having problems with loading 9mm

[Abenaki]

I am having problems loading cast boolets in my 9mms.

One gun is a M&P Shield and the other is a Glock 19 with a KKM Barrel.

I am using a 125 grain truncoated boolet made by Accurate Molds. It is mold number 35-125C
I love Accurate Molds and Tom is a great guy.

I am using wheel wheights to cast with. I have sized them to .357 and .356 diameter.

My problem is that I get a "ring" of lead around chamber mouth? The part where the brass head spaces on.
This ring of lead after about 9 shots with stop the gun from going fully into battery.
It appears to be scraping lead.

I have tried seating the boolet deeper until the "edge" of the boolet.....The flat part before it tapers is coverd by the brass of the case.
Nothing works. This is the only cast boolet that I have tried in 9mm. I load cast boolet in 45, 40, and 10mm with no problems.

Thanks
Abenaki

[dale2242]

Try sizing to .358.
By sizing bigger, the leading in my 9MM really improved.

[pworley1]

Can you post a picture of a loaded round?

[Abenaki]

I'm not getting leading in the barrel.

It seems to be shaving lead on the end of the chamber where the case mouth touches.......where the case headspaces.

I can take a small screw driver and pull out a ring of lead.

Maybe I need the "throat" reamed?

This is the only cast boolet that I have in 9mm. Maybe I need to try other boolet shapes.
But, I don't really think that the shape of the boolet is the issue.

Thanks
Abenki

[Abenaki]

No
Not at this time.

Thanks
Abenaki

[Dusty Bannister]

Perhaps you could measure some of the cases you are using and see if perhaps they are a bit too short. And the second step might be that the bullets are loaded a bit too long, so the cartridge head spaces on the bullet and not the case mouth. In that case, the bullet begins to expand when fired, but before it enters the barrel so lead is scraped off by the step at the beginning of the rifling.

Dismount the barrel, insert a sized case into the chamber and see if it rests with the rim lower than the barrel hood. It might just need sorting by head stamp for the longer cases. If you are using the Factory Crimp die, that might be set too tight as well, but one problem at a time. If you were loading jacketed bullets at .355" and then switched to cast without adjusting the crimp, you might be causing the problem with excessive crimp.

[porthos]

i had a similar issue with a wilson 45. using commercial cast bullets with a "hard" lube. removed the lube and tumble lubed with homemade bens liquid lube. problem went away. i have read other issues with commercial bullets that use a hard lube instead of a softer lube. but, i don't know what lube you are using??

[dtknowles]

Same problem with two different guns? Have you measured the bullet diameter, and have you measured the groove diameter? I would measure the mouth of some fired cases. If it was just one gun I would suspect an oversized chamber or a tight bore. I really don't see how this could be a bullet problem. Might be the brass is short or has really thin walls. Kind of a puzzler.
Tim

[Texas by God]

Maybe flare them a bit more before seating the bullet.


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[Abenaki]

I am not using a factory crimp die.

I am not loading the boolets to far out. Infact I have been seating the boolets deeper and deeper to see if that will help.

I am using Carnuba Red for lube.

I went and read the sticky on loading 9mm. And may have found the problem.

I found a post by BuyoBuyo

"Nice write up. I just got my 9mm problems solved actually. Mine was a powder issue.

I was trying to use AA#7 like I do with my jacketed loads. I was getting the velocity that I wanted and no barrel leading (even with 8 bhn boolits). My problem was a build up of lead at the end of the chamber that caused the following rounds to not chamber fully and the gun wouldn't go into battery. I switched to Unique and the build up went away, but I had barrel leading which requires that I water drop or heat treat my boolits with my current alloy."

Unique is the powder that I have been using. I will play with the load and try different powders.

Thanks guys
Abenaki

[rsrocket1]

Have you slugged your barrels? If they slug at 0.355", there is no reason to size your bullets any bigger than that. The pressures should bump the bullets to obturate in the barrel to prevent leading. I always put a small flare on the case mouth, seat the bullet and ensure no lead gets shaved, then use the Lee taper crimp die to just barely close the case mouth past vertical.

