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Thread: First Cast Disaster

  1. #61
    Boolit Buddy
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    I prefer an old school analog thermometer. The digital version seems more likely to break prematurely in my opinion.

  2. #62
    Boolit Bub vrod1023's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mnewcomb59 View Post
    Hey buddy you got that mold pretty messed up with lead splatter. One time I nearly ruined a mold (I thought at the time) when I fumbled a cold 2 cavity mold and dropped it in the lead pot. It came out looking about like yours.

    The first thing is DON'T USE A BRASS BRUSH! It will scratch your aluminum. If you scratch or dent the edges of a bullet cavity your bullets will stick horribly and you will have to beat the mold to make the bullets fall out.

    You need to get that mold smoking hot. How do you know if it is smoking? COVER it in synthetic 2 stroke oil, maybe dunk it, then float it on top of the lead until you see smoke on the whole mold including the sprue plate. Once it is smoking hot, get some gloves and a cotton cloth and wipe it really hard. Push down hard as you wipe and the oil steam and warmth will let the lead slide off. Where there is lead in your air vent channels you will need to use a toothpick to scratch and scrape it out.

    It looks like you have lead stuck on the bottom of your sprue plate. You need to keep the bottom clean because the build up of lead will scratch the top of your aluminum mold. Once it is clean you can remove it from the mold then lap it on a sharpening stone or a piece of sandpaper on glass. It is probably not perfectly flat and smooth on the bottom and that is why lead is sticking.

    I would also advise to not smoke the mold. Smoking only seems to add new problems such as wrinkles or bullets that cast undersized. A clean aluminum mold will get a hard layer of aluminum oxide on the surface of the cavities after a few heating and cooling cycles. Every 5000 bullets or so I will get some oil residue or other buildup that makes a mold not want to fill out and I need to polish the bullet cavities. I cast a bullet with a nut sitting on top of the cavity, then spin that bullet in the cavities with Ajax or Comet cleaner. I am telling you about this because you might need to polish your mold cavities if lead continues to build up on the mold when you cast bullets.
    Thank you for all the tips. You're right about the sprue plate - I didn't notice that until it was too late. Did you notice the pins on the left side of the mold? What are they for? Just wondering

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  3. #63
    Boolit Buddy
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    Four pages of posts on this thread and it’s been up around 26 hours. Just goes to show how much this group wants a new caster to be successful!

  4. #64
    Boolit Bub vrod1023's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by charlie b View Post
    The above is good advice. I never smoke my molds. Bullets might stick for a while but as the mold is used they start to fall out. I have used powdered graphite applied cold on a stubborn mold (Lee 2 cavity) and it seemed to work good.

    I run my pot hot. It has a golden brown layer on top (with some blue streaks just to make it pretty ). The alloy is Lyman #2. If you want to get rid of it the cat litter idea is good. I used sawdust. Both of these will smoke a lot so you would have to use an exhaust fan while casting.
    Great stuff! I will strip the mold and clean it again.

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  5. #65
    Boolit Bub vrod1023's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barry54 View Post
    Four pages of posts on this thread and it’s been up around 26 hours. Just goes to show how much this group wants a new caster to be successful!
    Yes sir! I am really grateful for all the responses. I have plenty of homework.

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  6. #66
    Boolit Bub vrod1023's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barry54 View Post
    I prefer an old school analog thermometer. The digital version seems more likely to break prematurely in my opinion.
    I hear you. I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place. I found an analog thermometer online but shipping to me would be $100. I can get the digital thermometer and some Frankford Arsenal flux for $75. Can't find this analog thermometers anywhere locally here in SA.

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  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by vrod1023 View Post
    I hear you. I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place. I found an analog thermometer online but shipping to me would be $100. I can get the digital thermometer and some Frankford Arsenal flux for $75. Can't find this analog thermometers anywhere locally here in SA.

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    No need for the flux. Stir your melt with a dry stick, and save your money.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  8. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by vrod1023 View Post
    Thanks Dusty. I live in a townhouse complex with a really nosey 80+year old neighbor so unfortunately can't do it outside or I will face the Spanish Inquisition hahaha.
    Casting indoors is not a good idea. If you must do that, a few things to consider.

    Bear in mind I am a "safety Nazi" and have been accused of being "over the top"...but here goes.

    If you live with people you love, you need to vent the fumes. That will require some kind of hood and vent system with a powered exhaust fan to the outdoors.

    Then, you need to be prepared for a major spill of hot lead. That includes some way to contain it, a large fire extinguisher in case stuff starts to burn, and a few pails of water. If your home has a basement, that is a good location as a spill on concrete has much less risk. Place your casting setup away from flammable surfaces.

    Some of the suggestions you received will generate a lot of smoke that is not pleasant to the sense of smell. If you move forward with them, wait until dark so your neighbors do not call the fire department. That will not be a pleasant experience. If you are renting, your landlord may deal with you harshly. If you have a fire, your insurance company may view melting lead in a home as gross negligence and not an accident. Many insurers will not cover gross negligence. Contacting your insurer is suggested.

