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Thread: Panic in the casting/reloading room

  1. #41
    Boolit Master
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    GONRA sez - LOOKS LIKE - "TAPERED pipe threads are driving ya'll nuts...."

  2. #42
    Boolit Grand Master

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    What should work is to get a new plug so you have the best threads possible. Coat the new plug with 3-4 coats of wax or other release agent J-B weld, plasti steel, bisonite, or other epoxy with a steel base. mix according to instructions. Put a light coat in the threads in the hole. then a coat on the threaded plug screw together and let cure. The goal is to get a full coat on the threads with out to much being pushed inside. If theres room a small boss around the hole could be made with clay giving more threads to hold. Keep in mind doing it this way will result in a zero clearance thread fit, They will be tight all the way. Especially with J-B weld or bisonite as they both slightly expand when hardening.

    I recently fixed a water pump housing with J-B weld where an ear had broken off. cleaned the joint good and glued it giving a light coat inside over the joint. By cleaned good I wire brushed it then precision green solvent a couple times then mild heat to burn out any moisture or oils.Used a couple hose clamps to hold the lip in alignment and location. Let cure over night. next day removed clamp cleanded up over runs and assembled could tighten up the broken ear as tight as the other 3 but it holds and no leaks at 60 psi.

    J-B weld is good and holds where you dont want the heat od brazing or soldering.

    Being cast iron you could braze up the hole re drill and tap, but you would have to disassemble the whole base really clean and then preferably pre heat the base to keep from cracking.

  3. #43
    Boolit Master elmacgyver0's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GONRA View Post
    GONRA sez - LOOKS LIKE - "TAPERED pipe threads are driving ya'll nuts...."
    I do not have one of these or any experience with them, but why in the world would they have pipe threads?

  4. #44
    Boolit Grand Master

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    27 threads per inch is a pipe thread pitch also a British and bicycle standard.

  5. #45
    Boolit Master
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    Hokey smokes...Send it to me...I will pay shipping back to you...Fixed... No Biggie...

  6. #46
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by racepres View Post
    Find the nearest Independent Harley Mechanic...Preferably Grey Bearded...He can definitely Fix That!!!
    If I was Closer...a No Brainer
    “Independent Harley Mechanic” and “Grey Bearded” is redundant in your description, made more so if you throw in “Tatooed”.
    Froggie
    "It aint easy being green!"

  7. #47
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill M View Post
    I like your "heater" 45DUDE !
    I have a 6 cavity H&G 50 bnwc mold bought at the same time as the Star. Some times in cold weather a Christmas tree bulb works for heat.<stays on until it burns out.>

  8. #48
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rockindaddy View Post
    The brass plug at the base of the Star/Magma luber-sizer is a 26 TPI x .560" dia cleanout plug. When you remove a plug like that you must rotate the plug counter clockwise until you feel a "click" or hear it. That position is the lead of the thread. Then rotate the plug clockwise and the plug will engage the thread. This technique works most of the time. The plug seems to be an odd ball. My suggestion would be to inspect the plug and the aluminum base and see if the threads are damaged. If they are the easiest fix is a steel plug with a slight taper and a chased 26 thread per inch pitch. This steel plug if carefully screwed into the threads in the base should straighten up the cross thread and allow you to start the brass plug into the base. I could make up a 26 TPI tap for you.
    Well, gang, this is exactly what happened.
    After a phone conversation, Rockindaddy had me ship my Star sizer to him, and he did his magic.
    Not sure of the technical terms of what he did but basically he drilled out the hole, threaded it, the MADE a plug to fit.
    Funny thing about our gun community - when we were talking on the phone, and he said send it to me, when he gave me his name, I recognized it immediately.
    Those of us in the NFA community recognize his name instantly. He made MP40's on registered tubes. Lots of them! Many years ago, those registered tubes crossed my path at a dealer's. What a small world it is, indeed!
    I can't say thank you enough to him.
    I did a bullet casting seminar at my local range clubhouse and it worked perfectly.
    This is what makes us all connected - the love of casting reloading and shooting.
    Thanks ROCKINDADDY!
    Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check