Reximex Meta Premium 25cal

[Racing]

Ok guys.
To get that out of the way right off.. for a Turkish made "mid hang tag" gun this is next level.

I´m spoiled enough to have fooled around with the more upscale FX stuff for years and actually just bought me YET another Impact in the form n shape of the M3.
A formidable gun, and i believe Mr Axelsson pulled a REAL wise stunt when setting the M3 up such that owners can toss n compare tunes across the world as he made them all "numeric".
However.
I´m real happy to report that the rest of the world isn´t exactly at a standstill either, which is why THIS particular post...

So let me introduce you to Reximex new flagship, the Meta Premium.



In a sense this is nothing short of a paradigm shift, cause this thing is put together for REAL. Mine here in what they call FDE finish.. and sporting a cheaper aluminium bottle (CF is available as an option, just not imported up here).

In an effort to get the negatives out of the way and be done with it there´s all in all TWO points i feel Reximex need to adress with this gun. First up the mags are the same for MOST Reximex made PCP´s, which for the most part is fine n dandy.
However.
When you put the Meta onto the market sporting said mags.. they simply come up short cause 90cc´s of plenum and a 700mm long barrel says it all.
Now. For the 25cal maybe not the end of the world as them mags WILL fit 41 grainers, which to many will suffice i bet, while the 22cal version.. just forget about it.
I´ve previous come to both modify the Reximex offerings acrylic mag lids - for them to take longer pills.. and this works. By cutting the inside of said lid down approx 1.5mm heavier pills can no doubt be fitted and doing so i´ve come to be able to use 40 grain slugs on my heavily modified Reximex Zone.
Truth be told though the remedy here would be so simple Reximex should really be ashamed of themselves as the mags for the Kral guns are ABSOLUTE dead ringers and all they need to do is call them up and ask.. same owners remember.
The Kral mags are a healthy 3mm longer, which would make for a WORLD of difference for a gun like the Meta Premium. As Reximex in turn, in contrast to ALL other Turkish mans, actually LISTEN to what us end users put forth i adviced them to market the exact same main block as an aftermarket deal, just with the rear "wall" of the mag cutout set 3mm further back to take the already existing Kral mags.
Yes.
This WOULD certainly turn a page.. no doubt about it. This reasoning though holds true for ALL Reximex guns really, whereas owners want to soup them up. Or maybe just cater to a given situation.
In short? They are at a point where this simply needs to be solved, and it´s dead easy. 20min using Solidworks and you´re there.

Second point is that the gun is to heavy, and especially so for a chassis gun. True.. a 700mm barrel comes at a weight, no argument, but the thing is an EASY almost a kilo heavier than my M3...
So. Having had this piece around for a little while by now i´m given serious thought to putting various parts on the mill. Down to actually cutting spiral flutes into the barrels outside.

This being said?
FOR a gun it is!



Seeing the following pictures what we need to keep in mind is that it carries approx HALF the hang tag of the M3 of mine. In short, seeing the level of build.. yeah well.



Days of "Turkish fit" are dead gone. Just LOOK at the thing! Plz take my word for that it works the same no matter if inside or outside. They´ve REALLY pulled the string on the bow this time out!

The Meta though, as you take it out of the box, still is rather.. "held back" running 4.5mm ports throughout. For a gun on a 90cc plenum and 700mm of barrel length.. H*LL NO!
The intent here is WAY beyond that, and as the story unfolds well..

So i set out to make this thing work as intended, first step being to increase transfer ports throughout to 6.3mm. This might sound large but plz keep in mind that this is a regulated gun.
...and what we lack in pressure we need to make up for in volume - to get where we´re going.



That lovely barrel.. will shoot. This is using 33.95 JSB pellets at 30m before even cleaning the barrel out. Yes. Accuracy has since improved beyond this BUT.. here´s the real caveat cause see..



