Quality control

[NSP64]

I took a newbie to the range this weekend and he had bought some Magtech ammo (to get me brass to load for him) in 357 and some Remington 22 subsonics. We had 2 (out of 30) failure to fires in the 357 and 8 (out of 50) in the 22. I pulled the 357 and it had powder and the primers looked normal (unfired). So the primers were either without mixture or contaminated. Anyone else have any problems or increase in problems since the buying frenzy started.

[JSnover]

I haven't bought primers in a while but .22 rimfires can be picky. What were you shooting them in?

[NSP64]

Brand new Ruger 10/22. Picked them up and turned them, dropped them in so the firing pin struck a different area of the rim, no good. Tried them in my Marlin still no fire. @ 3.99/50 rnds I expected better then the one that are 1.79/50.

[docone31]

NSP, you have to headspace the 10/22.
Optimal headspaceing is .042, I headspaced mine at .044. I like the non-chainfire feature with that measurement.
When I started, the first measurement was .055, nominal rim measurement is .042. That is a large difference.
It is not that hard to headspace the 10/22. Any flat sander can do it as long as you keep the bolt square. Go slowly.
I also chamfer the rear of the bolt. It helps with marginal ammo also.
Pinning the firing pin can also help. The movement of the firing pin, coupled with excessive headspace can make multiple misfires.
I also pinned the reciever, but that is another issue.

[NSP64]

how do you headspace the 10/22? I've never had one apart, is there something to adjust?

Never mind I ggogled it.

[docone31]

The 10/22 is simpler than a 1911.
Chamfering the bolt makes the bolt "quieter" recocking the hammer. It does make a difference. The little 10/22 usually have the first shot flyer. Succeeding rounds are dead on.
Pinning the firing pin, headspaceing is simple.
I built my wife one. I got a 24" GM barrel, routed out the factory stock, cut down the front barrel hold down so It looks good, but does nothing.
Now, here is a real trick.
Clamp down on the factory hold down to the reciever, then remove the action and gob on Crazy Glue where the bolt is on the wood. Also, where the bottom of the reciever goes. BadaBing, BadaBoom, you have just bedded the reciever! You can exchange the 10/32 machine screw holding down the action for a 1/4 28 Allen bolt, but I never had to.
Replaceing the trigger and assembly is a must. Makes a substantial difference. I also added a recoil pad.
What! A recoil pad? On a 10/22?
Yes indeed. It increases the LOP by 1". Makes a big difference at 100yds.
I mounted a 6 X 24 X 55 scope on it.
How about 10rds on the #10 at 100yds? My wife did that last we went to the range. Headspaceing elimantes most of the first round flyer syndrome, and with the 24" .920 barrel, Bentz Chambered, it is no longer the throw away Toy. I made it for my wife so she could get used to another type of rifle. She had never shot before we met. Now, she is fluent in paper patching, centerfires, she has a 1911 all her own. I built her a race gun to teach her how to shoot.
I am planning on converting her 10/22 into a mag. by chambering the muzzle end and moving the trigger group back 1/4". This way, I can "flip" the barrel, move the trigger group, and use the standard 22mag magazine. I am also working on makeing the reciever and barrel cleanable witout haveing to go through the muzzle.
Those are great rifles. A good way to learn precision shooting without haveing to unlearn flinch. Her 10/22 allows me to teach her how to fire a rifle, fix malfunctions, without her panicking. She loves my .303 British, but her 10/22 is growing on her also.