Snyders JerkyRotoMetals2WidenersLee Precision
Reloading EverythingMidSouth Shooters SupplyInline FabricationRepackbox
Titan Reloading Load Data
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 21 to 40 of 45

Thread: Burnt motor on Magma Bullet Master?

  1. #21
    Moderator Emeritus


    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Land of 10,000 Lakes
    Posts
    16,014
    The "speed" potentiometer has a white cable, follow that to the motor controller. The controller may not look like the one I posted a link to, that is just one style, probably the most popular style.
    Anyway, it's either in the middle bottom box, or somewhere else.
    I am unfamiliar with the Magma Bullet Master.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Norway
    Posts
    521
    Quote Originally Posted by JonB_in_Glencoe View Post
    The "speed" potentiometer has a white cable, follow that to the motor controller. The controller may not look like the one I posted a link to, that is just one style, probably the most popular style.
    Anyway, it's either in the middle bottom box, or somewhere else.
    I am unfamiliar with the Magma Bullet Master.
    Thanks!

    Sent fra min Pixel 8 via Tapatalk

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Norway
    Posts
    521
    Found the control box for the motor. Must be this right? Any measurements I can take with a multimeter to chech if it's fried?

    Sent fra min Pixel 8 via Tapatalk

  4. #24
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    10,635
    Nope, no measurements, brushless DC gear motor. Output transistors may be fried. I'd check the user group for recommendations.
    Delete my comments. single phase motor, PWM controlled. Thought it was multi-phased.
    Last edited by popper; 06-22-2024 at 11:46 AM.
    Whatever!

  5. #25
    Moderator Emeritus


    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Land of 10,000 Lakes
    Posts
    16,014
    Quote Originally Posted by hunter74 View Post
    Found the control box for the motor. Must be this right? Any measurements I can take with a multimeter to chech if it's fried?
    Quote Originally Posted by hunter74 View Post
    No, I didn't wait a whole day but 2 hours. That didn't work, the fused tripped again and it made a rattling sound. I could try to plug it in tomorrow and see
    Sent fra min Pixel 8 via Tapatalk
    I don't think you'd hear a rattling sound if the controller was fried. But, if you understand electricity, you can disconnect the motor wires from the controller at terminal A1 and A2. Then attempt to power it up. You should have 0 to 90 volts DC at those A1 and A2 terminals, varying with the "speed" knob position. You may need to have the multi-meter set to AC, because the 90 volts DC is actually a pulsating DC and without the motor connected to smooth that out, it may not read DC volts, but may read as AC volts.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Norway
    Posts
    521
    Between a1 and a2 it measures 103 Vac no matter what speed it is on

    Sent fra min Pixel 8 via Tapatalk

  7. #27
    Moderator Emeritus


    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Land of 10,000 Lakes
    Posts
    16,014
    OK, that's the pulse height...I guess that doesn't change, but what does change is the width of the pulse on the high side, as the speed dial increases. So anyway, if the controller was fried, that would have been zero. Do you get any reading of DC volts with the dial at MAX speed ?
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Norway
    Posts
    521
    Quote Originally Posted by JonB_in_Glencoe View Post
    OK, that's the pulse height...I guess that doesn't change, but what does change is the width of the pulse on the high side, as the speed dial increases. So anyway, if the controller was fried, that would have been zero. Do you get any reading of DC volts with the dial at MAX speed ?
    It measures 150Vdc. Is that right? I get the same reading no matter what the speed controller is set at

    Sent fra min Pixel 8 via Tapatalk

  9. #29
    Moderator Emeritus


    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Land of 10,000 Lakes
    Posts
    16,014
    I would think the value would change, but maybe there is something I am over looking? I'm not sure what else to tell you, except, I don't know if that is right?
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  10. #30
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    332
    There appear to be a direct part number cross on EBay for $1000+

    There is also this but Im not sure if its correct Id want to see the whole motor tag and do a little checking if it will fit:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/27641001558...mis&media=COPY

  11. #31
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    332
    Here is one with the Mirarik Part Number. Has some kind of shaft adapter on the end.