Same barrel, same 30 meters just... using H&N 34grain hollow point slugs running around the 1000 mark. Yep. Thing doesn´t really care if pellets or slugs, it´ll shoot both equally well.
While at it, of course the barrel got the "go around" on the lathe too. Of course it did as the least was to make sure there were no burrs and what not left after increasing transfer port diameter.



Yep. It even looks "heavy" where it sits. Need to adress that cause this much is for sure, this one´ll stay with papa for a while. Uhu. Sports a shroud with a diffusor setup to take a 1/2"-20 UNF moderator.
But..



It´s like they were having a big d*ck contest. So that there is the stock diffusor for the shroud
Now.. that´s one MASSIVE diffusor! To absolutely no avail what so ever.. what WERE they thinking!?! Cause make no mistake, albeit being a bullpup this is NOT a short rifle with ANY moderator installed.
What´s more, a diffusor can´t very well do more than redirect air down the shroud right? Well. I´m here to tell you that just as when putting EFFECTIVE moderators together it´s ALL about the through hole. "Design" all you want, if that "choke" of a min diameter for the caliber through hole isn´t there.. it´ll amount to rather specific not one YOTA.
So.



Yeah. Got a little sideways with the mill there cutting the "window" ports out. Suffice it to say that this thing is based on the current FX ideas for a diffusor, out of the simple reason that it WORKS, and sports a through hole on 6.8mm.
What this does is "shave" off air in such a manner the shroud becomes WAY more active, net result being a way more silent unit. All wins as far as i´m concerned.
To be noted here is that i since a while use filler in my shrouds too, making them even more effective at what they do.
This way shorter diffusor (approx 100m (or 4 inches) worth) of course brought that the shroud had to be cut back accordingly.

[Racing]

Altho it might sound a little "we abandoned that way back" reg pressure is set by picking the entire tube that sports the plenum, valve aso apart. The various parts of the tube though are exactly that. Parts, why you bolt them together for a package, which is the end result.
This kind of annoyed me a tad at first, being spoiled with it usually being real easy to alter reg pressure from the outside (just look at the Reximex Throne, so it´s not like it´d be a novelty to Reximex). It however got me thinking as well.. and truth be told it´s often that you fool around with reg pressures a bit to find a tune but.. that done it more often than not is left where it´s set and done deal.
Hm.
Have to admit to this being WAY less of a nuisance than i first thought.

The actual valve in turn.. aluminium and a PEEK poppet. Rather sturdy design. "Under the seat" i opened up to cater to the now 6.3mm diameter transfers.. which i got to revisit. Keep that in mind tho n plz read on..
As you can see there´s a small sorts of screw at the top there. Underneath that resides a small o-ring, which seals vs the stem on the poppet. As it´s a screw the interference fit vs the poppet stem is in other words adjustable.
Neat.



Indeed a chassis gun. Modular if you will, and as noted the fit.. right up there. Finish, ditto. Truth of the matter is that with this gun the Turks just stepped up the game, it´s that simple.



Here tho.. Hm. All bullpups suffer from that the trigger blade needs to reach the trigger group in some way or manner. Out of that respect Reximex got this one right, the setup is very usable.
However. Mine lacked any and all sear adjustment screw, lending.. one was simply needed. The thing is that the manual shows that there IS an adjustment screw there on the sear at the rear of the block. Not on mine though, why i wonder if this is by a lapse by someone? No matter, i annealed the sear, drilled into it, ran a tap down the hole and installed a small allen stoppie.
Done. Then came to fool around a tad with the springs for the trigger group (it´s a weighed unit alright) and finally i took the stock stop e-clip for the 1st stage spring (which is the one on the rod) out and replaced that with a small aluminium bung by me that carries an M3 screw for infinite adjustment of 1st stage springback.
There´s a feature here tho. Not visable in the picture, but the one side of the block at the trigger group carries a lid of sorts. As you remove that lid you´ll come to see the various parts of the trigger group AND a camlock sorts of deal that connects the hammer n intermediate plunger to the loading probe.
What Reximex has done with this camlock is make sure the hammer can move freely forwards BUT.. lock any and all movement rearwards for the hammer.
In short, this camlock kills any and all hammer bounce right there. In its track. REAL neat feature and sorts of elegant too (in contrast to for instance the spring loaded piece of steel bar on certain Hatsan rifles). And it works. Really really well.



