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Thread: What for .308?

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy iwottopq's Avatar
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    What for .308?

    Hello to all.
    But...but...what brass to form for .308 caliber? Beyond that 5,7x28 of course...
    Thanks
    Ciao
    Nino

  2. #2
    Boolit Master



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    iwottopq:


    Three ideas for you:

    (1) Corbin makes a Swage Die set to convert 9mm to jackets (or .380, or 9mm Kurz, or 9x21's ...) for .308 caliber swaged bullets. I have done this and it's "OK" for projectiles; but by no means compares accuracy wise to my Swaging .308's from 5/16" copper tubing. Not sure if in Italy you can get those dies; but it is an option to look into. There is a "Learning Curve" to this process. One draw back is that the base tends to get skewed at an angle; but I discovered a means of avoiding this with another cheap product to use while swaging the 9mm's down. If you decide to go that way; I can go in more depth for that technique. Link to their product: https://www.swagedies.com/mm5/mercha...ry_Code=jmkits

    (2) One can make .308 jackets for swaging .308's by sizing 5.56/.223 cases down incrementally in steps to form a .307/.308 tube. I use NOE bushings to do this in steps. After the tube is formed; use a mini pipe cutter to cut the Jacket to size.

    (3) One can make 147/150 gr. FMJ's (Open tip) from .22 WMR brass cases. There will be a small % loss of cases in fabrication. Also; an exposed lead tip can be made from same up to ~175 grains. I wrote a thread on this site; can be found at: https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...ill&highlight=

    If either works for you, some postings on this site concerning this; and you can always touch base with me and I'll share my experiences.

    Best wishes and Merry Christmas/Happy New Year.
    Mustang

    "In the beginning... the patriot is a scarce man, and brave and hated and scorned. When his cause succeeds, the timid join him, for then it costs nothing to be a patriot." - Mark Twain.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    Mustang, if you are you using a Corbin. Are you using a S press or an H?

  4. #4
    Boolit Master



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    Quote Originally Posted by Ajax111 View Post
    Mustang, if you are you using a Corbin. Are you using a S press or an H?
    Mine is an early "S" Press.

    Some of my Jacket forming from Brass Cases (i.e. 9mm and .223 cases) I use a modified forming process. Attempting to form some cases is almost or impossible in a single pass. I have created a "Witness Mark" on the top punch die to allow me to see where the threads are (Single or double scratched line from center to outside edge of the top punch). I can then count the depth of the Top punch screwed into the threads. I will partially see the case down; turn the top punch down, size again, turn the top punch down, size again, etc... until I have the case drawn down. This is surprisingly repeatable and does produce accurate results.

    This is a time consuming process; but allows me to use my existing presses/tools to achieve the jacket making without over stressing the dies or even worse getting a piece of brass stuck in a die. (Of course if I am taking a brass case down quite a bit; I may use multiple dies (I.e. multiple NOE Boolit Sizing dies for reducing the Brass in multiple steps).
    Mustang

    "In the beginning... the patriot is a scarce man, and brave and hated and scorned. When his cause succeeds, the timid join him, for then it costs nothing to be a patriot." - Mark Twain.

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
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    Thank you, I have an early S press. I have been putting off buying the dies, because of the questions.
    This helps me understand how it can be done and not mess up the press or the dies.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master



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    Quote Originally Posted by Ajax111 View Post
    Thank you, I have an early S press. I have been putting off buying the dies, because of the questions.
    This helps me understand how it can be done and not mess up the press or the dies.
    Send me a PM when you get ready to start (some Corbin products are taking months to arrive) and I'll correspond to help get you started.
    Mustang

    "In the beginning... the patriot is a scarce man, and brave and hated and scorned. When his cause succeeds, the timid join him, for then it costs nothing to be a patriot." - Mark Twain.

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy
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    Thank you for the offer. At this time, I have no idea when. It seems like every time you start on a great project, life gets in the way

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy iwottopq's Avatar
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    Hello to all.
    Thanks to all for the replies.
    The Corbin products are so hard to find in Italy. They are non imported and the buy in USA is so expensive.
    Thanks again.
    Ciao
    Nino

  9. #9
    Boolit Bub
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    I also like to add that with jackets being made with cartridge brass, you are limited in design with what you can make with cartridge brass, for instance you cannot form a rebated boattail for those kind of jackets, the head stamp is too thick and unable to form, just a heads up.

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy dimaprok's Avatar
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    Using 5.7x28 cases is most simple way if you don't have commercial jackets. Anneal it with torch, size it to .306, expand or trim mouth, wet tumble it and the jacket is ready. These shot ok for me, around 1.5 MOA for me with light 125gr bullets I made for 300 HAM'R.

