Just wondering what y'all use to lube your equipment and your guns. I use synthetic 2 stroke oil on every thing. It doesn't turn gummy and it stays liquid even in high temps. My molds really like it as does all my guns.
ACC
Just wondering what y'all use to lube your equipment and your guns. I use synthetic 2 stroke oil on every thing. It doesn't turn gummy and it stays liquid even in high temps. My molds really like it as does all my guns.
ACC
Man, are you opening a can of worms………
Sam Sackett
Depends of course. Best long range lube I've found outside of cosmoline is 0w20 full synthetic
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NEI soft lube. glad that i have a supply. don't know where i'll go when that is gone.
Oil, lube, worms! Who, What, Where, When, Why???
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ATF Dextron II or III. Makes my revolvers into sweet smooth running machine.
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Whatever happens to be handy. I literally have no preference for anything but Black Powder for which I use my modification of Emmert’s.
Froggie
"It aint easy being green!"
I use a bunch of different stuff - Remoil, Hoppes gun oil, 3 in 1 oil, Microil, original CLP (only a dab left), and Eezox.
Remoil is my least favorite for lubrication. I use it more for cleaning, and I did use it for wipedown, but I've switched to Eezox for wipedown after getting a spot of rust on my Winchester 1892.
I like the smell of 3in1 oil, and for the old timey feel it is great.
Hoppes gun oil is decent, and I use it.
Mircroil seems to be good stuff, and I use it too.
The original CLP, I just have a little pocket bottle that I got at a yardsale. Used it a few times and I like it, but no reason to fall in love with it.
I will use Remoil if that is the only thing I have and I must have lube. It's handy for spraying in a 22 automatic that needs immediate help on the range.
Mobile one where things rub. A very light coat of Oters gun oil in the bore.
Steve,
Life Member NRA
Colorado Rifle Club member
Rocky Mtn Gun Owners member
NAGR member
Anything except Breakfree CLP. It is not a very good cleaner unless you subscribe to the clean it three days in a row theory. It will turn to varnish in less than a month. It will work as a penetrant if you wet punch the bore in the evening and let it sit overnight.
Bad memories from using it in the 1980's on board ship. This was when it still had Teflon that needed shaking before use.
I actually like the Ed's Red compatible ATF/Kerosene mix.
Robert
I thought it was LSA that had the "shake well before use" TEFLON in it.
Rights, and Privileges, are not synonymous. We have the Right to Bear Arms. As soon as the Government mandates firearm registration, and permiting, then that Right becomes a Privilege, and may be taken away at our Master's discretion.
Slip 2000. I’ve pretty much used most commercial gun oils and ime slip 2000 is best. It’s also an excellent bore cleaner.
I had a young fellow ask me on the range last week what I use to keep the exterior of my guns from rusting. I was shocked, because I've never had any problem with rusting. I told him I'm starting to use Ballistol more, but my main lube/protectant is to mix up a few ounces of a home brew at the time and keep it in a squeeze bottle on the workbench. The main ingredient is what's in the picture, plus a little Mobil 1 synthetic and a squirt of WD-40.
0W20 Synthetic on most stuff in shop and moving parts on most guns, have tried many, really not much difference among most of them, hammer sear notches get a grease, usually an automotive bearing grease. I do wipe down EXTERIOR metal with WD40 for finish protection.
The two oils I use most on reloading equipment is made by Norvey Inc in Santa Ana, CA, "Lilly White Oil" and "Turbine Oil" (or "Squirrel Cage Oil") they come in the "Original Zoom Spout Oiler". The Liliy White is sewing machine oil, very light flows into tight spots and is perfect for moving parts on presses and lube sizers, the Turbine Oil is for HVAC blowers and it's perfect for wiping down things like dies so they don't rust, it never gets gummy like 3-in-1 or motor oil. I bought a six pack of each oil 5 or 6 years ago and put bottles in the garage, the barn, tool chest, and my reloading bench. I use those oils on all kinds of stuff, a little goes a long way, still have half or more of each left. I use them on my guns too.
It's not too often but if not those then non detergent 30 weight motor oil, Kroil, or Ballistol.
I’ve used mostly Ballistol, but have switched to Gunex, which is made by Ballistol since 1952. Traditional Ballistol is water soluble, that can be useful for some applications. However, I found that it doesn’t protect that well on my wall hangers, that are not shot often and therefore not oiled down as frequently as other guns. I can’t say I swear by it because I’ve just started using it.
Years ago when synthetic first became popular, people started using it in their airplane engins in Alaska. Unfortunately, most people didn’t use their planes in winter. There started being a lot of camshaft problems. The theory was that the synthetic was so thin and slippery, that it drained off the camshaft and rust could form in the damp springs. Everyone started using a simi-synthétic. Shell 15W50. That was a while ago and many things have evolved.
0w-20 or Lucas gun oil currently.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |