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Thread: Marlin micro groove insights?

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Marlin micro groove insights?

    I own an 1894 Marlin .357/.38. Fun as heck lever gun. I’ve had mixed results shooting my cast in it. First thing I tried was a conventional lubed gas checked Lee 158 SWC cast with Lyman No2. sized to .359. Absolutely no leading and when I worked up to 15.6 grains, groups tightened right up. Shot two deer with it this year. I thought there is nothing to this. I have since tried to develop a plain base low velocity .38 plinking load with W-231. They shoot great for about 20 and go to crap. I have repeatedly leaded the snot out of the barrel. Done it enough times I have become pretty adept at scrubbing the lead out with a chore boy wrapped brush but have not accomplished much else. Does anyone have insight into shooting cast .38’s through a micro groove Marlin they are willing to share? Thanks in advance to any willing to take the time to reply.
    Willie

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master Nobade's Avatar
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    They have a very large and long throat. That gives the hot gas time to blast some lead off the boolit before it seals up the bore. Either a long body short nose design like the 175 Ranch Dog (that is made just for this rifle) or soft bullets and black powder will work. It probably won't feed them but wadcutters seated out to touch the rifling will also but then you have a single shot.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nobade View Post
    They have a very large and long throat. That gives the hot gas time to blast some lead off the boolit before it seals up the bore. Either a long body short nose design like the 175 Ranch Dog (that is made just for this rifle) or soft bullets and black powder will work. It probably won't feed them but wadcutters seated out to touch the rifling will also but then you have a single shot.
    Thank you for the reply sir. Where can I get my hands on a mold?

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    why not use the same boolit and just reduce the charge

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master Tatume's Avatar
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    My results with the Lee C309-170-F mold have been excellent. I've owned the gun since 1967 and have been shooting cast since 1985, and never had leading.

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master Nobade's Avatar
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    NOE is making the Ranch Dog designs now.

    https://noebulletmolds.com/site/prod...59-178-rf-ai5/

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    Boolit Grand Master Nobade's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tatume View Post
    My results with the Lee C309-170-F mold have been excellent. I've owned the gun since 1967 and have been shooting cast since 1985, and never had leading.
    A bit skinny for a 357 innit?

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master Tatume's Avatar
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    Mea culpa, I wasn't paying attention.

  9. #9
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    Willie:
    Go to marlinowners.com where you will find
    hundreds of pages of info about this very subject.

    My 1894 prefers (demands) the Lee 125 RFN, powder coated,
    sized 3595 in 357 brass with a moderate charge
    of Unique. Anything else is wasting primer & powder.

    Carry on...

  10. #10
    Boolit Master Maven's Avatar
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    Arrow

    Quote Originally Posted by Nobade View Post
    They have a very large and long throat. That gives the hot gas time to blast some lead off the boolit before it seals up the bore. Either a long body short nose design like the 175 Ranch Dog (that is made just for this rifle) or soft bullets and black powder will work. It probably won't feed them but wadcutters seated out to touch the rifling will also but then you have a single shot.
    Why further handicap yourself Willie T, by using shorter .38Spl. brass? Switch to .357mag. brass and much lower loads of something like Bullseye, say no more than 4 grains, with a plain base bullet. The Lee tumble lube SWC may be a place to start. Check out their website for the tumble lube mould.

  11. #11
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    GregLaROCHE's Avatar
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    Have you considered powder coating?

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    Quote Originally Posted by FredBuddy View Post
    Willie:
    Go to marlinowners.com where you will find
    hundreds of pages of info about this very subject.

    My 1894 prefers (demands) the Lee 125 RFN, powder coated,
    sized 3595 in 357 brass with a moderate charge
    of Unique. Anything else is wasting primer & powder.

    Carry on...
    Thank you sir. I already own that mold.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maven View Post
    Why further handicap yourself Willie T, by using shorter .38Spl. brass? Switch to .357mag. brass and much lower loads of something like Bullseye, say no more than 4 grains, with a plain base bullet. The Lee tumble lube SWC may be a place to start. Check out their website for the tumble lube mould.
    I have that in a six cavity. I load it in .38’s. I may try it in .357 cases.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by turtlezx View Post
    why not use the same boolit and just reduce the charge
    I hope to omit the gas check on a low velocity plinking load if I can work out the details.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by GregLaROCHE View Post
    Have you considered powder coating?
    No sir I have not. I will if I can not get there without it though. I know it works. I just don't enjoy doing it.

  16. #16
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    Thanks to all of you who were gracious enough with your time to respond!

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by FredBuddy View Post
    Willie:
    Go to marlinowners.com where you will find
    hundreds of pages of info about this very subject.

    My 1894 prefers (demands) the Lee 125 RFN, powder coated,
    sized 3595 in 357 brass with a moderate charge
    of Unique. Anything else is wasting primer & powder.

    Carry on...
    Wanted to express my gratitude to you sir for that website. Some good stuff shared there.
    Thank You.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    No experience with .38/.357 in Microgroove, but I have shot a lot of .44 mag in a Microgroove Marlin. Lyman 429244 with gas check, as-cast .432-.433 dia which is .002-.003 over SAAMI rifle groove spec., cast of harder alloy like old wheel weights or recovered cast bullets. LLA lube because I don't have a .431 or .432 sizer for the Lyman 45. The same principles should work with .357; hard gas checked bullet, over groove diameter.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check