Target Stands Uprights

[Rich22]

I am looking for looking for ideas for target stands. I have several of the normal steel stands that take 1x2 (3/4x1.5) uprights in them. I shoot at a range where the stand uprights need to be very tall (usually at least 6 feet) to give an angle at the berm. None of my cars can manage longer then 3 foot uprights with ease so I am looking for a better method than bolts to put the uprights together rapidly so I can have multiple 2 foot sections. Anyone done this or have plans for it?

Thank you

[challenger_i]

I use a stand made of PVC pipe. At the midpoint cross rail, I have a removable pin to tie the upper portion of the stand to facilitate breaking the target stand down.

[SSGOldfart]

I use a stand made of PVC pipe. At the midpoint cross rail, I have a removable pin to tie the upper portion of the stand to facilitate breaking the target stand down.

yep good advice

[TNsailorman]

I made several target stands many years ago using PVC 1 inch pipe. The top, sides and bottom all slip out of the PVC fittings to break down for carry. The bottom are also made with PVC pipe that have holes drilled thru them on the ends for large nail to secure them into the ground. Works for me, james

[G W Wade]

Try Goggling "Pinterest" and look for PVC target stand. Lots of different ideas and it will branch out into others GW

[country gent]

What comes to mind is this. Make an adapter from 1 x4 for your stands. A piece 4-6" long with a hole saw cut into one end on center to fit a PVC coupler and epoxy them in. now PVC pipe 3 1/2 foot long with another coupler. or to stiffen it a tee and cross bar of PVC

Bill of materials
2 ea 1x2 x 4-6"
2 ea couplers for the size PVC pipe.
4 ea 3 1/2' PVC pipe
2 ea PVC tees
2 ea PVC pipe the length to match your stands width.

This will be a H style frame. If you have access to a table saw a saw cut on center of the 2 top pipes will allow cardboard backers to slide in.

[Hondolane]

I use 2x4's that I can take down and throw in the back of the truck. Can take many hits before breaking and I just replace the broken parts. A little heavy, but the wind isn't an issue and I can put large cardboard on it for multiple targets.

[JerryHoliday]

What comes to mind is this. Make an adapter from 1 x4 for your stands. A piece 4-6" long with a hole saw cut into one end on center to fit a PVC coupler and epoxy them in. now PVC pipe 3 1/2 foot long with another coupler. or to stiffen it a tee and cross bar of PVC
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Bill of materials
2 ea 1x2 x 4-6"
2 ea couplers for the size PVC pipe.
4 ea 3 1/2' PVC pipe
2 ea PVC tees
2 ea PVC pipe the length to match your stands width.

This will be a H style frame. If you have access to a table saw a saw cut on center of the 2 top pipes will allow cardboard backers to slide in.

Thanks for the advice.

[Sasquatch-1]

If you already have the metal stands that take a 1x2 at the range, take two short pieces of 1x2 to set into the stand have two pieces of 1.5 inch PCV with bolts through the middle than two more pieces of 1x2 to bring you up to height. You now have uprights that will fit in your car.

[Electrod47]

Go to Amazon for 10 pack IKAYAS 10 Pack Blank Yard Signs with Stakes, Large Size 19 x 14 Inches White Garden Yard Signs Yard Sale Signs Corrugated Plastic Signs for Party...And use stick on splash targets and your good to go......light as a feather and throw them away after several uses.

[georgerkahn]

I am looking for looking for ideas for target stands. I have several of the normal steel stands that take 1x2 (3/4x1.5) uprights in them. I shoot at a range where the stand uprights need to be very tall (usually at least 6 feet) to give an angle at the berm. None of my cars can manage longer then 3 foot uprights with ease so I am looking for a better method than bolts to put the uprights together rapidly so I can have multiple 2 foot sections. Anyone done this or have plans for it?

Thank you

At the college where I was employed the custodial staff went from metal framed, to hold canvas trash bags, to plastic ones with built-in wheels. One of the now-trash units ended up in the back of my truck, and I simply cut and placed a piece of white building board -- the lightweight stuff -- inside the frame.
The unit is about 35" wide and just as deep -- which is great as, I can easily wheel it wherever I wish, and as long as the bottom down-wind does not have the upright frame -- it's pretty wind proof. About three feet tall, if you jerry-rigged similar, you could easily fasten a couple pieces of plastic pipe uprights on the outside frame, have a few pieces of wood furring strip to drop in these and staple your targets to -- six feet high would not be an impossibility, with this maybe being an advantage as you could lower furring strips both while wheeling to destination as well as for checking/placing targets, having, say, just a nail or small dowel going through a drilled hole to keep at raised height. I never measured how "thick" the unit is when folded -- transport in my truck -- but I'd readily wager it to be less than ten to twelve inches.
geo

[Kenstone]

OK, because you have a base/stand that uses 1x2s for up-rights here's a design you could use:
This pic is a front view as seen by the shooter, It's 2 over-lapping1x2s, that could be 3ft+ long, bolted together:

Right side view"

To fold, remove the bottom screw and pivot the lower 1x2 upward, behind the upper 1x2:

Install the screw in the upper hole to hold the 1x2s folded:


Here's a steel version, but could be made out of wood too, utilizing one bolt and a hinge.

Bolt removed, folded:

jmo,
.

[uscra112]

PVC shatters with even a grazing hit. Ask me how I know.

[Polymath]

I made a set out of 1x4 and 2x4's. I had a box frame on the ground and 2x4 legs with a hinge bolt in the middle so the whole thing could be collapsed. I had a second set of bolts that locked the legs open (like a pair of scissors) and a knee brace that had a lock bolt to keep the whole thing upright. It collapsed down to about 14" high.
Sorry, no picture of it as I repurposed it many years ago.

[gunther]

Used to shoot at a public range. Setting up a target frame took time and removing it took a lot more. A plastic pop bottle or a can with 3 or 4 gravel dropped in gave enough mass to toss it 15 feet in front of the line. By the time you bounce it to 35 or 40 yards, you've had a pretty good practice session. And could leave the remains if you had to. Not good manners unless the other folks there had only gotten through half a case of ammo and weren't about to stop.

[elmacgyver0]

Used to shoot at a public range. Setting up a target frame took time and removing it took a lot more. A plastic pop bottle or a can with 3 or 4 gravel dropped in gave enough mass to toss it 15 feet in front of the line. By the time you bounce it to 35 or 40 yards, you've had a pretty good practice session. And could leave the remains if you had to. Not good manners unless the other folks there had only gotten through half a case of ammo and weren't about to stop.

There's always that.

[MOshooter]

I have a few Realtor steel frame signs, then put wood in place of the steel sign.
They work pretty good for a portable upright stand, been using them for 25+ years now.

[uscra112]

O.P. needed something six feet tall but collapsible to 3 feet to fit in his trunk. An expensive solution would be a camera tripod with a broomstick stuck on top somehow. Broomstick topped with a crossbar to hang targets onto. Wooden members sacrificial in case of them being hit.

[Sasquatch-1]

Another option is to cut your 1x2's to a good length and use double ended wood screws to put them together at the range.

[TNsailorman]

Pictures of the PVC target frames I talked about earlier. james
.
.

You can make any size stand you need. I have one very large stand to use for patterning shotguns. These are very cheap and very easy to make. james