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Thread: Lyman 266469 Gas Check problem

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy

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    Lyman 266469 Gas Check problem

    Hey guys. I have an old Krag carbine Im spending a small fortune on. I just wanna shoot the dang thing. I bought the mold. Then a Pat Marlins 6.5 gas check maker. The damn gas checks are too big to press onto the bullets. I mean, several thousandths too big. What the heck did I do wrong? How bad will leading be without using the checks?

  2. #2
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    Check out Sage's Outdoors and get some 6.5mm Gator gas checks. I like the Sage's gas checks better than the Hornady ones. I used to have a 266469 mold, but it wasn't shooting well in my 6.5x55 rifle (not a Swedish Mauser) The Lyman 266673 worked much better in my gun, so I gave the 266469 away. While I was using the 266469 I had no problems with gas checks. With the Pat marlins check maker, are you using the recommended .014" thick aluminum flashing? If you need to shoot the bullets without gas checks keep your velocity at 1400 fps or below to prevent barrel leading.

  3. #3
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    I'll second that recommendation for Sage's Outdoors gas checks. They make first class products!

  4. #4
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    I shoot the 266469, lubed with WLL's 2500+ and Sage's gas checks in a 6.5CM and quite well.

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    what thickness material are you using?
    I use .008" for 22 cal.
    when I was making 30 cal, I used .010"
    when I made 35 cal, I used .014"
    .
    also, have you measured your GC shank on the boolit?
    Subtract that diameter of your sizer by the diameter of the GC shank, then divide that number by 2, that will give you the approximate thickness you need, or maybe .001" thicker.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.
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    Quote Originally Posted by 405grain View Post
    Check out Sage's Outdoors and get some 6.5mm Gator gas checks. I like the Sage's gas checks better than the Hornady ones. I used to have a 266469 mold, but it wasn't shooting well in my 6.5x55 rifle (not a Swedish Mauser) The Lyman 266673 worked much better in my gun, so I gave the 266469 away. While I was using the 266469 I had no problems with gas checks. With the Pat marlins check maker, are you using the recommended .014" thick aluminum flashing? If you need to shoot the bullets without gas checks keep your velocity at 1400 fps or below to prevent barrel leading.
    "recommended .014" thick aluminum flashing?"

    Are you sure about that ?
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  7. #7
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    JonB: Good catch! I double checked and went to Pat marlins website. Here's a quote from his operating instructions pdf: "the standard base line metal designed to work with your dies is .010 copper." The "recommended" .014" aluminum flashing is what folks have been using for 30 caliber checks. The OP may be using material that's too thick.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by cricco View Post
    Hey guys. I have an old Krag carbine Im spending a small fortune on. I just wanna shoot the dang thing. I bought the mold. Then a Pat Marlins 6.5 gas check maker. The damn gas checks are too big to press onto the bullets. I mean, several thousandths too big. What the heck did I do wrong? How bad will leading be without using the checks?
    Obviously a mismatch in sizes. FWIW I have a Krag 6.5x55 , I had two . I shoot #266469 thru it and all my Swedih stuff too. I'm comptemplating a gas check maker , but currently use Hornady GC when I can get them . I may try Sage's next , I don't know . I seat my Hornady GC onto the bases using a homemade Lee style push thru sizer , if anything they are tight

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonB_in_Glencoe View Post
    what thickness material are you using?
    I use .008" for 22 cal.
    when I was making 30 cal, I used .010"
    when I made 35 cal, I used .014"
    .
    also, have you measured your GC shank on the boolit?
    Subtract that diameter of your sizer by the diameter of the GC shank, then divide that number by 2, that will give you the approximate thickness you need, or maybe .001" thicker.
    This helped. Went with a different aluminum. Still loose, but the lubrisizer sticks them on tight.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    I expect 10 thous to be the right thickness of material for a 6.5 check, if your mold is in spec.

    If the fit is a little bit loose but it goes through a sizer and swages on, that's great. Much better than being slightly too tight and needing extra measures to get fully seated, first!

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    Quote Originally Posted by gloob View Post
    I expect 10 thous to be the right thickness of material for a 6.5 check, if your mold is in spec.

    If the fit is a little bit loose but it goes through a sizer and swages on, that's great. Much better than being slightly too tight and needing extra measures to get fully seated, first!
    When I use the Star to put GC's on(and lube), A little loose is "Easier" than even the proper snap fit. I will say, the proper snap fit is best when using a Lyman lubesizer, IMHO
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check