    IMO you should not be casting bullets until you know you can go it safely and without financial risk. If I was in your situation, I would buy bullets, or find a friend or relative that has a place where I could cast outdoors.
    Don Verna


  9. #69
    Boolit Bub vrod1023's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dverna View Post
    Casting indoors is not a good idea. If you must do that, a few things to consider.

    Bear in mind I am a "safety Nazi" and have been accused of being "over the top"...but here goes.

    If you live with people you love, you need to vent the fumes. That will require some kind of hood and vent system with a powered exhaust fan to the outdoors.

    Then, you need to be prepared for a major spill of hot lead. That includes some way to contain it, a large fire extinguisher in case stuff starts to burn, and a few pails of water. If your home has a basement, that is a good location as a spill on concrete has much less risk. Place your casting setup away from flammable surfaces.

    Some of the suggestions you received will generate a lot of smoke that is not pleasant to the sense of smell. If you move forward with them, wait until dark so your neighbors do not call the fire department. That will not be a pleasant experience. If you are renting, your landlord may deal with you harshly. If you have a fire, your insurance company may view melting lead in a home as gross negligence and not an accident. Many insurers will not cover gross negligence. Contacting your insurer is suggested.

    IMO you should not be casting bullets until you know you can go it safely and without financial risk. If I was in your situation, I would buy bullets, or find a friend or relative that has a place where I could cast outdoors.
    No problem with the safety precautions. I will take as many of the suggestions forward as I can but I'm really enjoying the fact that I started and the assistance from the group has been a real motivator. I have the garage door and the back door open so there's a real draft that pulls through. I'm really being extra careful and I have my work bench setup where nothing can catch flame. It's a brick wall and a concrete floor.

    Your advice is appreciated.

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  10. #70
    Boolit Master
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    Looks like that mold started life as a Lee 6 cavity and has been extensively modified.

  11. #71
    Boolit Bub vrod1023's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich/WIS View Post
    Looks like that mold started life as a Lee 6 cavity and has been extensively modified.
    It's a locally made mold not Lee. Extensively modified? How?

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  12. #72
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    The mold blocks, sprue plate and cam opening system look like Lee. However the hardware to attach blocks to the handles, captive HP pin system, and hinge bolt and hold down bolt are not Lee but a product made in South Africa. I visited the web site to see if they have better information to explain or illustrate their product and it is pretty barren. Maybe if a few photos were taken in bright overcast it might show the details a little better.

  13. #73
    Boolit Bub vrod1023's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dusty Bannister View Post
    The mold blocks, sprue plate and cam opening system look like Lee. However the hardware to attach blocks to the handles, captive HP pin system, and hinge bolt and hold down bolt are not Lee but a product made in South Africa. I visited the web site to see if they have better information to explain or illustrate their product and it is pretty barren. Maybe if a few photos were taken in bright overcast it might show the details a little better.
    Thanks for that bit of information. Once I've cleaned it I will take more pics. Lee 2 cavity on the way.

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  14. #74
    Boolit Grand Master fredj338's Avatar
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    Wow, the mold looks in pretty bad shape, hopefully you can get it cleaned up. IMO, you dont need a therm with a Lee 20#, just turn it to 8 & heat everything up. Lubricating the mold alignment pins is important & making sure the mold is 100% closed beforf pouring will prevent smearing.
    EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
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  15. #75
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    You don't have to thank every person who responds to one of your posts. We understand.

  16. #76
    Boolit Master
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    All the thanks we need is to see some nice bullets being made!

  17. #77
    Boolit Buddy
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    Which Lee two cavity mold do you have on the way?

  18. #78
    Boolit Bub vrod1023's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barry54 View Post
    Which Lee two cavity mold do you have on the way?
    LEE Double Cavity TL356-124-2R Bullet Mold.

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  19. #79
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by vrod1023 View Post
    No problem with the safety precautions. I will take as many of the suggestions forward as I can but I'm really enjoying the fact that I started and the assistance from the group has been a real motivator. I have the garage door and the back door open so there's a real draft that pulls through. I'm really being extra careful and I have my work bench setup where nothing can catch flame. It's a brick wall and a concrete floor.

    Your advice is appreciated.

    Sent from my SM-A505F using Tapatalk
    Cultural differences are interesting. When you said you were "casting indoors", I assumed what indoors mean to me. A garage is a great place to cast...just not considered "indoors" by anyone in my circle of friends...and that includes a lot of rural hillbillies.

    Good luck!!!
    Don Verna


  20. #80
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by vrod1023 View Post
    LEE Double Cavity TL356-124-2R Bullet Mold.
    If I was starting over I would have gotten that one first. Its designed for tumble lubing which is by far the easiest way to lube.
    Currently casting and loading: .32 S&W Long, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .40 S&W, .45 ACP, 10mm, 44 Special 44 Magnum. .223, 7.62x39, 7.62 x 54R, .30-06, 45-70, .32, .36, .44. .45. .50. .54. .58 and .60 round ball and various minies. And .375 heel crimped conical for those .36 conversions . KB6MRP on Discord

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check