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Thread: I tried Lyman #2 and I like it

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy

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    I tried Lyman #2 and I like it

    I have always cast bullets with a 20/1 mix. The other day while smelting I mixed up 20# of Lyman #2 alloy. Suddenly the bullets were filling out better, dropping from the mold better and they have more consistant weight. So for so good, I am going to the range with them next week.

    Malcolm

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master
    9.3X62AL's Avatar
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    Lyman #2 alloy is usually a genuine pleasure to cast with. All that tin makes molten metal do nice things! The price of tin discourages the use of #2 to some degree, but no two ways about it--#2 alloy is user-friendly plus.

    I hope it does good things downrange for you. It always has for me. Good fillout = absence of voids or imbalances.
    I don't paint bullets. I like Black Rifle Coffee. Sacred cows are always fair game. California is to the United States what Syria is to Russia and North Korea is to China/South Korea/Japan--a Hermit Kingdom detached from the real world and led by delusional maniacs, an economic and social basket case sustained by "foreign" aid so as to not lose military bases.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    You might also want to try making up some hardball alloy, also known as Taracorp Magnum alloy. It's a 2-6-92 alloy (2%Sn, 6%Sb and 92%Pb) and will cast pretty much the same as #2. BH will be in the range of 14-17. And with the cost of tin nowadays, keeping the percentage down to 2% will also save you money. I have used this alloy for over 20 years in all my handguns and several rifle loadings as well and have always been pleased with its performance.

    sleeper1428

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master
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    #2 casts up some pretty boolits. Perfect fill-out, flawless boolits. A joy to cast with.
    I used what I had left to sweeten WW, Range lead, and other acquired scrap lead.

    Shiloh
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  5. #5
    Banned

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    god if your gonna make them that hard you might as well buy them

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master Char-Gar's Avatar
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    A little antimony works wonders!

  7. #7
    Boolit Master 243winxb's Avatar
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    You can't go wrong with #2 and Lyman. Works great in gas checked rifle and/or plain based pistol bullets. No heat treating or water dropping needed. IMO

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
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    I've been saying that all along, but everybody keeps poo pooing the amount of tin I am using. In reality, my alloy probably costs less because I get all my wheelweights for free and I buy tin/pewter at flea markets and garage sales for ~1$ per pound. My standard recipe to make #2 alloy is 19 lbs of melted wheelweight lead mixed with 1lb of lead-free tin solder or 1lb of recycled pewter.

  9. #9
    In Remembrance
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brother_Love View Post
    I have always cast bullets with a 20/1 mix. The other day while smelting I mixed up 20# of Lyman #2 alloy. Suddenly the bullets were filling out better, dropping from the mold better and they have more consistant weight.
    Quote Originally Posted by 9.3X62AL View Post
    Lyman #2 alloy is usually a genuine pleasure to cast with. All that tin makes molten metal do nice things!
    Quote Originally Posted by kawalekm View Post
    I've been saying that all along, but everybody keeps poo pooing the amount of tin I am using.
    So...what is the real deal?
    The OP was making 20-1 alloy (95/5). He changed to Lyman #2 (90/5/5).
    That means he added 5% antimony and reduced the lead to 90%.

    The amount of tin did not change.

    Has anybody ever claimed that 'more antimony' makes a mould fillout better?
    CM
    Retired...TWICE. Now just raisin' cows and livin' on borrowed time.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    What a bunch of CHEAPSKATES! Most of you boo-hoo TIN as if it were GOLD! If it's FREE use as much as you like, with in reason of course. I just made up a batch of bullet alloy that was close to Lyman's #2 using just pure lead and 95-5 solder because that was all I had and it didn't cost me a DIME! FRUGAL is fine but don't expect your as cast diameter to be what you need if you used a softer alloy! Unless, of course you going to fork out extra money for CUSTOM moulds!! Most mould manufactures list their diameters using either #2 Aloy or Linotype. Anything softer will result in a smaller diameter bullet!!!

  11. #11
    Boolit Master 243winxb's Avatar
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    Has anybody ever claimed that 'more antimony' makes a mould fillout better?
    Well, in a way it does, Diameter wise.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master KYCaster's Avatar
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    OK guys, I'm not sure I understand all I know about this.

    The Lyman book I have says #2 alloy is 90% Pb, 5% Sn and 5% Sb, and there are lots of guys here who claim that they're making #2 alloy with pure lead and solder or WW and solder.

    You can't get there from here....I mean, you can add 95/5 solder till the cows come home and you can't get the Sb content to equal the Sn content. Start with 19 lbs. of lead and add a pound of 95/5 and you get 95-4.75-.25.

    Results are quite a bit better with WW.... 19 lbs. WW and 1 lb. 95/5 gives you 92.2-5.3-2.4, but Sn is more than double the Sb.

    So, am I missing something here? Is there some advantage to having a higher proportion of Sn than Sb?

    Just curious.
    Jerry

  13. #13
    Boolit Master stubert's Avatar
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    I don't know what it would be called now , I am using the old Lyman recipe for #2, 9 lbs ww and 1 lb 50/50 solder (lead/tin). Bullets usually are keepers after half a dozen pours. Most of what I cast are 44 cal. or larger , I use them in pistols without a check and rifles with a check. I never have problems with fill out. I also get my ww free, I'm buddies with a guy who owns a 8 bay repair shop. And I get my 50/50 solder from another buddy that fixes boilers.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by kawalekm View Post
    I've been saying that all along, but everybody keeps poo pooing the amount of tin I am using. In reality, my alloy probably costs less because I get all my wheelweights for free and I buy tin/pewter at flea markets and garage sales for ~1$ per pound. My standard recipe to make #2 alloy is 19 lbs of melted wheelweight lead mixed with 1lb of lead-free tin solder or 1lb of recycled pewter.
    I asked about high tin alloys here, and was told to slug my bore and forget about it. The fact I had a lot of tin meant nothing, and was told to trade it off.

    I have over 100 lbs of tin and know I can get more easy. Pewter is an easy score at yard sales, I never fail to pick some up cheap. I also loaded up on Monotype. Wheelweights, on the other hand, I recently tripled my score- I've gone from 2 lbs to 6! (Nearly) pure lead is what I have the most of.

    I recently cast some 1:16 hunting bullets and they came out nice. I'm going to try some other mixes, like Lyman #2 next. I'll use the old linotype recipe ratio but use my lead, solder and Monotype instead. Gotta find some way to get rid of all this tin and antimony.

    -HF

  15. #15
    Boolit Master

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    You cannot make Lyman #2 alloy just using pure lead and 95-5 solder. Also there is no advantage to having SN content greater than SB.
    Since Hangfire has a good source for 60/40 I suggest one contacthim and see if you can make a deal. I already did.
    Larry

  16. #16
    Boolit Mold
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    I have used a mix of 10# wheelweight and 1# 50/50 solder with good results for years in centerfire rifles. Not exactly Lyman #2, but a good alloy nevertheless. Have shot it up to 2400 fps with little to no leading issues. Is somewhere around 5% tin, 3.5% antimony, and 91.5 lead depending on the wheelweights actual composition.
    Jim

  17. #17
    Boolit Bub
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    I've been using the following receipt I found on The Los Angeles Silhouette Club's web site. Works for me.
    Linotype - 2 pounds
    Wheel weights - 5 pounds
    Tin Antimony Lead
    1.5% 6.3% 92.2%
    Nearly Lyman # 2 BHN

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check