NOE hp mold ?

[BigboreShooter]

Just received hollow point mold from NOE .First time using it, the bullet wouldn’t release from the hp pin! To the point I had to disassemble the pins to get the the bullet off. Any secrets or suggestions I should know about . This is my first NOE HP mold.

BigBoreShooter

[725]

not seeing the mold makes it difficult to say. just a couple of random comments for you; wash the mold with dish soap and a tooth brush; heat cycle it a couple times without casting with it; smoke the mold or use a mold release agent (rapine); and believe it or not, a tiny amount of 'KROIL" oil in the mold and cast with it. this, of course, if there are not obvious burrs, etc, from a new mold. once you get it running, NOE's are great molds.

[MarkP]

I use a small propane torch to melt off stuck bullets until the pins reach casting temperature. First few sessions were frustrating with the 360 - 180 WFN HP.

I have the NOE 360 180 gr WFN HP, NOE 310 228 gr (HP version of 247 gr for 300 AAC) both are drilled for temp probe. Take notes when casting and place next to mold box for next time.

[WRideout]

It's not an HP pin, but some of my molds don't release their boolits easily. Believe it or not, a very light wipe with silicone bulb grease from the auto parts store took care of it. They simply fall out. I use that exclusively for lubing sprue cutters, etc.

Wayne

[Wheelguns 1961]

Because of the design, NOE hp molds are hard to preheat. My first Noe hp mold gave me fits until I turned my hotplate into a mold oven. Now it is fine. You definitely need to play around with it until you find what works for you.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

It helps if the Pins are polished smooth, I had to polish my first NOE mold pins using my drill some steel wool and Fitz. The pins need to be hot...and maybe lubed with sprue plate lube...some people will smoke them. There are a ton of other hints in this thread.
Once you've cast with it several sessions, the pins will develop a patina and they won't need so much attention...but they still need to be run hot.

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...-NOE-Mold-help

[Minerat]

If the pins are a little rough I usually polish the points with a piece of 320 emery cloth. I also use a #2 pencil to color the tips of the pins to help release. I preheat the mold if I'm doing HPs so the first boolits out are frosted. Polishing does the most good.

[gwpercle]

After polishing the pins ...see post #7 ... spray or coat them with
Liquid Wrench Dry Lube L512 ...it comes in both a liquid , for applying with a Q-Tip and a wasteful spray ... but the stuff acts as a release agent that doesn't gum up or contaminate the cavities . After casting for a while you will not need a release agent , the cavities and pins develop a "seasoned" surface like a cast iron skillet will ... You just need to get it broken in ,
NOE's are sweet caster's once broken in .
Gary

[cowboy4evr]

I have one NOE HP mold , Keith 173 gr swc and yes , getting the pins hot enough is the hardest part . I too used my propane torch --- quickly . The best HP mold I have bought has come from MP Molds . They are a true work of art , top quality , no problem having to heat the pins separately and shipping is fast . I now have numerous of his molds .

[Mr Peabody]

I've used mold release from Midway on those pins to break it in, it helps

[20:1]

I've let the HP pins in NOE molds dangle freely in their brackets and heated them with a propane torch. HP pins need to be really hot (not red hot) to get both proper fillout and release. With Lyman molds I dip the pins in melted lead, then wipe any lead residue off before reinserting. I suppose you could use a Bic lighter or something to heat the pins as well.

[Sig556r]

Following, got a used NOE hp mold & looks like the hp pins are loose...by design maybe?

[Wheelguns 1961]

The hp pins should be loose, but not the brackets. Make sure to close the mold when tightening the brackets.