Pyrodex pellets in C&B revolver???

[rogerthat]

I never shoot without eye and ear protection. The CCI #11s I use have been reliable except for a fragment jamming the cylinder once. The blown out fragments followed the nipple on around and hung it after the next shot. Other than that, a little pinch before seating them and they seem to stay put. Hope that remains true. I've got the nipple wrench and dedicated cleaning rod and bore swab etc. for the BP pistol (so I don't mix my regular gun cleaning chemicals accidentally) and use hot water with a little mild soap. There was an awkward moment the first time I dunked a pistol in my kitchen sink. Just didn't quite seem right. But it cleaned up nicely and I finish-coated it with olive oil as I had been told this was a good coating oil for BP pistols. I'll make it a point to place a little lube on the nipple threads from now on so they don't weld themselves into place.

Thanks for all the tips.

[JIMinPHX]

Jim. Pyrodex and other BP substitutes are much more corrosive than black powder.

I had always been told the opposite. I never tested it myself. Is there some way that we can confirm this?

[Bloodman14]

Since we're talkin' '51 Colt Confederate Navies (in foty-fo', mind you), here is my .02.
I bought the Pyro pellets just for something new to try. I can't tell any difference between those and loose Pyro (P). I couldn't justify the expense of Wonder Wads after using them, so I lubed my RB's with LLA, thinking that it would lube/seal just fine. I was right, it also cleans up pretty well. I cast some RB's in .451 from WW's, thinking logically that the smaller dia. would make for the hardness. I was right, there, too. I don't use Crisco or lard for grease, I picked up a can of Extreme Pressure Moly Disulfide at Autozone, and use it in all my guns. Best gun grease out there!
I under stand that the RB should be loaded to just flush/under the face of the cylinder; I also understand that there should be no airspace between the powder and the RB. If I load to cylinder face, I can hear the powder moving in the cyl. If I load to the powder, the RB is well below the cyl. face. Which is correct? I load to the powder to keep it consistent. No problems so far, FWIW

[mooman76]

You want no air gap with BP or BP substiutes. It's a saftey issue. The just below flush is probably for better accuracy but you don't want to override saftey for a little bit of accuracy.

[Archer]

Jim. Pyrodex and other BP substitutes are much more corrosive than black powder.

APP powder claims it isn't corrosive at all,
and cleans up with just water.
I tried some, and so far they were right.
Pyrodex, on the other hand, is corrosive
as all heck.

[TAWILDCATT]

I dont know to much as I dont shoot them .but I have a new renagade in 50 cal and a flint in 45.a rem and colt repos.I did have a rem 45 colt and a rem 44 from the civil war.found originals are sighted to 75 yds.
have fun

[JIMinPHX]

I under stand that the RB should be loaded to just flush/under the face of the cylinder; I also understand that there should be no airspace between the powder and the RB. If I load to cylinder face, I can hear the powder moving in the cyl. If I load to the powder, the RB is well below the cyl. face. Which is correct? I load to the powder to keep it consistent. No problems so far, FWIW

Always load the ball down against the charge. If you want to load with the ball up higher, then either add more powder or add more wads or use a filer material like grits over the wad & under the ball. Everything needs to be seated firmly together.

[Bloodman14]

Jim, that is a waste of grits! Maybe Malt-o-Meal? I'll just load to powder, it's easier!
Thanks for the info.