WidenersRotoMetals2Reloading EverythingMidSouth Shooters Supply
Titan ReloadingLee PrecisionSnyders JerkyInline Fabrication
Load Data Repackbox
Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Peep Sight

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy Lostinidaho's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    241

    Peep Sight

    I like the Marbles Bulleye's sight. I would like to make the bar between the dovetail and bulleye longer.

    I was thinking to silver solder a piece of steel in the middle. That way I could keep the adjusting ramp.

    Good idea or a bad idea. Is the bar made from spring steel?

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Sight.jpg 
Views:	7 
Size:	15.7 KB 
ID:	321232

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    4,677
    Silver soldering should not effect the tempering if it is tempered spring steel.
    Just don't heat it up to red hot when playing with it.

  3. #3
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Seattle Area
    Posts
    99
    Use Brownells silver solder. It melts at less than 500 degrees. I use for soldering sight bases. With a small torch with soft flame. Think it is called Force44.

    I have many varieties of silver solder in the welding kit, my favoran Alstate product that is very strong but it takes a high temp for a successful joint.

    I will put up photos if you need.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    916
    That part should be high carbon steel. By the time you melt silver solder used for brazing, you are already at critical temperature that re-hardens steel. Cool it off with compressed air or quench after the joint flows to more fully re-harden. Or don't, because the joint will be the softest part, anyway.

    But either way, after grinding and sanding, hit with torch just until the steel flashes dark straw/blue to temper it. This can't hurt. Re-hardening will happen with or without quenching, and tempering will make the steel less prone to fracturing if the joint doesn't fail first.

    With big enough overlap on the joint, you could use electrical/soft solder, but I think brazing or welding is the way to go. Yes, it's a good idea.
    Last edited by gloob; 12-22-2023 at 04:02 PM.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master


    foesgth's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Tustin, CA
    Posts
    521
    I don't know what kind of rifle you are going to put this on, but here is an idea. Can't you cut a new dovetail farther back on the barrel. They are not too hard to cut by hand there is a thread on it on this site. I have a small bench to mill and it is less than 30 min to cut one.
    Remember the Law of Probability - The probability of being watched is directly proportional to the stupidity of your act.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy Lostinidaho's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    241
    I could cut a new dovetail. But I am just trying to keep a cleaner look.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    4,677
    I know what you mean.
    You are trying a new sight.
    You are not sure you will like it.
    So why modify the barrel to fit it , then maybe decide it isn't the sight you wanted.
    Then you end up with a scar on your barrel if you put the original sight back on.
    I have made the same decisions and stayed happy with my work.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    372
    I've bought and installed those on 3 of my rifles, they sell them in two lengths, I always get the longer ones from Midway, 2.75" the shorter ones are 1.875", what size is the one you have?
    https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1828132532?pid=132532
    "People in Arizona carry guns," said Detective David Ramer, a Chandler police spokesman. You better be careful about who you are picking on...

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,563
    I believe that I would cut it in the middle of the wide portion add in the strip needed then machine or bend up a c channel to fit snugly over the 2 joints from the base forward and not only solder the joint but also the channel on to reinforce the butt joints you formed. It wouldnt have to be very thick steel something .015-.030 thick would stiffen and hide the 2 joints. Also forming the butt joints with a "skived edge " ( angled from top to bottom) will increase strength. With the channel cover the joints will only show from the bottom. fitting the channel in to the base snug and past the farthest joint the modification will only show from the bottom

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check