Anneal 22 Hornet Necks?

[deltaenterprizes]

I just started reloading 22 Hornet ammo and I had a neck split when using a Lyman M die to expand the neck.
Unknown number of times the brass has been fired but I would like to avoid more losses.
Does anyone anneal the neck of their 22 Hornet brass?

[Charlie Horse]

No. I've never annealed it. Yes. I've had split necks. Work that hornet brass as little as possible.

What I do is partial size. You back off the sizing die around 2/3 of a rotation from what you usually set it at for full-length sizing. That has helped with both accuracy and case life.
For jacketed you don't bell the mouth. Just lightly chamfer. For cast, be berry, berry careful, like Elmer Fudd used to say. I've always used gas checks so an inside chamfer worked and I didn't have to bell the mouths.

[Delkal]

I never annealed my hornet cases but if you do be very careful when you heat them. Since the brass is so thin it would be easy to overheat and trash them.

[Tripplebeards]

I’m watching this post myself. I’m guilty of not loading up enough hornet yet and I have to get on it!!! I was gonna start neck sizing only with my classic lee loader with once fired brass instead of my RCBS full length sizer. I would assume that lightly annealing the thin necks would help?

[high standard 40]

I do anneal my 22 Hornet brass. I have one particular lot of 100 pieces that I have loaded 26 times. I've only lost 2 cases out of this lot. I do have to be careful annealing because as stated above the brass is very thin. If Hornet brass was more readily available and at a lower price I could possibly take a different approach

[deltaenterprizes]

I do anneal my 22 Hornet brass. I have one particular lot of 100 pieces that I have loaded 26 times. I've only lost 2 cases out of this lot. I do have to be careful annealing because as stated above the brass is very thin. If Hornet brass was more readily available and at a lower price I could possibly take a different approach

Agree that it is not readily available or cheap!
That is why I am considering annealing them.
Thanks for the input!

[Tripplebeards]

I anneal mine using a butane torch and spinning a socket. That’s the closest size and a cordless drill to anneal them. I would assume only a couple seconds at the most on each one because they’re so small and thin. I normally count to 10 when I’m doing my rifle brass but I would assume to count maybe three or four at max with the thin hornet cases? I would assume just barely enough heat to get them soft again.

[high standard 40]

I am Neil mine using a butane torch and spinning a socket. That’s the closest size and a cordless drill to anneal them. I would assume only a couple seconds at the most on each one because they’re so small and thin. I normally count to 10 when I’m doing my rifle brass but I would assume to count maybe three or four at max with the thin hornet cases? I would assume just barely enough heat to get them soft again.

Or hold the torch a little farther away so the brass doesn't heat up so fast.

[Tripplebeards]

Or hold the torch a little farther away so the brass doesn't heat up so fast.

lol…you must watch me.

[Rapier]

I do the old fasoned way, cake pan with water level at half the case, standing, light a propane torch, turn off the lights, when case turns pink tip it over with the torch. Dry, polish in big blue, resize, expand, march on.
The 22 Hornet brass does not take much time to heat and annealing will save some brass loss from work hardening.

[Johnch]

I was having some split necks on the 218 Bee
I also have a Hornady 22 Cal neck sizing die
That only sizes the neck or part of the neck that you want to size
As original the die wouldn't size the 218 Bee neck
So I removed some of the unneeded bottom of the die

So I can now size the neck of 22 cal cases and not touch the shoulder

While not a cure all
It helps

John

[country gent]

I believe the hornet and small cases are candidates for annealing in a lead pot of sand. or even lead. Controlled heat and time so shouldn't be a problem.

Bring pot up to 700* dip case in to depth/shoulder and a count.

One of the small micro butane micro torches might be good here. Or a small shield between flame and case.

I anneal all my cases in a lyman big dipper pot filled with silica sand ( for glass making). I have a stand in mine that sets the depth of the case and a plate with holes in the top to maintain placement. 12 holes in the ring as the case comes out another goes in working around the ring. This sets the depth of the anneal the time of the anneal and the pot sets the temp. I use sand but glass beads, or other fine heat proof material can be used as long as it transfers heat. Lead can be used but may solder on to cases. This has worked for me for a few years now.

A drill motor and socket will do well with a torch On small cases I would adjust the flame down as low as possible.

[deltaenterprizes]

Drill motor and socket with a small butane torch sounds like a good plan!

[Tripplebeards]

All this talk about hornet reminded me that my one size fits all plastic reloading blocks aren’t the greatest thing for a hornet case. I made a few 10 mm blocks and a couple of hornet blocks today. Down to sanding and varnishing. It was a hot one in the garage today fabricating load blocks from a multi wood cutting block.

[10x]

I anneal my 22 hornet brass, primers removed, heads in a pan of water.
With a torch in a dark room. The second the brass starts to change color it is pushed over in the water.
If the metal gives any hint of glow, you are using too much heat for too long.
I shoot 37 Grain PB powder coated bullets at 1750 fps. I have no idea of how many times my cases have been loaded, Some batches that started out as boxes of 50 factory and now short 2 -3 cases
I keep reloading 22 hornet brass until the neck fails during resizing. Now that I anneal the brass neck failure during resizing or bullet seating is very rare.

[quack1]

I anneal all my hornet, bee, 25-20, and 32-20 brass mainly because of their scarcity and cost to replace, and having consistent neck tension might add a little to their accuracy.
Tripplebeards- I use the plastic trays from factory 9mm ammunition for hornet loading blocks. Easy to find in the trash cans at the range. They also work for 222 and 223.

[brokeasajoke]

I have a k hornet and anneal my necks. Failure rate was high until I began annealing them. Don't forget a primer in one as it will scare the crap out of you at the very least.

[deltaenterprizes]

I have a k hornet and anneal my necks. Failure rate was high until I began annealing them. Don't forget a primer in one as it will scare the crap out of you at the very least.

That happened with some 223 brass that I was converting into 300 Blk!

[Tripplebeards]

I left a primer in one by accident. It launched like a rocket and stuck in a ceiling tile! Just finished one of my hornet blocks. I'll have to load some up now!

[deltaenterprizes]

I left a primer in one by accident. It launched like a rocket and stuck in a ceiling tile! Just finished one of my hornet blocks. I'll have to load some up now!

Nice!