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Thread: Refinishing stock help.

  1. #21
    Boolit Master

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    Found a container/tub I left a bit of boiled linseed oil in. There was less than an 1/8" in the bottom, but it was still tacky after 3+ years. The outer film seemed dry at first, but emptying it changed my opinion of it. I had used it to coat iron gas pipe to slow rusting, not for wood.
    Spell check doesn't work in Chrome, so if something is spelled wrong, it's just a typo that I missed.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by ulav8r View Post
    Found a container/tub I left a bit of boiled linseed oil in. There was less than an 1/8" in the bottom, but it was still tacky after 3+ years. The outer film seemed dry at first, but emptying it changed my opinion of it. I had used it to coat iron gas pipe to slow rusting, not for wood.
    Linseed and tung oils need oxygen to polymerize and harden so a closed bottle should stay mostly liquid for years. All oil paints are based on linseed and AFAIK the paintings won't smudge if you touch it.

    A proper oil finish will not bleed if placed in the sun and they have been used for hundreds of years. I do have some stocks that were drenched in cosmoline and they will seep some oil if placed in the hot sun but that is not the same as an oil finish. Since I doubt the OP needs a totally weather impervious finish on his Krag the finish should be more about aesthetics and IMO should be the same as the original finish. But it is his rifle and he can paint the stock pink and finish it with glitter with the most modern totally waterproof epoxy finish for all I care. Just stating my preference to replicate the original finish..

  3. #23
    Boolit Master

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    Have thought about this a little more so will give my current opinion. If a military stock is to be refinished with the intent of making it look original, then boiled linseed oil is the proper finish to use. If the gun is not original, then any other finish sold as a stock finish is superior.

    Linseed oil was used by arsenals because it was cheap and easy and the stocks were expected to have a short life due to loss or damage during combat.
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  4. #24
    Boolit Master Jim22's Avatar
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    Turnbull Custom Guns uses spar urethane, not polyurethane, to finish their stocks. I have used it on furniture and love it. It is rated for outdoor protection. Polyurethane and Boiled linseed oil are not. On my furniture projects we never get a ring from a coffee cup and I have furniture I finished with urethane 45 years ago. Look for Minwax Helmsman.

    Look here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnBR1uHWhFw

    Jim

  5. #25
    Boolit Master


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    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Krag Rifle 1.jpg 
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    Here's a pic of my Krag at the range. I decided to go with the boiled linseed oil finish. I wanted to keep the stock looking era correct. I used stripper to remove the previous coats of finish that were on the stock. The previous color, and what I removed was like a dark bakers chocolate. After applying the stripper, the old coats just floated right off. I repeated this process 3 times. I let the stock dry for a couple days. I then went after the dents in the stock with a wet rag and iron. I let the stock dry over night, then repeated to take the deeper dent out. There are some light blemishes left, where some of the dents were
    taken out. I let the stock dry 4-5 days, and sanded. I really like the lighter color of the stock. This Krag will not see the hunting woods, or be introduced to any foul or inclimate weather. She's going to be well respected and used with "tlc".
    Again, thank you all for your input.
    Regards
    Last edited by littlejack; 07-08-2024 at 01:41 AM.
    If a 41 won't stop it, I wouldn't bet my life on a 44.

  6. #26
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    That looks just right.
    And that bag of cartridges is the cherry on top!


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  7. #27
    Boolit Master


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    Lol
    The bag actually has three smaller bags inside. Each bag has 10 rounds each with different powder and/or different powder weight of the same powder. The cartridges in each bag have identifying notes inside. Not very classy, but saves space. My mom and dad were from Oklahoma. I think they would have approved of my flexable see through ammo transportation recepticles. Yes?
    If a 41 won't stop it, I wouldn't bet my life on a 44.

  8. #28
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    Absolutely they would!


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  9. #29
    Boolit Master


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    If a 41 won't stop it, I wouldn't bet my life on a 44.

  10. #30
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I started a thread specifically to ask about matching the finish on my Ruger #3 fore end that I intend to reshape to the factory buttstock. I have a fairly late #3 and the wood is either very light walnut, or more likely birch or other light colored hardwood. There is virtually no grain visible. Respondents to that thread insist that a match will be impossible and urge me to strip both pieces completely and refinish them together.
    Question #1: The butt stock is in pristine shape, so how do I strip it while having minimal wood loss there?
    Question #2 what finish do you recommend to come as close as possible to factory original appearance?

    TIA ~ Froggie
    "It aint easy being green!"

  11. #31
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Froggie,
    Answer #1 Try Citristrip. It worked for me when I did a Rossi stock. I would take the buttplate off before using any stripper.

    #2 I have no idea.

    Robert

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check