MidSouth Shooters SupplyReloading EverythingSnyders JerkyLee Precision
WidenersTitan ReloadingLoad DataInline Fabrication
RotoMetals2 Repackbox
Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 73

Thread: Anyone here experienced in silver soldering?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master Hannibal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    East of KCMO
    Posts
    2,213

    Anyone here experienced in silver soldering?

    Doing some practice since this is new to me. I have no trouble with brazing steel or soldering copper, even soldering electrical components but I'm apparently doing something wrong now.

    I'm wondering if there's an issue with the solder itself. I'd appreciate any advice someone with hands - on experience can provide.

    Thanks for looking.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Farmerville,Louisiana
    Posts
    1,358
    What are you trying to solder?
    "The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government..... When the people fear their government there is tyranny, when the government fears the people, there is liberty." Thomas Jefferson

  3. #3
    Boolit Master Recycled bullet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2022
    Location
    Suburbs south of dc
    Posts
    737
    Clean the the connecting joint you intend to solder with sandpaper then apply flux to the parts and put some flux on the solder wire heat up the base pieces with the torch and the metal will flow into the joint. You can use water to freeze the joint. I use an old brick as an insulator. Was making little robot men out of cut up coat hangers, 6.5 Creedmoor brass, pieces of copper wire and 10 mm bolts.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master Hannibal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    East of KCMO
    Posts
    2,213
    Quote Originally Posted by Hossfly View Post
    What are you trying to solder?
    I have a couple of projects in the works. In both cases I'm attempting to solder fairly large pieces of steel.
    I've cleaned everything well, scuffed the surfaces with scotchbrite and cleaned again. Applied Flux. Plenty of heat but the solder continues to ball up and roll off as if the surfaces are dirty.

    Pretty frustrating.

    Solder is about 10 years old but has been stored in a clean, dry cabinet in a temperature controlled environment.

    First time I used it it worked beautifully. Second time not nearly as well but I thought perhaps I wasn't holding my mouth right or something. This time it won't flow at all.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Farmerville,Louisiana
    Posts
    1,358
    Mtrl has to be clean, you can use sandpaper for smooth surfaces but wire brush works to get into small areas to clean real good. And as said must flux well and watch for color change to apply either 45% or %55% silver. You can buy prefluxed solder also blue or orange color.
    "The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government..... When the people fear their government there is tyranny, when the government fears the people, there is liberty." Thomas Jefferson

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Farmerville,Louisiana
    Posts
    1,358
    What % silver is the solder?
    "The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government..... When the people fear their government there is tyranny, when the government fears the people, there is liberty." Thomas Jefferson

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,563
    You dont state the problem your having.
    electrical and copper pipe are soft soldering process at around 500* with a flux. Brazing and silver solder are hard soldering at higher temps 1500* and a stronger flux.
    Silver solder with black flux needs to get hot to melt and flow. I clean the parts then clean again and flux, lay a piece of solder in the flux and lay the top piece on depending on part I clamp with a third hand jig or clamp with a clamp. I then heat with oxy acetylene and watch for the part to settle and solder to flow. Then allow to cool on its own.

    the soft solder flux stays soft and can be wiped off the hard solder flux becomes hard and glass like when it cools.

    Like brazing or other heat in the direction you want the solder to flow it will follow the heat. Just like when soldering a copper pipe when its clean well fluxed and up to heat you touch the solder to the joint and its zip all around and to depth. When you get to temp with the silver solder the parts sits down and theres flow all around under the flux.

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master



    M-Tecs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    9,563
    What silver solder are you using and what's your heat source?
    2nd Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."

    "Before you argue with someone, ask yourself, is that person even mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of different perspectives? Because if not, there’s absolutely no point."
    – Amber Veal

    "The Highest form of ignorance is when your reject something you don't know anything about".
    - Wayne Dyer

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Farmerville,Louisiana
    Posts
    1,358
    Sounds like your solder is melting before the steel is getting hot.
    "The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government..... When the people fear their government there is tyranny, when the government fears the people, there is liberty." Thomas Jefferson

  10. #10
    Boolit Master Recycled bullet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2022
    Location
    Suburbs south of dc
    Posts
    737
    Yeah if the solder is not wetting to the base material then the base material is still cold.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master Hannibal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    East of KCMO
    Posts
    2,213
    Quote Originally Posted by Recycled bullet View Post
    Yeah if the solder is not wetting to the base material then the base material is still cold.
    It's glowing medium orange before applying solder. Balls up and rolls off. No flow at all.

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,563
    If the solder is balling up then your material is to cold. It takes a lot to get big pieces hot enough the mass pulls the heat way.

    I normally use 45% silver to attack carbide to cutter shanks. A 1/2" or 5/8 shank 3-4" long takes a lot of heat before the solder flows.

    On big jobs I have seen 2 guiys working the joint one preheating along the joint and the second following with the torch and doing the soldering.

    WIth the solder balling it sounds like improper flux or to cool

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,563
    Also avoid an oxidizing flame

  14. #14
    Boolit Master Hannibal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    East of KCMO
    Posts
    2,213
    Quote Originally Posted by M-Tecs View Post
    What silver solder are you using and what's your heat source?
    Prest-O-Lite torch. Large tip. BenzOmatic silver bearing acid core flux solder. Solder worked perfectly in the past but it's been 10 years since I bought it.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Farmerville,Louisiana
    Posts
    1,358
    If you’re using flux you may be burning it away before solder is melting. It’s a fine art to some soldering.
    "The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government..... When the people fear their government there is tyranny, when the government fears the people, there is liberty." Thomas Jefferson

  16. #16
    Boolit Master Hannibal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    East of KCMO
    Posts
    2,213
    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    Also avoid an oxidizing flame
    Tried that too.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master Hannibal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    East of KCMO
    Posts
    2,213
    Quote Originally Posted by Hossfly View Post
    If you’re using flux you may be burning it away before solder is melting. It’s a fine art to some soldering.
    Agreed but something has changed. I used this same roll of solder before and it never acted like this.

  18. #18
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,563
    Bring the material up to a dull red then touch the solder to the material just ahead of the torch flame right at the forward edge of the flame

  19. #19
    Boolit Master Hannibal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    East of KCMO
    Posts
    2,213
    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    Bring the material up to a dull red then touch the solder to the material just ahead of the torch flame right at the forward edge of the flame
    That's when it balls up and rolls off like butter on a hot skillet.

  20. #20
    Boolit Grand Master



    M-Tecs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    9,563
    Again, what silver solder are you using and what's your heat source? If it's an oxy acetylene flame you want neutral or slightly carburizing. An oxidizing flame will prevent proper wicking.
    2nd Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."

    "Before you argue with someone, ask yourself, is that person even mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of different perspectives? Because if not, there’s absolutely no point."
    – Amber Veal

    "The Highest form of ignorance is when your reject something you don't know anything about".
    - Wayne Dyer

Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check