[mehavey]

I'm running three M&Ps, three SIGs, a G17 and a G19 using Tom's 35-147B.
Case is pre-flared enough to easily seat by hand a full nickel's thickness, then fully seated just deep enough to barely 'plunk' with case mouth simultaneously "de"flared to 0.379" in one stroke.

I'm also running a Georgia Arms cast 355/147GR RN-FP flared/seated/de-flared (just plunkable) the same way.

Both bullets are Lyman #2/BN-15, Eastwood powder coated, and sized .357 before seating.

No issues on any of the guns with any of the bullets/various powders/loads. (I'll go look at the different powders and update later)
( TiteGroup/Longshot/PwerPstl/SportPstl/HP38 )

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Bottom Line: Can you tell us...
- How much you flare ?
- How you determined seating depth ?
- What the hardness is ('wheel weights' can be anything these days)
- What powder? /charge weight?
- What OAL ?

I have a feeling that bullets are too soft/jump to lands too long.

For starters try:
- Flare so you can pre-seat at least a penny/nickel's worth by hand
- Seat as Long at you can to just clear 'plunk' reqm'ts
- "De-flare" case mouth only to .379-ish

[Outpost75]

I had this problem in my S&W 940 revolver due to a sharp wire edge on the stop surfaces of the chamfers where the case is headspaced.

I used a Brownell's 3/8" ball chamfer cutter to break the sharp corners of all six chambers and problem solved.

[wv109323]

I have the same problem. My problem is/was with a CZ 75 and 2 Canik pistols. I blame the European CIL chamber. There is no leade or throat in the front of the chamber.
One of the Caniks would not chamber 3 brands of factory jacketed ammo.
I tried powder coating but that did not help.
I had the CZ barrel throated which solved the problem.
The Canik barrels can not be easily throated due to their extreme hardness.
I have a .355 sizer ordered to try.
I am limited to jacketed bullets for now in the Canik. I tried several powders but it did not help.

[mnewcomb59]

I had the same problem on a Shield. I took a 3/8 dome headed brass screw and chucked it in a drill and sanded it down to about .365. Then I carefully loaded it up with some 320 grit lapping compound and got it in there without smearing lapping compound on the chamber then made a few rotations. Clean it up, look for a slight chamfer and if you don't see it do it again. Don't take too much metal off because you have to headspace off the ledge.

[6622729]

I am shooting the Lee truncated bullet in a KKM barreled Glock 19. It's not my favorite bullet for this combination but it can work. I water drop Lyman #2 alloy castings and size to .357. My lube is Recluse 45/45/10 but these days I powdercoat. I don't have the problem you are describing. I'm using HP-38 powder and loading to a light target velocity but I doubt that has any bearing. Are you sure the ring of lead isn't from shaving the boolits when loading? I have had this problem. The case mouths definitely require some flaring. I like any of the round nose 125gr boolits better for this application. I powercoat these and they run as slick and clean as Jwords.

[243winxb]

Seat die is removing the case flare/bell to soon, while seating. Open the inside diameter of the seat die, without modifing the taper crimp.

OR seat & taper crimp in 2 operations.

[hermans]

Seat die is removing the case flare/bell to soon, while seating. Open the inside diameter of the seat die, without modifing the taper crimp.

OR seat & taper crimp in 2 operations.

I tend to fully agree with this....for seating and crimping use 2 different dies/operations, and make sure not to over crimp, I leave mine at 0.380", basically no crimp at all, just removing the belling prior to seating.

[Thumbcocker]

I had the same issue with the 9mm cylinder in my Blackhawk convertible. Sent it to Doug and he fixed it right up for a reasonable fee.

[justindad]

Pull a loaded bullet out of the brass. Check for lead shavings in the lube groove.