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Thread: Work bench build

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,593
    My last work bench was a big project.
    The top is 2 x 4s on edge doweled together with 8 3/4" dowels 2 x6s in to form the pockets for the legs. bench top is 30" x 8' x 3 1/2" thick except where the 2 x 8s are.
    The legs are 3 2 x 6s doweled together with a slot left for the cross support to go through. The top center boards bottom edge is cut at a 10* angle. This slot is roughly 4 1/2" wide. A wedge was made with the matching 10* angle on top side.
    The legs are also notched for the cross braces front to back.

    Legs were inserted into their pockets and 1 dowel set thru the top. then the long leg braces installed the legs squared and the braces glued then the wedges drove in tight when dry they were glued and doweled. The front to back leg braces were inserted in their pockets and glued and doweled.

    The tops dowels were set below center so the top can be planed down several times to clean it up as needed.
    This bench is heavy it dosnt wiggle shake or move. there are no nails screws or bolts. other than the bolts that hold the vises on. its solid and stable.
    The bottom leg braces and shelf are at a hieght I can use my die cart to move it when needed.

    I really recommend some 2x4s or other on edge even using a solid door. A simple square of 2 x 4s on edge with one down the center or in a X pattern really stiffen the top and make a good mounting point for the legs. Use 6 x 6s or 3 2x6s laminated and doweled together. leg braces front to back and length wise to stiffen support the legs. A cople cross bars in this and some thin plywood makes a shelf and the flat plywood really stiffens the base up.
    When building a bench use plenty of glue in the joints and lock the joints together in a solid pattern.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2021
    Posts
    602
    I always want a vice on the end. If it is in the middle you are always going to have to go over it when moving from either side. This goes for regular work benches or loading benches. On my loading bench I have a small vice mounted on the right end that I use to hold my Forster Case trimmer the majority of the time. The trimmer is mounted on a 2x4. If I need to use the vice for something else I can quickly remove the trimmer. This makes the rest of the bench accessible without interruption.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Tavernier, FL Fredericktown, PA
    Posts
    502
    Mount a vise in the center over a leg with a 12" square 1/4" steel plate under your vise with a 2" bench overhang. I used 3/8" carriage bolts to secure the 1/4" bolster plate to the bench top. Strong like bull, smart like tractor!

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
    JSnover's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sicklerville NJ
    Posts
    4,383
    If it has to be on the bench the best place is a corner, especially if it has a swivel base.
    Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    565
    Consider mounting it so the fixed jaw is even with or proud of the edge of the bench. That way you can clamp long items vertically. Can come in handy.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Emory,TX
    Posts
    953
    Thanks for all the ideas

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check