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Thread: My homemade Golden powder!

  1. #281
    Boolit Master
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    Looks like more of a residue instead of corrosion. Would be interesting to see whether you can soak or boil the cases and remove it.

  2. #282
    Boolit Buddy
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    Looking at the image, it looks like it is peeling, which indicates that it is just residue coming off and not corrosion. Try removing some when dry and removing others by washing.

  3. #283
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    Quote Originally Posted by HamGunner View Post
    My Gray 61% Potassium Nitrate,31% Ascorbic Acid, 5% Manganese Dioxide, and 3% charcoal was faster yet with less velocity spread. It was clean burning and also gave just Good accuracy.
    Never heard of this one - seems to be the best. My observations so far:

    My "Golden" powder was slate grey. Other than appearance, it performed same as yours.
    My "Crimson" powder looks almost indistinguishable from used coffee grounds. Have not used it yet but figure it will also perform the same as yours.

    I have some plastic test tubes I bought on Amazon because they cost about 10% what official charge tubes cost. They hold about 5 grams of powder. I have determined a a rough equivalency formula of

    40gr BP = 50gr CP = 80 gr GP when used in a single shot 45 cal caplock pistol, but in mine with a 10" barrel the GP took up about a third of it. However I got better groups than the people on either side of me at the range today, both of which were cops. And my gun does not have sights on it.

    Crimson powder is fast to make, takes little equipment and is no mess compared to Black. There is no dust. In fact when grading my Crimson powder out that I made to day NOTHING went through the 60 mesh screen.

    #10 screen 5%
    #20 screen 20%
    #40 screen 5%
    #60 screen 70% and its granules, not dust. Pours fine.

    I WILL try that grey powder.
    Currently casting and loading: .32 S&W Long, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .40 S&W, .45 ACP, 10mm, 44 Special 44 Magnum. .223, 7.62x39, 7.62 x 54R, .30-06, 45-70
    .32, .36, .44. .45. .50. .54. .58 and .60 round ball and various minies

    And .375 heel crimped conical for those .36 conversions KB6MRP on Discord

  4. #284
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    Quote Originally Posted by MUSTANG View Post
    There was some question over the life of this thread as to the potential of the Golden Powder to attack the brass when used in Centerfire Ammunition; or ..... I test fired my last batch about two weeks ago (Post #233 and #237) and because I was off on other Winter Reloading efforts I let the cases sit for the last two weeks - unclaimed and untouched.

    The cases I use for "Initial Experimenting" tend to be mixtures of case head stamps. I tend to sort head stamps into lots of 20 so they can be aggregated, boxed up, and used for "Same Case" load development or reloaded and boxed for long tern storage. The odd-ball cases get relegated to the rough experimenting role where consistency to foster accuracy is not the immediate goal.

    This morning I retrieved them and looked at the inside of the necks:

    Attachment 324083
    click on picture to enlarge

    The case necks and insides are coated with what I initially thought was corrosion of the brass; but is actually a layer of crud from the Powder Ignition. This extends to the internal case walls - not just the necks. If one enlarges the picture and looks closely; a the lifting and curling of the crud coating edges can be seen on a couple of the inside necks in the picture.

    Not sure what if anything this means (Other than cleaning of the Brass cases is required inside and out); but thought it might be of interest to some.
    As with Black Powder, you want to immerse the casings in water shortly after firing. Leave a brass case sit after firing BP in it and it will do same or worse. We are dealing with corrosive acids and salts.

  5. #285
    Boolit Master Hellgate's Avatar
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    If you let those fired cases sit long enough with some humidity or moisture you will start seeing the blue/green verdigris(?) formin that indicates corrosion. Just toss them in some water when you get home, rinse and repeat a couple times till the water runs clean and not slippery. Dry & reuse. If you use nickeled brass the corrosion is pretty minimal and cleanup is even easier.
    Hellgate in Orygun
    With 16+revolvers, I've been called the Imelda Marcos of cap&ball.
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  6. #286
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2TM101 View Post
    I WILL try that grey powder.
    Note: I milled, pucked, and screened (corned) this powder rather than cooking on the stove. Would be interesting to see if it works as well by cooking.
    Last edited by HamGunner; Yesterday at 11:42 PM.
    73 de n0ubx, Rick
    NRA Benefactor Life Member/VFW Life Member

  7. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by HamGunner View Post
    Note: I milled, pucked, and screened (corned) this powder rather than cooking on the stove. Would be interesting to see if it works as well by cooking.
    I have never seen this "Grey" formula before and as I am unfamiliar with what manganese Dioxide does when heated I would probably make it the same way. I was ball milling and pressing Black Powder years before all these Fireworks formulas just spontaneously appeared.

    I made a bunch of powder consisting of mostly GP fines with some BP fines mixed in and pucked that, I put pictures here. I since figured out you can take your GP fines and dissolve them in more water just like a new mix. But after THAT, I learned just today that Crimson Powder makes no dust OR fines. Nothing went through a 60 mesh screen, not even a little.

    P.S. N6RVT but I'm only on VHF and that rarely these days. And yes, that's a vanity call as I happen to be an RVT
    Currently casting and loading: .32 S&W Long, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .40 S&W, .45 ACP, 10mm, 44 Special 44 Magnum. .223, 7.62x39, 7.62 x 54R, .30-06, 45-70
    .32, .36, .44. .45. .50. .54. .58 and .60 round ball and various minies

    And .375 heel crimped conical for those .36 conversions KB6MRP on Discord

  8. #288
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sandro_ventania View Post
    Have you ever heard of white powder? It's stronger than the GP, it's just not as clean... I've seen it used in 9mm. The recipe is also simple. 65% potassium nitrate (perchlorate is even better) and 35% starch. Put the nitrate to melt in boiling water, just like GP, after the nitrate is completely dissolved, remove from the heat and add the starch, mixing vigorously. then spread it on plastic and let it dry. Once dry, just grind and use. SP is stronger because of its formula, C6H10O6 having 2 more hydrogen molecules (fuel) than ascorbic acid C6H8O6. If your starch isn't very fine, running it through a ball mill should help.
    Back when all of this was starting I did get a bottle of Starch to try this, just have not done it yet. I'll probably make what I got and use it in top loaded duplex rounds to try and offset it not burning cleanly.

    Jake recently discovered that when loading a duplex round, putting the black powder (or whatever we are using) in first and the smokeless on top works significantly better than putting the powder in the other way around. We aren't sure why just yet, but it does. It also burns way cleaner than straight BP.

    In other news, I went to the range yesterday and fired about two dozen Golden Powder shots from my .45 caplock. At the end of the process it looked like I had fired *one* black powder shot. All the cleaning was around the nipple as I am using my own caps.
    Currently casting and loading: .32 S&W Long, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .40 S&W, .45 ACP, 10mm, 44 Special 44 Magnum. .223, 7.62x39, 7.62 x 54R, .30-06, 45-70
    .32, .36, .44. .45. .50. .54. .58 and .60 round ball and various minies

    And .375 heel crimped conical for those .36 conversions KB6MRP on Discord

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check