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Thread: Trying to get it right

  1. #1
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
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    Trying to get it right

    I have a bunch of cast bullets that I am setting up for 25-20.
    I cannot seem to get the sizer holes lined up properly no matter what i do.
    I have the top 2 lube rows open and the bottom is plugged
    Maybe try the bottom 2 rows and plug the top?
    I am open to any suggestions.
    I have run this from as deep as possible to as little as possible and cannot get it lined up properly.
    These are GC's bullets and I would like to use the GC's if that makes any difference.
    Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

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    this is the exact reason i started powder coating, spent more time fiddling and making a mess than getting it done. dont have any ideas because im a quitter when it comes to lubesizing
    if you are ever being chased by a taxidermist, don't play dead

  3. #3
    Boolit Master WRideout's Avatar
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    Can I assume you are using a Lyman lubrisizer? FWIW I had trouble with mine until I discovered that the push rod had a round end and a square end. When the round end was doing the pushing, it allowed lube to flow under the bottom of the boolit.

    Wayne
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  4. #4
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
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    Oops - Star Sizer
    Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
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    Does the 25-20 bullet have two lube grooves? Take the sizing die out of the sizer and place the bullet next to it. Can you line up the lube grooves with the die holes? This will tell you which holes to use if you can line them up. It will also give you a rough estimate of how far the punch has to push the bullet into the die. Assuming nose first measure from base of bullet to top of die.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master



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    The distance between lube grooves in your bullet kinda needs to match the distance between the rows of lube holes in your size die. Measure the distance center to center of the two lube grooves in your bullets - Then measure the distance center to center of your two top rows of holes , and your two bottom rows of holes in your size die. If neither of you two options for two rows of holes in the size die work ( Match the distance between your lube grooves ), your probably not going to find a perfect lube match for the bullet you have. You might get close - but the rest of it will be trial and error with adjustment to get some lube in both grooves. I hope that makes some sense to you.
    Being human is not for sissies.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paper Puncher View Post
    Does the 25-20 bullet have two lube grooves? Take the sizing die out of the sizer and place the bullet next to it. Can you line up the lube grooves with the die holes? This will tell you which holes to use if you can line them up. It will also give you a rough estimate of how far the punch has to push the bullet into the die. Assuming nose first measure from base of bullet to top of die.
    Actually one lube groove and the area just above the gas check.
    Believe me, I have done that ten time and measured and remeasured.
    Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
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    With one lube groove you only need one row of holes in the die. So plug another row (two rows plugged).

  9. #9
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paper Puncher View Post
    With one lube groove you only need one row of holes in the die. So plug another row (two rows plugged).
    But the area above the gas check and the drive band........that should be lubed also, no?
    That makes 2 holes according to my math.
    Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    I've never even seen a Star lube-sizer but think they all work the same basic way. The holes in the die don't have to align perfectly with the lube grooves of the bullet, the bullet just has to pass by the die holes and linger long enough for lube to flow through.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    Only leave one row of holes open and line up the holes with one lube groove. I have plugged holes and drilled new ones where I need them. IMHO the area above the gc doesn't need lube. The nice thing about the Star is that if properly set up it puts lube only where you want it. I also make my own Star dies and put holes where I want them.
    I also use a RCBS and a Lyman lube sizer for smaller batches of boolits where the time to set up the Star takes longer than using the others.
    I have also tried PC but I'm not happy with the fuss of coating, baking and then sizing. Cast them then through the Star and they are done.

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by FISH4BUGS View Post
    But the area above the gas check and the drive band........that should be lubed also, no?
    That makes 2 holes according to my math.
    I don't think it is necessary to lube the area of the gas check. Many try to avoid lube at the base of the bullet to keep it out of the powder. What mold # are you using?

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35 Rem View Post
    I've never even seen a Star lube-sizer but think they all work the same basic way. The holes in the die don't have to align perfectly with the lube grooves of the bullet, the bullet just has to pass by the die holes and linger long enough for lube to flow through.
    The Star is different than Lyman and RCBS. The Star only puts pressure on the lube at the end of the stroke where it pushes the pump. The pressure screw for the reservoir on the Star is only meant to push lube into the pump. The Lyman and RCBS put constant pressure on the lube by turning the pressure screw at the top of the reservoir.

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy
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    A little late responding, hope you got it worked out but if not:
    If it is a magma general purpose die then from top to bottom the columns of holes are alternating. Column 1 holes are equal distance from top to bottom, Column 2 holes are set between the holes on column 1 and so forth. Most multi lube groove boolits will require an empty hole on each column vs two empty holes on the same column. Most of the time not always. As suggested lay the bullet down beside die and see which holes line up with empty lube grooves.

    Here is the math to know how far down the die the bottom of boolit needs to be.
    1-Place gas check on boolit and measure from GC to the groove you want filed. I'll use my 45-200 as an example. (.130)
    2-Measure to the open hole you want to use from the top of the die.(1.06) my 452 die.
    3- The math, 1.06 minus .130 equals .93. .93 is the base of the boolit from the top of the die assuming a nose first sizing. A little tricky to measure but with the star handle up most doable. I do use a ten power lens to do my measuring.

    I use the holes towards the middle and lower middle of column to size, never the holes close to the top or the bottom holes.
    Be sure the plugged holes are tight with the shot. Most folks know but some don't the holes are stepped, Outside of holes is larger, makes it easier to seal with shot without forcing lead to the inside of die. Also the top of the die is funneled every so slightly, so using the top holes without a good boolit seal could leak a little. Hope this info is of some use.
    Tony

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check