easiest 50 alaskan conversion

[stef76]

Hi Fellas, what converts easier/cheapest if a fella has both. A 1895 in 45-70 or a Browning 71 in 348 win? I thought the 348 might just be a rebarrel and some tweaking but not being a levergun expert may be there is a lot more work than what seems obvious. i would get a competent smith either way.

Also wondered if anyone might have reduced loads for the 50 alaskan. I was hoping someone might have worked up loads with 2400 powder specfically as have a lot on hand and load reduced bottleneck cases with it. Any other reduced loads/powders welcomed also from light hunting down to subsonic. Im not looking to break any speed records, in fact some 'trapdoor' level loads are one I am hoping for.

As you can tell I am seriously considering this project and lining up ducks before hand. No practical reason except I want a 50 cal in the collection

[cwtebay]

I'm thinking that the 71 would be far simpler. I've never seen an 1895 in 45-70 other than a few conversions, but I'm not sure that the magazine would hold the cartridge without modifications.
I perused through the books that I have and don't see anything with 2400.

Sent from my Pixel 9 Pro XL using Tapatalk

[John Taylor]

I usually do 1886 conversions to 50-110. The 1886 does have a feeding issue with the Alaskan, the shorter cartridge tries to flip out of the gun if the action is worked fast. My own 71 is converted to 50-100 and works great. The main problem with a conversion is the fatter body of the 50. The inside of the action needs to be opened up to get the cartridge into the mag tube. The lever sometimes needs to be relieved for the same reason, the loading gate hits against it. The feed rails need to have about .020" removed.

[longbow]

You can use .50-90 or .50-110 Winchester load data as the .50 Alaskan is basically the same brass, just slightly shorter.

The Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook 3rd. ed shows load data for .50-90 Sharps which is the same cartridge. No 2400 load data though.

Also here is a link to some load data

https://levergunscommunity.org/viewtopic.php?t=86486

Again, no 2400 just Accurate 5744.

Longbow

[GL49]

I usually do 1886 conversions to 50-110. The 1886 does have a feeding issue with the Alaskan, the shorter cartridge tries to flip out of the gun if the action is worked fast. My own 71 is converted to 50-100 and works great. The main problem with a conversion is the fatter body of the 50. The inside of the action needs to be opened up to get the cartridge into the mag tube. The lever sometimes needs to be relieved for the same reason, the loading gate hits against it. The feed rails need to have about .020" removed.

John,
Have you done any of these conversions on a Uberti, Chiappa (or other) rifle? Do you have an opinion of their quality versus other brands? I've got a couple of Browning 45-70 1886 rifles I'd hate to cut up but a new or used 1886 of another manufacture to be converted to 50-110 would interest me.

Any reason your rifle is 50-100 rather than 50-110? I'd thought about a 50 Alaskan but now after reading your post I'm wondering if I should rethink that.

[John Taylor]

John,
Have you done any of these conversions on a Uberti, Chiappa (or other) rifle? Do you have an opinion of their quality versus other brands? I've got a couple of Browning 45-70 1886 rifles I'd hate to cut up but a new or used 1886 of another manufacture to be converted to 50-110 would interest me.

Any reason your rifle is 50-100 rather than 50-110? I'd thought about a 50 Alaskan but now after reading your post I'm wondering if I should rethink that.

The 50-100 and 50-110 use the same chamber, difference is one uses a 300 grain bullet nd the other uses a 450 grain bullet. The 50-100 has less powder room with the longer bullet so it is called a 50-100-450. On the early 1886 there is a small arm that pulls the case all the way back on the carrier. This may help if going to the 50 Alaskan.
I have run into small variations even in original 1886 rifles. I had a Japanese 1886 in 45-70 takedown come in and the customer wanted a few extra barrels. One was 50-110, one 45-90 and another was 348. I tried some Buffalo Bore ammo in the 348 and the gun locked up, as in it would not open after firing. Dropping the hammer again it would open. With Winchester ammo it worked fine.
The early 1886 had problems with the mag tube not staying in the gun. Later ones and the motel 71 have the mag tube threaded to the frame. When opening up the frame for the larger diameter case to feed into the magazine you end up taking some of the threads out on the right side. With Marline rifle they fixed the problem by putting a budge in the left side of the mag tube, I often wondered if that could be done on a Winchester. I have not done the conversion on a Uberti or Chiappa so can't answer your question.