I´ve tried quite a few different moderator designs by now, on this Meta alone like 5 different ones. Happy to report i´m getting there...



For instance. In an effort to evaluate the physics inherent.. made a MASSIVE one on a full 50mm diameter (2") and 220mm length. Have made a couple of 40´s too.. and.. well, let me get back to you on that further down...



Uhu. Was bound to happen i guess. Yep. Went 2mm poppet stem on this one too..
Yes. It DOES make for that much of a difference, it really does. As long as you use hardened steel for the spindle you´re in essence good and.. all wins in my book.
Be aware that moving to a 2mm spindle does NOT solely bring more air n thus power. You could JUST as well do this to run softer hammer spring and thus lower cocking effort.
My case tho.. yeah well i´m the idiot right.. LOL

[Racing]

Tell ya what though. Since i opened the transfers up to 6.3mm i´ve had this REALLY annoying leak i couldn´t get to terms with. Spent LOADS of time trying to figure out why the o-rings on the valve housing leaked.
As it turns out.. i was wrong. What had happend was that as i opened the holes up to 6.3mm i just baaaaaaarely "broke into water" on the counterbore for that small little spring loaded ball that is a detent for the mag.
As i found it, HEUREKA! Solution was simple. The ball n spring is held in place by an adjustable M5 stoppie sunk deep down into that hole while from thereon up the hole is 5mm flat in diameter right.
So reinstalled the ball, spring and stop screw with light Loctite.. and had threaded that hole M6 for the rest part of it, so.. a short allen M6 stoppie, again with a few drops of light Loctite.
Presto.
No more leaks.

That done..



I loaded her up with the same 34´s used previous and...
New territory. Reg pressure set to just a tad below 170bar. I run a dual spring setup for the hammer spring, cranked down on that ever so slightly.. and loaded her up with the few 41 grain ZAN hollowpoints i have left.
FX brick there to tell the story and judge my surprise... 41 grains, 170bar... 1060fps.
That´s just a breath away from 140J. Or a tad over 100fpe if you wish.

So yeah. Here next to its new shooting buddy, the FX Impact M3 and where we´re at the Meta actually outperforms the Impact - of current. I dialed the Meta back a tad, main reason being i´ve got no need for that amount of power AND.. the by me new 35mm diameter moderator... it about bottoms out at that level.
As you can see the "mega can" now on the Impact.



So yeah. This 35mm jobbie works GREAT for guns up to a tad over 100J. There somewhere tho it starts to get "saturated", leaving the shot to sound to much of "a regular gun". Still suppressed of course but.. to much "zing" to it.
So upcoming here is a 40mm diameter of the same basic can. Right here, right now. I´ve lost COUNT of the times ppl voice up cause their moderator is "just sh*te"... when in reality it is a matter of that ANY can really needs to be installed TIGHT and corrected for linearity on either a lathe or a couple of V blocks.
Before we can get ppl in general to understand this.. the store bought stuff will NEVER be as effective bringing noise levels down as the hand fitted piece. It´s just THAT simple.
The entire "just pick a moderator for a caliber one or two steps larger and you´ll be fine" BS needs to stop.
Seeing that in turn it´s a pity the industry came to settle on that 1/2"-20 UNF thread instead of the for the app way better solution of 1/2"-28 UNEF.

But. That´s for another story another time.

This Meta.. although it took a little work is now performing you won´t believe, and looking good doing it. With a trigger to DIE for, accurate and then some.. it hits HARD for a 25cal PCP when asked to..
Yeah.
Something happend here. It´s that simple