removing old fold crimp

[JAMESGR]

When you are going to roll crimp a shotgun hull, what do you use to remove the old fold crimp????
Thank for the info
James
JAMESGR

[K43]

I have one of these.
https://www.lumbernut.com/product-pa...n-shell-cutter

[JAMESGR]

Thanks
The video shows this cuts the hull into two pieces. All I need is to remove the old fold crimp so I can roll crimp the hull.
James
JAMESGR

[K43]

You don't have to stick the whole thing in.
There are many otheres, and many are cheaper. Just google shotgun hull trimmer or cutter.

[Agent1187]

I don't think there is much out there for small tools that can smooth out a fold crimp for rolling.

Personally, I chuck up a 3/4" rod in the lathe and slide a hull on that. Hit it with a heat gun for 3-5 seconds, and then iron out the folds with a bearing in my hand.

[Barry54]

https://www.ballisticproducts.com/Sp...tinfo/SPINDOC/

I’ve been thinking about picking up one of these to see if it would work well enough to roll crimp afterwards. It seems promising after reading the reviews.

[GhostHawk]

I have a spin doctor and it is a great tool IMO. However most of my loading has been with new hulls so I have not used mine much.

I suspect agent1187's method would work as well.

[wire nut]

I roll crimp 410 bore. Cut a piece of 1/2 inch of pvc pipe. Just insert hull into pipe and cut with a sharp utility knife. Works great for me and the hulls are a consistent lenghtp

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[Soundguy]

hull conditioners..skivvers and cutters...all help in some way.

[longbow]

You might want to consider a "Randy mandrel" rather than the Spin Docotor". Scroll down to post #11:

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...690-round-ball

I made a Spin Doctor (being too cheap to buy one) and found that it worked... sort of. See post #12.

I found the taper was a bit much and with some hulls by the time I had the folds ironed out the hull mouth was expanded rather far and some split. So I followed Randy's idea and use a piece of 3/4" round bar with a tapered nose on it and it works great just as Randy says. I made a couple fo rme and a friend.

You shouldn't even need a lathe to make a Randy mandrel, a drill press and a file should do the job. You just need a piece of 3/4" cold rolled steel then put a good bevel on the nose. It would help to be able to turn a reduced diameter shank on the other end or drill and tap (on center) for a smaller diameter bolt to fit a drill press or hand drill chuck.

I guess a basic version could be made just using 3/4" round bar with a good bevel on the end then warm that up and push into the hull, heat the hull with a hot air gun and roll the hull over a flat piece of metal or flat wood surface to iron out the folds.

The Randy mandrel does work well and doesn't damage hulls!

Longbow

[HWooldridge]

I have found it easier to remove the existing folded star crimp if you plan to roll crimp. I tried the various straightening gadgets but finally decided to just make my own, which uses a utility knife blade (the trapezoid shaped version). The jig is adjustable for length, so I cut away the factory fold then apply a card and roll crimp on the first reloading cycle. The overall shell length will come out slightly shorter but they always cycle in my guns and no worse for wear.

A roll crimp doesn't require much material because the card does all the work - you just need the crimp to keep the card in place and against the shot charge.

[W.R.Buchanan]

Thanks Longbow!

The Mandrel is simple to make but don't use steel, Use a piece of 3/4" Aluminum round bar. You can either turn or file a taper on the round bar and either turn the other end so it fits in a Drill Chuck or Drill and Tap for a 1/4-1/2" Bolt to fit in a Drill Motor Chuck.

The other part of the system is a Heat Gun, ( Harbor Freight) you need one to heat the plastic up so it becomes more malleable. I set the heat gun on a table pointing towards me, then push the hull onto the mandrel while spinning it slowly. It will completely iron the crimps out so you can trim it to the length you need.

Lets say you cut off half the Existing Crimp. What is left will fold down into the hull during the roll crimping operation. I have used my set up mainly for repurposing the Blue Remington Tactical Slug Hulls. They have a Roll Crimp but it is badly distorted after firing. Running it onto the mandrel while it is turning in front of the heat gun straitens it out to where you can't tell it was ever crimped. They roll crimp just like new hulls after that, and I have reloaded a bunch of them with Lee Slugs, and Lyman/MP Slugs for 3 gun shoots.

Hot tip: Use a glove on the hand that pushes the hull onto the mandrel while it is being heated. You'll figure this out on your own quickly!

Randy

[Barry54]

Looks good Randy! Thanks for the photos.

[longbow]

I haven't used aluminum, mine are steel but work just fine and much better than the Spin Doctor. Maybe I'll make an aluminum Randy Mandrel too!

I will add that with the hulls I use I have to watch the heat as they will start to soften too much and even melt if I am not careful. Best warm up the mandrel well and not use a lot of heat on the hulls in my experience. That may depend on the hull used too.

Longbow

[2TM101]

You don't have to stick the whole thing in.
There are many otheres, and many are cheaper. Just google shotgun hull trimmer or cutter.

https://tatvcanada.com/?product=shot...rimmer-kit-12g

https://www.ballisticproducts.com/Tr...uctinfo/TRIM2/

https://www.ballisticproducts.com/Sp...tinfo/1172002/

The last one actually looks best, and is brand new. Unfortunately also out of stock as I type this.

[2TM101]

I have found it easier to remove the existing folded star crimp if you plan to roll crimp.
A roll crimp doesn't require much material because the card does all the work - you just need the crimp to keep the card in place and against the shot charge.

I shoot Black Powder and can only star crimp someone else's once-fired. After that star crimps do not work. I cut off the folded part right at the base of the crimp and Roll it after that, makes a 2 1/2" shell for my old guns. With Smokeless you can keep trimming off the crimp all the way down to 1 7/8" mini shells but I always have holes burned in the plastic way before I ever that that far.

[longbow]

I just use pieces of 3/4" steel pipe cut to length and faced on a lathe as case length cutting guides and a utility knife to cut. Works fine for me.

Yes, BP tends to be hard on plastic hulls! They seem to get crispy and holes do burn through.

Longbow

[HWooldridge]

I shoot Black Powder and can only star crimp someone else's once-fired. After that star crimps do not work. I cut off the folded part right at the base of the crimp and Roll it after that, makes a 2 1/2" shell for my old guns. With Smokeless you can keep trimming off the crimp all the way down to 1 7/8" mini shells but I always have holes burned in the plastic way before I ever that that far.

Agreed. I also try to find the Federal paper shells whenever possible, although I do have a lot of AA plastic shells. I used to work with a trap and skeet shooter who didn’t reload, so he fed me with empties regularly - so many that I would reload once then toss. He quit a few years ago so I started getting more frugal.

[JAMESGR]

Thanks for the replies, A friend and I tried the BPI cutter and were not happy with the results. I, also, tried a piece of 3/4" pvc pipe and there was too much slack to get a good trim.
Has any one used a Harris hull trimer???
James

[TNsailorman]

https://tatvcanada.com/?product=shot...rimmer-kit-12g

https://www.ballisticproducts.com/Tr...uctinfo/TRIM2/

https://www.ballisticproducts.com/Sp...tinfo/1172002/

The last one actually looks best, and is brand new. Unfortunately also out of stock as I type this.

I have both of those Ballistic product trimmers and the last one is adjustable for wherever you want to cut he hull. It does an excellent job also. The wooden one is NOT adjustable, it cut the hull just below the wad and that is what it was intended to do. james