    Using brass .223 cases. These were by far most difficult to make. Lots of lathe work involved to trim the solid end off and trim to length, but I was using scrap brass which was going to scrap yard so it felt good to make good use of it. Four different sizing steps and jacket coming out crooked, and more fixing on the lathe the jackets look pretty. Now the swaging part I hit some major stumbling blocks. First, seating oversized lead core is a lot more difficult then I though and during point forming the pin kept getting stuck but I figured why later. I haven't shot these 150 - 155gr yet but they look descent.

    Using 9mm cases (berdan primer). Sizing was easier, I turned the rim down to .330 and there was less distortion too during sizing. I haven't made any bullet yet from it but primer came out during sizing unlike 5.7 cases and now there is a large cavity so not sure how much its going to effect accuracy. Also depending on how you size it, on the first try using .307 push through rod it was very difficult to size down to .358 but the length grew considerably! In the end I ended up with .950" long jacket which should be enough for 125 - 135gr. Using a smaller push through rod it grew but ended up between .850 and .900" long which probably is good for 115 - 125gr max. I haven't swaged the bullets yet with it.

    Using copper tubing. This has far exceeded my expectations. When thinking of tubing I imagine some crude bullet could be made but in fact it produced very nice factory looking bullets. These jackets came with my dies when I purchased it. At 50 yards 4 bullets went into the same hole and the 5th one opened up but still was sub MOA.
    Last edited by dimaprok; 05-23-2024 at 03:20 PM.

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy dimaprok's Avatar
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    And here's what they look like.
    5.7 jacket, swaged on my SAS dies. The rest were swaged by Corbin dies.

    Tubing jackets in 3 different stages. I had to straighten the rounded end by running a .250 flat punch in to the core seating die which produced a flat base.

    .223 jacket. The top 3 have been sized to .334" from inside and the bottom 2 have the final sized to .308 which causes a lip, I'll have to change the final sizing at smaller step to avoid that.

    .223 case that I cut off the base with a primer pocket, .140" off seems to work.

    9mm with rim that cut off to the groove, about .330 in diameter. The longer one on the right has been sized to .358 with .307 punch from inside and it stretched considerably.

    Final bullets from .223 jackets.

    a batch of bullets from tubing, 125gr that have been wet tumbled.

    300 HAM'R rounds loaded and tested.


    Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
    Last edited by dimaprok; 06-04-2024 at 06:03 PM.

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy
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    What magnificent work. Congratulations!

  13. #13
    Boolit Man
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    Those tubing jackets are by far the easiest and they look great. Good job Dimaprok. Another problem with using any brass other than 57 for 308 bullets is that you end up with a big chunk of solid brass at the base which makes interior weight distribution eccentric even if you straighten the exterior bottom. This limits accuracy severely. Using any fired brass case can cause this problem, and the more it has to be reduced, the more pronounced the eccentric weight distribution can become. If the brass starts out close to correct size, like the 57, its not too bad. Of course handgun bullets are not as big a problem because you are generally not looking for sub MOA accuracy. This same weight distribution concentricity problem also becomes an issue reducing lead bullet diameters more than .004 from original diameter or jacketed bullets more than .008 from original diameter. Powerful swaging presses will do it, but the accuracy will suffer.

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy dimaprok's Avatar
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    Thanks guys! I did a bit more experimentation with .223 jackets and was able to produce bullets that didn't stick in forming die. I think my die doesn't like it at all if there is more lead in the jacket then the length of the jacket allows to close. I started with 1.070" jackets that weighted around 60 grains and added 90gr core, end result was 150gr bullet. Next time I'll keep it longer around 1.100"

    I also worked with 9mm jackets and decided to trim to shortest one I had which was only .865", I decided to make 120gr bullet. I don't know why but all 5 bullets stuck in the point forming die! I tried to go in 1/4 turns and a couple showed that lead was being expelled, but a few didn't and as I kept pushing the punch deeper and I could feel the handle push was strong they would rupture and I had to remove them in my lathe.

    I think I can try making a lighter 110gr next time.

    Jackets did look pretty.

  15. #15
    Boolit Mold
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    What would be needed to make a flat point? As for a tube magazine rifle.

  16. #16
    Boolit Man
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    Spoon,
    You can get a point form die made for flat points, I have one in 375. You can also use a die made for spitzers and just push the core halfway into the die. The flat nose won't look quite as uniform, but it will work. Weight will be consistent.

  17. #17
    Boolit Mold
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    Thanks. Have some looking to do.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check