    Again, no experience with these sellers. You just don’t have many options when trying to buy one of these.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/36413315197...mis&media=COPY

  12. #32
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    332
    Actually that Dayton Motor is available from Zoro new for under $500. That may be better since its new. Only problem is Zoro doesnt export and Grainger only sells to businesses.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    2,122
    Always worth checking surplus center for motors!!

  14. #34
    Boolit Grand Master



    M-Tecs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    9,710
    Quote Originally Posted by j4570 View Post
    Actually that Dayton Motor is available from Zoro new for under $500. That may be better since it’s new. Only problem is Zoro doesn’t export and Grainger only sells to businesses.
    They changed that at least ten years ago however they have two tier pricing, and the differences can be significant.

    https://www.toolsadvisor.org/can-any...0at%20Grainger.
    2nd Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."

    "Before you argue with someone, ask yourself, is that person even mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of different perspectives? Because if not, theres absolutely no point."
    Amber Veal

    "The Highest form of ignorance is when your reject something you don't know anything about".
    - Wayne Dyer

  15. #35
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    332
    Thanks for clarification on Grainger. I hadn’t tried in a while. Zero is owned by Grainger and usually cheaper. And your stuff ships from Grainger.

    To the original poster, let us know how it works out.

  16. #36
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Norway
    Posts
    521
    I'll let you know how it goes.

    I'm waiting on Magma in Australia at the moment, to check things out. I cannot get anything here in Norway since it's too much of a speciallized motor...

    Fleabay has some motors and Dayton motors seems to be cheaper than the Minarik motor that's burnt. If I can use the Dayton motor it's a company in the Netherlands who sells refurbished electrical motors and they have Daton in stock, but not the Minarek motors. They could not tell me for sure if the Dayton 4z383A could be used instead.

    https://www.vitechparts.com/

    Sent fra min Pixel 8 via Tapatalk
    Last edited by hunter74; 06-28-2024 at 02:15 PM.

  17. #37
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Norway
    Posts
    521
    Maybe a person at Grainger could tell me if I can use another brand if I send them a Pic of the motor tag? From the web site they look like a serious company

    Sent fra min Pixel 8 via Tapatalk

  18. #38
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Norway
    Posts
    521
    So..... Got an answer from the tech department of Grainger. They were fast and the help was great.

    They said my motor was replaceable by Dayton 4z383A so I guess I'll have to order one of those so I get my Bullet Master up and running again.

    Thank you for all the help in this thread. I'll update the thread when I get the new motor installed.

    Sent fra min Pixel 8 via Tapatalk

  19. #39
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    South Prairie, WA 98385
    Posts
    325
    Greetings,

    Good news.

    Better news, I looked up the price and noticed it is Made In USA.

    Cheers,

    Dave

  20. #40
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Norway
    Posts
    521
    Thread update with happy ending.

    Got my Dayton 4z383A motor yesterday and got it installed this morning. To get it in place and connected was pretty straight forward.

    Casted with it 4 hours today and the motor is running flawless. It took me so time to get the machine dialed in again and align the pouring and the sprue knocker right, but after som fiddling with it, the machine is running great again. I currently cast 45s so they are forgiving regarding fillout but to get the sprue knocker aligned took some work. With numerous turns in and out adjusting the length of the "drive shaft rod" it knocks most of the sprues off. I hope to get this perfect. Picking sprues out of the bullet bin is tedious work.

    Thanks for all your help in this thread! Luckily only the motor took damage. I'm thinking of installing an additional safty. It should be doable to add a fuse/circuit breaker to the motor right? Anyone know what I need to get that to work.? I'm thinking a simple fuse box added to the electrical cord so when it breaks everything on the machine shuts down.

    Thanks



    Sent fra min Pixel 8 via Tapatalk
    Last edited by hunter74; 07-10-2024 at 10:26 AM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check