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    Heat helps too. Pinned barrels in 22's of that vintage aren't usually threaded. I'm almost certain there's no heat treatment involved.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy 4570guy's Avatar
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    Thanks for the help. There is no visible rust. I put a few drops of Kroil on the barrel receiver junction before I went to bed last night. I hadn't thought about a taper pin - I'm glad you pointed it out.

    I'll give your suggestions a try (including the heat). Thanks again!

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy 4570guy's Avatar
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    I was able to drive the pin out this morning. I had to drive it from right to left (as looking down from the top of the receiver). The pin was not tapered, but the left side of it had been upset when it was installed. There was no rust.

    Follow-up: I soaked the barrel-receiver junction with Kroil for a couple of hours, chocked it up in the vice and the barrel came right off. You were correct - no threads - just a slip fit with the pin to hold the barrel in place. Thanks again for your help!
    Last edited by 4570guy; 05-30-2009 at 01:54 PM.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check