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Thread: Homemade pp’ed mold

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Nowhere wonderfull

    Homemade pp’ed mold

    Thought I would save my self some grief and try and make a paper patch mold.
    First attempt
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Put a Lyman type removable pin on the back and used another to poke out the boolet.
    Dropped a couple of thou small so ended up using a file to bring the cores up to 0.301".
    Drops at 132 grn and was aiming for 130 so all good.

    I developed a scratch in the bore and decided I would make another.

    This time the D bit I made cut exactly the same dimension. A couple of thou tight.
    When I made the reamer I cut to 1/2 diameter. Then I had a burr that needed addressing on the off side and I put a slight flat or relief up to the cutting edge.
    I thought it would cut a thou or so bigger but it didn’t. And I probably didn’t leave enough of a tiny bit of shrinkage.

    Any hoo the next one is basically the same but with a knock out pin weight.
    Works better.
    The holes in the sprue plate are to close to the bore and the retaining screw for the screw plate.
    The Aluminium is soft as a babies bum and is even more softer than a lee mold.
    It what it is with what I had at the time.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I have cast about 300 cores with it now and have experimented with temperatures and fill methods.
    I have to be careful with it but it will do the job I think.

    Preliminary test with a quick ladder test of 3 powder weights and a single five shot groups yielded somewhere to play with.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    By the loading book they should be hooting along at @2200fps.
    It looks bad but I put a new shim in my handi rifle 30-30 and it kept springing opening when fired till it settled down.
    I hope that’s where the flyers came from.
    These were dry wrapped with cheap plain paper which gives me -.310" wrapped dry 0.309" wet.

    Early days yet.

    Thanks to country gent and 303 and others who have posted about moulds as I stole a few ideas off you’s.

    This is for my husky 30-30 with a 1:15" twist rifle that I don’t want to push too hard
    I’m looking forward to getting it to shoot and probably hone it out with dry patches.
    I have been loading with black and a smokeless kicker charge.
    At least it looks good and blows a big plume of while smoke out the end.
    Now just have to get it to group.


    Thanks All.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Nowhere wonderfull
    Ohh should I have made it bigger and use it as a slick core or do you think the knurling with the files be better at paper retention?
    I could always make a new d bit and get some decent stock if I can find it.


  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Nowhere wonderfull
    Left me phone at home but some more 2207 loads yielded 2" group for 5 at 50 yrds with the 30-30 and a ladder test of slower 2208 at about an 1" or so a near start pressures.
    So I have a base to work and general park figure to play with.
    The 2208 full house loads must have bumped up a little cos the barrel got real hot real quick after 5x unlubed ones.

    The husky which I made this bullet for I could only get a 4" group splattering at 50 yrds.
    The patches came off O.K. Today but my cores were a tad smaller.
    Time will tell what will work.

    All in all not a complete waste of time as I thought it might turn out like.


  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Northwest Ohio
    Feel free to contact me anytime or use what I post. Knowledge is the only thing you can give away and keep at the same time

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    May 2005
    Castlegar, B.C., Canada
    The first PP mould I made was a .30 cal and similar to the old Ideal cylindrical mould:

    I used an "N" reamer which is 0.302" so the cast core comes out at 0.301" and is perfect for patching to suit standard .30 cal.

    What my moulds look like:

    Very similar to yours.

    I usually bore or ream through and then put a bottom plate on to retain the nose form which is on a rod with a weight so when inverted it is the boolit ejector. This works very well.

    I usually bore or ream then cast or turn a lead lapping slug then lap the cavity with valve lapping compound, then make the nose form as a snug sliding fit in the cavity. I have gotten excellent results with this style of mould.

    As for size, .301" works well for my .308 when patched to groove diameter but did not work well in my .303 Lee Enfield with 0.303" bore. To get decent accuracy there I had to knurl the smooth boolits up to 0.303"+ so a little over bore diameter then they worked. I made a knurler like a Corbin knurler on steroids (and much cruder... but it works):

    As I understand it the general view is that for smokeless powder the cast boolit should be bore size to about 0.002" over bore size and patched to groove size. In my limited experience that does work. The undersize bullets in the .303 didn't work well. Once knurled to a little over bore size and patched to groove diameter things went much better.

    You may have to experiement a bit with the cast boolit size and patch thickness to suit your gun. You may also need to make a case neck expander so that the patched boolits just slide into the case neck then taper crimp. If fit in case neck is too tight the patch may wrinkle or shift as the boolit is seated. Also do not crimp unless using a taper crimp die. A standard roll crimp will cut the patch.

    I hope that helps.


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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check