Surplus Corrosive Ammo Cleaning

[Martin Luber]

Would it matter less with stainless barrels?

[Dutchman]

Windex and GI bore cleaner. Either or.

Dutch

[Adam Helmer]

I began shooting military surplus corrosive ammo in 1958 and still do so today. The Old Army Manual prescribed hot, soapy water followed by dry patches and then an oil patch. I use the same for my muzzleloaders. Windex, etc., works because it is WATER based.

Adam

[Lead Puller]

I began shooting military surplus corrosive ammo in 1958 and still do so today. The Old Army Manual prescribed hot, soapy water followed by dry patches and then an oil patch. I use the same for my muzzleloaders. Windex, etc., works because it is WATER based.

Adam

After a day at the range, I'll remove the barreled actions from my muzzleloaders and submerge them in hot soapy water. Several passes with a tight fitting patch siphons the hot soapy water through the barrel. I've never had an issue with corrosion.

[JSnover]

On the battlefield with a rifles action gummed up with mud and dirt, peeing on the action to get the gun working again was used in the heat of battle.
They were not worried too much about a bit of rust and corrosion when keeping the weapon shooting meant life or death. No firsthand knowledge, only told me by an old WWII vet, rest his soul, I sure miss the old guy.

The other version I've heard was about soldiers using urine to refill the cooling system on water-cooled machine guns.

[Eddie1971]

I second the 5-to-1 water/Ballistol mix - AKA "moose milk". I take a 30 ounce spray bottle full of it to the range when I shoot corrosive stuff.

Last time I had the Garand out, I pumped it generously in to the chamber end of the still hot barrel, waited for the hissing splutters to subside, ran a bore-snake, then re-sprayed to soak for the drive home, whereupon it got a full cleaning and wipe-down with undiluted Ballistol.

Best way to think of Ballistol is that it's kind of like Break Free's 3-in-1 properties, but for guns using the old school nasty propellent options - it'll neutralize the corrosive crud, AND it gives you the moisture barrier and lubrication of oil. The various home-brew water/soap/ammonia options all work, but you need to put the oil barrier back afterwards. The green can is a really nice one-stop-shop.

Lately I have changed my cleaning routine and use Moose Milk/Ballistol for all my cleaning and I am a believer. This is for corrosive and non-corrosive ammo. What made me change was using a 10/22 and Hoppe's. I have been noticing that when trying to clean the carbon mess from the bolt, receiver and back end of the barrel that Hoppe's takes some of the carbon off, but it leaves behind a hardened layer in corners and crevices. One of my shoots I sprayed Ballistol over the parts mentioned and all the carbon wiped off easily leaving it clean. Seems like the Hoppes evaporates and leaves a rock hard deposit. Also this goes for my handguns when cleaning, it gets everything off. The other day I took my MAS-36 and used some old surplus French ammo that was corrosive. I used my moose milk mixture on the bore and I was astonished to see how clean the bore came out and how much came out of it. It's never looked so good. Going forward this is going to be my only product I use on my firearms.

[Loudenboomer]

I thought M1 thumb was bad but urinating in a rifle chamber congers up a whole new realm of unwanted possibilities.

[K43]

Water dissolves the salts. Soaps/detergents help free the salts from the steel and carry it out of the bore.
NOTHING "neutralizes" the salts. Ammonia simply acts as a mild detergent and it's concentration in window cleaners is so low as to have nil affect on copper.
Some will argue I am wrong, but they are. My info comes directly from chemists at NSWC Crane when I was a test conductor/technician working at NAWC AD Patuxent River.
Old GI bore cleaner worked because it was water based. Anything that does not contain water will carry salts out of the bore mechanically, but they aren't nuetralizing anything except your wallet.
I don't' need a flames suit because I am correct.

[Dantiff2]

Ballistol is all that is needed. I've run corrosive ammo through AK's with NO harm at all. Wash the weapon down in ballistol and lube as normal.

[K43]

Ballistol is all that is needed. I've run corrosive ammo through AK's with NO harm at all. Wash the weapon down in ballistol and lube as normal.

Ballistol doesn't neutralize diddly. It works best if mixed with water to make moose milk.

[derek45]

Moose Milk

Ballistol and water in a spray bottle.

It works really well

great for cap & ball revolvers also.

[Dantiff2]

I don't buy that for a second. I've sprayed down corroded battery terminals with it in my vehicles ( cleared them right up)and have never had a speck of rust after shooting corrosive ammo and always use it solely with no other products to clean up after shooting my black powder rifles.. It works great! So whatever it is made up of does the trick for me and my uses.

[Outpost75]

Castrol Brayco 300 Amber, Spec. Mil-L-PRF-32033A Type 1, Class 1, Lubricating oil, water displacing, general purpose. Boats US, West Marine, NAPA, or Skygeek..Use straight to wipe down for storage after hot water wash.

Or forms stable emulsion in water. Make your own spray cleaner mixing 1 pint Brayco 300, 1 oz. Dawn or Ivory dishwashing detergent. 1 gallon of water.l

[Eddie1971]

Moose milk seems to clean everything good, corrosive or non corrosive. Better than anything I have used.

[Outpost75]

Would it matter less with stainless barrels?

Stainless barrels are less prone to deep pitting if neglected, but still rust after corrosive primers.

[challenger_i]

Also, the barrel isn't the only item exposed to the corrosive salts. Something to consider.

[K43]

oh, never mind. I have to go find aliens from Roswell.
Challenger, I did the OOW/Jojoba oil routine. I need more OOW. Thanks!!!!!!

[atfsux]

Also, the barrel isn't the only item exposed to the corrosive salts. Something to consider.

Indeed. The last time I shot Yugoslavian surplus through my AK, I douched out the entire gas system and action. That crud gets everywhere.

[Outpost75]

Indeed. The last time I shot Yugoslavian surplus through my AK, I douched out the entire gas system and action. That crud gets everywhere.

Wipe bolt face and occasionally disassemble bolt, clean and lube.

[elmacgyver0]

Water dissolves the salts. Soaps/detergents help free the salts from the steel and carry it out of the bore.
NOTHING "neutralizes" the salts. Ammonia simply acts as a mild detergent and it's concentration in window cleaners is so low as to have nil affect on copper.
Some will argue I am wrong, but they are. My info comes directly from chemists at NSWC Crane when I was a test conductor/technician working at NAWC AD Patuxent River.
Old GI bore cleaner worked because it was water based. Anything that does not contain water will carry salts out of the bore mechanically, but they aren't nuetralizing anything except your wallet.
I don't' need a flames suit because I am correct.

This is just old plain common sense and doesn't require fancy chemists in my opinion, but it is nice to know the fancy chemists agree with my old-fashioned common sense.