22-250 to 250 Savage

[franzsodia]

I have a lot of new Rem 22-250 brass (long story) and no 22-250 rifle.
I have only 40 250-3000 brass and a 250 savage rifle (a custom mauser, not a Savage 99)
The distance from base to shoulder in the 22-250 case is just slightly longer than the 250 Savage.
I am wondering if anyone has ever made 250 Savage brass from new 22-250?
I think that running the 22-250 brass into the 250 Savage Full length die with the expander removed to bump the shoulder back and fireforming it would do it.
Questions:
1. Would you anneal the brass before running it into the 250 Savage FL die?
2. What fireforming load would you use - my only experience was fire forming 30-06 into 35Whelan and that was eons ago.
3. Would you anneal either after pushing the shoulder back or fireforming?
4. Do you think I am crazy?

[Duckiller]

I would think that running the 22/250 brass into a 250 neck sizer should make useable brass. I have both guns so what ever the head stamp says is what it gets shot in.

[mac60]

1. probably not.
2. 10% volume. Fill a case with Bullseye (for god sakes don't fire it) and weigh it. Take 10% of that and use that for starters. Take 1 square of tp and cut or tear into 4 pieces. Put that on top of the powder and fill the rest of the case with cream of wheat. Cap it off by pushing the mouth of the case into a piece of parrafin wax.
3. I would tend to anneal after pushing the shoulder back and before fireforming.
4. Not at all.
I used the above method to fireforem some 6.5 Carcano to 7.35 Carcano. It worked perfectly.

[K43]

My brother just ran the 22-250 brass into a full length 250 Savage die. Heads up; you need to lube the inside of the necks really well.
He didn't anneal, but I would have as I do whenever expanding necks up.

[country gent]

Im thinking with a tapered expander you could run into sizing die one pass with a good case lube like imperial sizing die wax.
Expanding up may make a slight decrease in case length.
I believe the 250-3000 case was the preferred case to make 22-250s when it was still a wild cat so turn about should work.
Depending on how much shoulder push back you need there may be a ring at the base of the neck that needs reamed or turned out.

[SOFMatchstaff]

Run a 6.5 creedmore into the 250 size die and you're done.. Works in my 99 just fine..

[Mk42gunner]

1. No.
2. I have always had better luck fireforming with a moderate load with a projectile than with the various cornmeal/ filler methods.
3. I would anneal as the last step prior to priming.
4. No.

However, I also agree with Duckkiller in that I would at least try running the first case through the .250 Savage die before going to a lot of trouble.

As to the difference in shoulder length, is this theoretical i.e. from book stats, or is it from the custom chamber in your rifle? In either case, form the brass to your rifle's chamber not to some printed theoretical dimension.

Another note, I would try to devise a way to obliterate the 22 on the headstamp.

Robert

[Texas by God]

Using good case lube, I’d neck it up to .243 first, then run it into the complete .250 Savage FL die.
I’d also seat a bullet in an unprimed case to check chamber fit- fed from the Mauser magazine of course.
Those two cartridges are on my all time favorites list.


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[Texas by God]

I loaded some .250 Savage brass today and I found one case that was a 22-250 necked up.
The neck is a tiny bit short but that’s no big deal.
It’s the one on the left; .250 Savage on the right.


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[markalarson]

Made my 250 Savage using standard Mil. Brass. Over 200 in one setting. It was a stuff job.
Wilson gauge perfect, however as soon as you open (M die) the mouth you discover the wall thickness problem. Has to be turned down,

[Texas by God]

I went ahead and tried it with just using the C-H .250 sizing die. With well lubed inside case necks, they formed easily with a slow push on the press handle. Now I have some cast bullet cases that say 22-250 on the headstamp ( but won’t chamber in any 22-250 rifle.)
I hope this helps!


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[Mk42gunner]

Made my 250 Savage using standard Mil. Brass. Over 200 in one setting. It was a stuff job.
Wilson gauge perfect, however as soon as you open (M die) the mouth you discover the wall thickness problem. Has to be turned down,

People these days have no idea how lucky we are to have a plethora of correctly sized brass to load and shoot.

You sir have my respect for putting forth the effort to form brass. I made one .22-250 from .30-06 just to prove to myself that it could be done. All the instructions from back in the day said to use .30-06 as the parent case, I believe because it was readily available.

I did not have any real forming dies, I just used an assortment of reloading dies that I had on hand. Forming dies may have helped, and going all the way to a .22 caliber neck added difficulty.

My conclusion was that it would work, but it was a lot easier to buy the correct brass, or at least something closer in size. If I were to do it again; I would use .308 brass for anything shorter than the .308, saving the .30-06 brass for the longer cartridges.

Robert