Lyman sabot slug alloy??

[10 ga]

Thinking of getting a Lyman sabot slug mould for my shotgun (20 gauge) as $1 to $6 @ ($5 to $30 box of 5) is too much for ammo. When I read the searched threads I noticed that some people have a problem with that slug cutting the petals off of the wads at the base of the slug. Shouldnt a harder alloy prevent some of the "flex" of the slug when shooting? At .57+ dia. I wouldn't think expansion on target would be an issue. In fact I want the thing to penetrate max with that .57 wound channel. Should slug be 20/1, 30/1, linotype, W-W, quenched W-W, heat treated W-W, or some other harder than PB alloy? Any info on the alloy question for this slug would be welcome. Anyone have a 20 ga Encore SS fluted rifled barrel and can give me insight on what will shoot good in it would be appreciated. Now it shoots Lightfield and Winchester Platinum pretty good. If I can't shoot any cheaper than $1 @ I'll have a 20 gauge Encore Pro Hunter SS fluted rifled barrel to sell soon. Thanks, 10 ga.

[ovendoctor]

Thinking of getting a Lyman sabot slug mould for my shotgun (20 gauge) as $1 to $6 @ ($5 to $30 box of 5) is too much for ammo. When I read the searched threads I noticed that some people have a problem with that slug cutting the petals off of the wads at the base of the slug. Shouldnt a harder alloy prevent some of the "flex" of the slug when shooting? At .57+ dia. I wouldn't think expansion on target would be an issue. In fact I want the thing to penetrate max with that .57 wound channel. Should slug be 20/1, 30/1, linotype, W-W, quenched W-W, heat treated W-W, or some other harder than PB alloy? Any info on the alloy question for this slug would be welcome. Anyone have a 20 ga Encore SS fluted rifled barrel and can give me insight on what will shoot good in it would be appreciated. Now it shoots Lightfield and Winchester Platinum pretty good. If I can't shoot any cheaper than $1 @ I'll have a 20 gauge Encore Pro Hunter SS fluted rifled barrel to sell soon. Thanks, 10 ga.

dont know wat all the huwey is about with mangled wads ''SO WAT''

all I care about is performance 3-6'' at 100 yards out of a smooth bore is ok by me

running mine out of range scrap and do fine with it

if ya would like a few to try ill put them up on the PIF fourm

[Blammer]

WW alloy air cooled works well for me! It's all about the sabot fit to the wad that helps with accuracy.

I'd be testing my NEF slug gun more but I just broke the scope and have sent it out for repairs. When it gets back I'm looking forward to shooting a bunch more slugs in it and testing the Lyman Sabot slug even more.

[38-55]

10 ga,
I do have a lyman 20 ga sabot mold but no experince with it in a rifled barrel..works good in smooth bores for me though... With that said I have a LOT of experience with the lyman 12 ga sabot slug. Personally I veiw the cut petals on the wad as a good sign... it means that the slug skirt is expanding to full bore size and your getting the best seal you can.. I use mostly air cooled w-w alloy and it works just fine.. Expansion is not an issue on white tails.. ( I've done 'postmortems' on 27 +) Matter-o-fact I can't tell the difference between pure lead slug and lino ones so I just cast what works.. As for casting I find a really hot mold works best..
Stay safe
Calvin
PS odd note from my various 'postmortems'... the entry holes are always much larger than the exit holes...

[longbow]

ovendoctor:

3" to 6" at 100 yards is okay by me too but I am still trying to get there. I have heard that the Lyman sabot slug does pretty well for some people but haven't tried it yet.

So far the only slug I have found that will shoot that well in my guns is the AQ (and maybe Brenneke and Gualandi). I have had nothing home cast that even comes close.

I do have a few Rapine 730560 slugs that gave me a 2" group at 50 yards but I haven't tried it at 100 yet.

What components are you using to get 3" to 6" at 100 yards?

Longbow

[diehard]

I bought some 12 gauge Lyman slugs from GunBroker that averaged 3-6" at 75 yards from 4 of my 12ga shotguns. They worked best from a JC Higgins Model 20 with a fixed modified choke (28"smoothbore bbl), and almost as well from a Mosssberg 500 with a 20" smoothbore barrel and an IC choke tube. They shot 5" groups from a cut down Stevens 67 (18" bbl, now cyl bore), and a Stevens 77 with the polychoke set on "cyl" (28" bbl). All the wads I found had mangled petals. But, like OD said, I'm not sure why I need to be concerned about the wads, just the holes the slugs make.

The 150 slugs I tried all seemed to be pure lead, but I'm not certain about that. What I am certain about is that the Lyman slug outperfroms all other slugs I've reloaded (I'm new at the shotsehll reloading thing, BTW) in my shotguns. I've tried the Lee slugs, Meyers, various Fosters, etc.... My guess is that it shoots best for me because it is so easy to load its hard for me to screw it up.

[ovendoctor]

ovendoctor:

3" to 6" at 100 yards is okay by me too but I am still trying to get there. I have heard that the Lyman sabot slug does pretty well for some people but haven't tried it yet.

So far the only slug I have found that will shoot that well in my guns is the AQ (and maybe Brenneke and Gualandi). I have had nothing home cast that even comes close.

I do have a few Rapine 730560 slugs that gave me a 2" group at 50 yards but I haven't tried it at 100 yet.

What components are you using to get 3" to 6" at 100 yards?

Longbow

I am running the following
ww209
AA12R
AA cases
the powder charge ya need to look up in the lyman book
for the obvious reasons

the trick is [and I know this will sound stupid] but slug the bore
the pedals on the wads are different thickness
ya wand the round to go snug down the barrel
not fall or have to beat it down the bore
also I am shooting cylinder bore [no choke]off a bench rest

Doc.

[ovendoctor]

also if any of you are interested in trying the slugs
ill PIF 25 of them in 12 or 20 ga. the offer is still open

Doc.

[longbow]

I have some more playing to do yet with slugs I already have but I just may take you up on that offer in the future.

I have always liked the look of the Lyman sabot slug.

I can't disagree with your logic of who cares about the condition of the wad if you are getting accuracy, but with the slugs I have tried, when I get sheared petals or mangled wads accuracy has been bad.

Mind you, I have been mostly using round ball or full diameter wad filling slugs. The two "driving bands" of the Lyman may make the difference. So far as you commented, I have found that slug/wad should slide snugly down the barrel but not have to be pounded through.

Anyway, I don't want to be hijacking the thread here.

Longbow

[ovendoctor]

got 12 and 20 ga slugs on the pif fourm

[Navy_Guns]

I shoot them from a H&R with a rifled barrel, and after some experimenting I got a 3-shot group measuring 1.3" center-to-center spread at 100 yards off a rest. I use the Lyman recipe using 3" Remington hulls and 50.0 grains of Blue Dot. I found that using the 3" version in my 3" chambered gun gave better accuracy than the 2 3/4" load using Winchester AA hulls. I also found that using the hot glue method inside the skirt (suggested on another forum) greatly reduced the number of flyers I got. I could hear which ones would be flyers as the round made a sound like tearing paper as it went down range. Invariably I'd find the wad showed signs of extruding up into the skirt and the wad legs would be crushed on one side, like it wasn't going square.

Using air-cooled WW they don't do much deforming. If I shoot something hard the skirt portion usually breaks into a few large pieces leaving the front portion intact. I killed a buck with a Lyman slug last year from about 40 yards out of my stand and he was DRT. Even if he ran, a blind guy could follow a trail from blood coming out two 3/4" holes...