[oldbear1950]

Years ago, I read of both a 450 ALASKAN AND 50 ALASKAN on Marlin 1895 actions. I saw on you tube a model 71 converted to 50 ALASKAN by TURNBULL RESTORATIONS, and that was a beautiful rifle and worked fawlessly.
In 1975 when I was transferred to ALASKA, there was a gunsmith in Anchorage I think it was, did the work. I do not think he is still alive now. Might try and get a hold of WILD WEST GUNS IN Anchorage and see if they can help

[greyhawk]

The 50-100 and 50-110 use the same chamber, difference is one uses a 300 grain bullet nd the other uses a 450 grain bullet. The 50-100 has less powder room with the longer bullet so it is called a 50-100-450. On the early 1886 there is a small arm that pulls the case all the way back on the carrier. This may help if going to the 50 Alaskan.
Is this the "carrier hook"

I have run into small variations even in original 1886 rifles. I had a Japanese 1886 in 45-70 takedown come in and the customer wanted a few extra barrels. One was 50-110, one 45-90 and another was 348. I tried some Buffalo Bore ammo in the 348 and the gun locked up, as in it would not open after firing. Dropping the hammer again it would open. With Winchester ammo it worked fine.
The early 1886 had problems with the mag tube not staying in the gun. Later ones and the motel 71 have the mag tube threaded to the frame. When opening up the frame for the larger diameter case to feed into the magazine you end up taking some of the threads out on the right side. With Marline rifle they fixed the problem by putting a budge in the left side of the mag tube, I often wondered if that could be done on a Winchester. I have not done the conversion on a Uberti or Chiappa so can't answer your question.

I bought a Chiappa - used - had done 6 rounds and got traded back to the LGS - they told me it kicked too hard for the bloke - so I got it pretty right, came home , thing would not feed from the magazine - the rounds would not go proper depth into the carrier - rims too fat . (I wonder why he returned it?)

kinda pssss'd - was gonna take it back - but I decided to shoot it before I did, so screwed a peep on it and fired ten rounds of blackpowder with the 405 grain modifided LEE ----rarely seen a lever gun shoot that good ! change of mind about the return so decided to fix it (I have a Browning 71 to kind of copy off so that helped) maybe went about this wrong but I opened up the carrier until the rims would slide home comfortable, at that point still glitchy so I oiled it good and cranked the lever 100times, then made a dummy round, sat on the lounge and fed the dummy through the gate and through a full cycle 100times .

Not been shot a lot but hasnt missed a beat since and it is one accurate piece.
No longer scared about dismantling an 1886 !

I went back to the LGS and told old mate that sold it the full story - needed him to know he didnt fool me - but in the end everybody won

[beechbum444]

I like the idea of putting a 50 Alaskan in a lever gun....but I've wondered how hard it would be to put in a Siamese Mauser action. I know its a bolt gun and not the same, but I have pondered it......

[snowwolfe]

Another thought is to skip the 50 and purchase one of new reproduction 1886's in 45-90. The lawyers say these are labeled for black powder only but plenty of people load them up and they can approach the power of the .458 Win Mag (if your shoulder can handle it).
Starline sells brass.
Whatever you decide to go with make sure you have a nice supply of brass before tackling the project.

[missionary5155]

Good morning
For years I wanted a cal.50 lever gun. But I also saw the prices of original 1886's being well beyond our budget.
Fast forward to about 15 years ago when a jap 1886 with a 26" octagon barrel NOS 45-70 fell into our hands for $600 out the door. Heavy brute but great for sitting on a hill calling yotes. Back then, ILL-Noise was still keeping the center fire deer season "verboten".

We did buy a 1876 (chappi) high # in 50-95 from CDNN for under $500 when they were closing those out. We got a good one that filled my hunger for a couple years with a 350 grain FN that will shoot very nicely out to 200 yd. using a full buckhorn Marbles rear and a slightly taller front sight.

Then I read about the 50 Alaskan. That was what I was looking for. A versital chambering that would get 500 grains into the barrel.
So the jap 86 got re-bored by JES (thankyou) to .512. Started shooting it as a single shot as soon as I could. Yes the lifter needs work. Yes the mag tube / frame needs work. Start at the inside lip of the loading gate making it curved. Then the frame. Our's will load the 525 grain SP (cast) but the FN NOE's series are much better loading. Cycling from the mag tube to chamber with the FN was eased by rounding the chamber mouth to remove the sharp edge.
It took awhile to figure it through and you will learn alot about the quirks putting the 86 (jap) back together.
But it feeds and shoots great. Still a bit heavy to "all day" carry but I would still do so. Really is great to sit behind it using cross sticks and waiting on a corn cruncher to amble along sniffing out where the apple small is coming from.

Then a 71 became available some years back made by John Taylor. I have had numerous jobs done by him and would send any other job I need done to him. The 71 50AK is one fine rifle to haul about anywhere I desire to have a lighter rifle for all day wanderings.

Buy a box of Starline Brass. Get a 500 or 525 FN NOE mold. The 450 or 500 grain LEE Molds shoot well also. .510 or fatter work. Stay away form the .500
for the SW cartridge unless you shoot one of them in a 500 SW carbine (fun) or handgun (no desire as we have a .475 BFR).
Mike in SE AZ.