Willy Snyder
PO Box 2732
Pocatello, ID 83206
By the time you get it indicated in x axis y axis square and true then swing in the cavity you are going to be 45 mins or so into it then swing in each cavity to zero. On the square you can get close with the top surface but are the cavities square to the top? On a custom mould probably very on a production mould maybe not.
This is one of those jobs where set up is everything and working off someone else's work requires everything to be checked. In reality your going to spend more time with the indicator than actually cutting.
A member here named Buckshot used to do this work but he has retired.
Ammohead may [still[ do that; also Eric Ohlen.
Last edited by Maven; 08-13-2024 at 11:58 AM.
I'm looking to break into the market if anyone is looking for someone to do this type of work very economically. Yes, by far more work indicating and setup than the actual cut, but that is literally every job that you do with a manual machine.
Some of what you want to do is quite easy and several posters here have milled moulds to make boolits lighter, removed gas check shanks and lapped to make cavities cast larger.
For cas check shank removal you can use a drill press though they are not as precise in alignment as a milling machine. Ben has had good results using correct drill size in a drill press:
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...gas-check-step
scroll to post #11 and look at the pic links he posted.
Removing a bevel base would be the same procedure as removing a gas check shank.
For gas check shank or bevel base removal, depending on the cavity diameter, there are choices of standard drill bits, number and letter drill bits, purchased reamers or making a D-bit to exact diameter you need. All can be used with a drill press or better, a milling machine.
Cast diameter can be increased by Beagling or lapping. Beagling is easier and can gain you up to about 0.003". Lapping is harder and in my experience getting much more than about 0.002" is hard... at least with a multi cavity mould in keeping diameters the same and not losing sharp edges on driving bands.
Where there is a will there is a way! If you can do the work yourself you can save a bunch of money. If you have to pay then Hollowpoint Molds is likely a good bet.
Longbow
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |